Anti Seize & Electrical Conductivity
#1
Anti Seize & Electrical Conductivity
While cleaning the ground points I wanted to add a bit of anti seize to the bolts on reassembly - especially in the lower engine. I know that the copper anti seize is electrically conductive (says so on mfg site), but the "grey" anti seize (http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...ubricant_a.htm ) makes no mention of electrical conductivity.
The ground strap from the bottom of the engine looks to connect to aluminum (engine side) and brass (frame side) so I am wondering if people use the "grey" (for aluminum) version with success on the ground points.
Also, I noticed that in past service, people have applied a generous amount of antiseize (grey) to the outside of the bolt and the surrounding area. Common practice?
Thanks,
Dave
The ground strap from the bottom of the engine looks to connect to aluminum (engine side) and brass (frame side) so I am wondering if people use the "grey" (for aluminum) version with success on the ground points.
Also, I noticed that in past service, people have applied a generous amount of antiseize (grey) to the outside of the bolt and the surrounding area. Common practice?
Thanks,
Dave
#2
Anti-seize is generally a poor conductor of electricity as the metal content is relatively low thus the effective contact area is minimal. Electrically conductive grease might be a better choice?
http://www.cool-amp.com/?gclid=CIbxy...FULNKgodyV6Rnw
http://www.cool-amp.com/?gclid=CIbxy...FULNKgodyV6Rnw
#3
If the anti-sieze/grease is doing any conducting you haven't torqued the bolts sufficiently - you will have good direct metal to metal conduction - I wouldn't worry about it... use any type you like.
Alan
Alan
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#9
Actually, I am concerned about the opposite...I have had many seized bolts in my car, so each time I have access to one I want to do what I can to prevent stuck bolts in the future. My "favorite" would have to be broken cam cover bolt I had to drill out