txhokie4life

Just purchased an '82 Euro 928S with 120K on the clock.
This is my first 928, but I have several other Porsches (too many
really -- time to thin the herd!)

I know one of the more recent owners and within the last year
the following (if not more) has been done.

WP/TB/ALT/Brakes/Tires

Picked it up and drove it about 30 miles home. No major issues.
I think it needs a brake booster, and the H20 gauge is INOP,
voltage showed a consistent 12v, feels a little low,
but everything else seemed decent.

Wondering if there is anything from a Euro perspective I should be
on the look out for aside from what I have read about the USA
versions.

Plan is to make this a daily driver. Just moved offices to
a lot of stop and go traffic which was already driving me nuts
in my Boxster S 6 speed. I know if might be a waste -- but
looking forward to the AT tomorrow morning :-)

I have access to a shop, have a little mechanical skills myself,
and have a shop partner that is a whiz and although no 928 experience,
has worked on most other Porsches.

Cheers,

Mike
time to update the sig!

James Bailey

The volt meter is not very accurate they often read low but the car never runs out of juice. Note that as a Euro the speedometer odometer was changed. If it is a Euro S and still has that engine it is the 300 HP rather sought after engine. It does want higher octane fuel and the ignition advance is greater. With any 30 year old car the fuel lines are suspect. Check out how they modified the exhaust to add a cat often they necked it down into a cheap small cat just to meet the law.

docmirror

Welcome to the dark side. Typical faults, vac leaks and electrical problems. read the FAQ at the top, and clean the grounds, and the fuse assembly.

Have fun.

soontobered84

This Thread Is........

pcar928fan

USELESS...

BTW, Mike has posted here and I have been helping him in his 928 quest, but if I had known the new owner of the car he bought was going to let it go so cheap, I would have beat him to this one! This may be the deal of the year and it is only the 6th of January! May even be a better deal in the long run than my EURO85, but that remains to be seen!

Car is a VERY STRONG RUNNER and quite beautiful too! I have seen it many times. Makes a nice noise too!

danglerb

Engine controls are pretty much the same as the US 78/79 CIS cars, with a couple different parts to accommodate the 300 vs 220 hp. Bad gas can wreck the motor via detonation, so only keep the good stuff in it, and plan on putting in plenty the CIS especially the Euro S tends to use a lot of fuel.

Some argument about whether or not the pre 84 Euro S is interference or not, but timing belt failure at least "sometimes" does result in valve damage, so first thing I would do is inspect all the work the previous owner did on the timing belt and water pump.

Other than the engine its pretty much the same as the US early 928 S that started in 1983.

928mac

Without pictures

slide under and loosen the pinch bolt on the drive shaft.
If it goes bang, you will need to have the oil pan removed and check the thrust bearings.

search TBF

Good luck with the car and congrats

soontobered84

Brad,
Unless someone has removed the circlips from the TT that were put in place at the factory until MY '85, TBF is not generally an issue on the older cars, therefore flex plate release is generally not needed.

txhokie4life

In my feabil defense,

I have been pouring through all the forums, and the FAQs and the whatever
other information that I can obtain. I even visited the great 928 curator James Morrison :-)

I specifically wanted to know if there were anything peculiar to the Euros that
I needed to be aware of.

I had not found much that had said they were basically the same (with the FI exception) -- or at least
not that blatently about it.

BTW, should I be concerned about high levels of ethanol and the CIS FI system? Is there anything
practical I can do?

thank you for your feedback -- and I'll be honest -- it never hurts to repeat some
of the basics as some of the issues like TB and TBF are very important.

some day maybe I can be carbon neutral on the 928 information front -- but
even having been a part of several M96 engine rebuild projects, and tearing the entire interior out and
back in a Boxster -- I'm barely neutral there.

thanks folks,

Mike

Alan

Check the running voltage with a real voltmeter - if its really 12v - your alternator is dead and you won't get very far. It may just be a gauge reading low issue - but be sure.

You can connect to the battery jump post in the engine compartment - pass side fender wall ahead of the shock mount - with plastic cover secured by plastic nut if its still there. You need to be looking for well over 13v for cold idle.

Alan

txhokie4life

I noticed closer to 13 today on the gauge -- will check the DVM soon.

Alan: BTW, like you sig --
I call myself a transistor wrangler by trade :-) (IC Chip Designer)

mike

Alan

I too am a long time IC designer... However I believe it was Randy V (Super Moderator Emeritius... etc etc) who bestowed the 'Electron Wrangler' title upon me...

So you are in the Silicon Hill Country of Texas...

Alan