Dave928S

Oops .. Quite right!! ..... Intake runner = intake valve. I should have read a bit more carefully .... water on intake valve would point to a cracked head. He wouldn't' have even seen an exhaust valve ... duh.

IcemanG17

chocolate milk oil is NEVER good.....odd compression is still good, but the car runs bad...I agree with Stan that its probably the head or headgasket....

Hkp7

Thanks for everyones input, the engine should be out by Saturday. Hope its not a cracked head. My work has a magnaflux if I cant see anything.

danglerb

The 1 ton at HF works dandy, but I would check around your area to see anybody has one you can borrow. I live in SoCal and would be happy to loan mine to anybody local, as long as they keep it until I or the next local person needs it.

Hkp7

I am borrowing one from one of the guys at work. But I still need an engine stand. I will probably check Harbor Freight for that. How heavy is the 928 engine?

Opelotus

I think the dry weight is somewhere around 500+ (correct me if I'm wrong, thought I read that somewhere). Also I tought magnaflux will only work on cast iron heads as aluminum is not magnetic? We used the dye method at school.

Hkp7

I didnt think they were 100 percent aluminum. Isnt the block made of a special aluminum alloy due to no sleeves in cylinders?

Dave928S

286KG or 268 ... can't remember which ... which equates to 550 to 600lbs.

You need a good stand with a wide stance so it won't tip, and when you have it first bolted up, before anything has been removed; you need to provide some front support using the engine hoist, or cut a bit of timber as a prop. It seems a bit scarily flexible with a complete engine on a stand, and the support makes it more stable to work on.

Make sure you've loosened the crank pulley nut before you get it on the stand so you don't have to heave on it, and loosen the cam gear nuts as well. Take the fly wheel off as well before the engine is bolted to the stand as the support points at the rear get in the way of removal later.

Dave928S

The block is Alusil which is a silicon alloy. The honing process used after boring leaves an exposed wear surface in the bores of silicon particles, which the rings and wear surfaces of the pistons ride on.

Benton

Bill... glad to hear you may have finally found the problem.

danglerb

HF engine stand basically same as all the cheap ones other places sell, do NOT get the one with a T shaped base, get the H shape, which is rated 1000 lbs or something like that.

Locate a set of the long bolts in the size you need for bolting to the stand. The head has like 4 inch pipes the bolts need reach through to the bellhousing etc.

Remove the "head" from the stand and bolt it to the block while the cherry picker is holding it, then lift the stand up a "little" and reattach the head and secure it.

Dave928S

I'll second that .... H base is the ONLY way to go .... or motor will end up on the floor.

blown 87

A fully dressed 4 valve motor is very heavy, it is all my top of the line Snap-On wants, heavier than a BBC with iron Merlin heads.

Hkp7

Cant wait to get to this project. I want to see what failed. Thanks for the advice about the HF engine stand, a guy at work was going to let me borrow his and it is the cheap one. I will just get one to make my shop that much more complete.