aaddpp

I have two Bosch clips that are damaged and require replacement - a two way and a three way. I have the appropriate replacement clips, but I have a questions about assembly. There is some sort of orange semi-elastic adhesive - visible above / below the black shrink wrap. Wondering what this is and whether anyone has used this in the reassembly process.

Note, preserving the length of wire for the #7 fuel injector required a dremel with a cutting blade to free the wire from the glue like material as well as to release the clip. I nicked the wire sheathing a touch in one area, but will use some shrink wrap to tidy things back up.

Thanks,
Dave

depami

It is hot melt glue. You can get heat shrink with it already inside.

aaddpp

Thanks, just ordered some covers with adhesive. Any chance extra adhesive is used...what you see was also able to bond to the outer cone shaped cover preventing easy removal. Credit to who ever put this together...even after 23 years, it was still solidly together.

Dave

pjg

EagleDay sells the connector kits: http://www.eagleday.com/ampconnectors.html

aaddpp

Interesting they don't have any sort of glue or wire shrink wrap as part of the kits. Guess they just go with crimping.

Thanks,
Dave

hacker-pschorr

That "glue" is not factory and not necessary nor would I recommend anyone do that.

I recently re-built the harness in my 81 with all new AMP / Tyco connectors with the weatherpac style seal.
With the proper crimp too there is no need to solder or use any glue, gel, cream, paste.....you get the idea.
With the weatherpac style seal, no need for any boot or tape either.

Eagle-a-day is a bit expensive. I ordered some of these and Todd is using them on his car:
http://www.amazon.com/Holley-534-112...4182433&sr=8-3

IMO this is one maintenance item and DIY projects that doesn't get much press: replacing every connector on a 30 year old car.

This is one of the crimp tools I use & the best one for Weatherpac connectors

http://www.amazon.com/Caspers-103021...2&sr=8-1-spell

ammonman

EagleDay also sells a nice pair of terminal extraction tools that allow you to remove the terminals from many different connectors without any cutting. The pair is $50 or more but have saved me much time and aggravation.

Mike

depami

The Weather-Pack connector is not bad, but the Metri-Pack is better. The Metri-Pack 150 is ideal for many applications in these cars.

Some heat shrink has no glue, some does and some has more. You can even get "glue tube" to put inside heat shrink. Heat shrink with glue has its place but I think the connector you pictured would have better off without it.

The above mentioned connectors are acctually a GM product and are available here http://order.waytekwire.com/cgi-bin/...EBID(S0020):01 among other places.

hacker-pschorr

The connectors I linked to above have the "pull-to-seat" style seal like these:
http://whiteproducts.com/pull-to-seat.shtml

The Tyco / Amp connectors I use have the same seal as these:
http://whiteproducts.com/sealed630.shtml

Which is the same "plug" as the weatherpac's.

Wich Metri-Pack are you referring to?

fraggle

+1 on the connector tools. Spendy while being priceless. I don't know how many connectors I wrecked over the years for all sorts of stuff before I got them.

KenRudd

Been watching this link with interest for two reasons:
1. Because I just had to replace my crank sensor due to a crumbled plug and I know the other similar connectors are only a matter of time;
2. I was hoping to find a source for just the metal retaining clips, of which several have disappeared into a black hole and have been replaced by creative, but inadequate, replacements.

depami

I am referring to your first link but in the "push to seat" version.

Pull to seats have there place but I find them a bit of a PITA for under the hood use. You have to have the wire through the housing before you crimp and that can sometimes (most times) be a BIG PITA.

The push to seat is much more user friendly. Simply crimp all the ends and then plug into the housing.

The pull to seats do have the advantage of not "unseating" when the connector halves are mated but if the "TPA" (terminal position assurance) is used on the push to seat that is not really a problem.

The Weather-Pack is a round terminal where the Metri-Pack is flat (square).

The round is easier to insert as you do not have to "twist" the wire to line up the terminal. But that isn't such a big deal on six pin or less connecters. On ten pin, production workers do complain about "finger fatigue".

The Metri-Pack is very durable where as the Weather-Pack is prone to "terminal deformation" due to careless mating of connector halves.

In the Metri-Pack series, the 150, 630, etc. refers to blade width. The 150 male pins are 1.5 mm wide and 630 male pins are 6.3 mm wide. They have different current capacities and the 150 should be good for most 928 under hood electronics.

I believe these connectors to be GM by origine and were perhaps Delco at one time but I think are now Delphi.

As far as I know, Tyco was formerly Amphenol which has nothing to do with Weather-Pack nor Metri-Pack.

Sorry to be so verbose or sound like an ***, just bored tonight.

P.S. Thanks for those links, I was not aware of those sources.

ammonman

Ken,

EagleDay can supply replacement wire retainers for the 2 Pole AMP connectors.

Mike

KenRudd

Cool! What about the bigger ones, like the MAF connector? I'm going to stock up...
EDIT:
I see this on their page:

Clip for 2-Pole Female AMP Junior Timer Housing
These steel clips ensure the tightness of the AMP connector connection and help avoid many puzzling electrical gremlins. They are rare and expensive when needed as a standalone part but in the end cheaper than an entire new connector or a trip to the shop. Price is a for a pack of 2 clips.
ECK-099$3.95

And although I am amused at $3.95 for two bent pieces of wire, I'm not shocked and I do need them.

I'll call to see if the have other sizes, and post my results for other who may be in the same boat.

aaddpp

I'm surprised the glue is not placed by the factory...so many of my clips are assembled in the same manner. Nice clips you link to...if I do a complete rebuild, these are definitely under strong consideration. I suppose you could recreate the entire harness with enough wire and these clips...


I saw a video online where someone used a dental probe to release the metallic clips from the plastic housing. I picked up a set on Amazon for about $6.50 and it worked very well on the new clips. As bonus, the probes had several other shapes (besides straight) that will come in handy in other parts of the car.

Thanks for the links...bookmarked for the future.

Dave