Half Shaft Bolts
#17
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#18
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Less energy is lost in the stretch of the 3/4" hardware at the joint..than 1/2".
You end up using force to twist the hardware before the fastener gets all it needs to bust loose itself. The thicker hardware makes it easier to shock the fastener to bust it apart because there's less spring to work against.
You end up using force to twist the hardware before the fastener gets all it needs to bust loose itself. The thicker hardware makes it easier to shock the fastener to bust it apart because there's less spring to work against.
#19
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Chris,
Nice to see you use similar methods to me as shown in your post #11 and you have my fire extinguisher handy as well.
Use the same extension for the crankshaft bolt.
Keep up the good work of keeping the 928 going.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
Nice to see you use similar methods to me as shown in your post #11 and you have my fire extinguisher handy as well.
Use the same extension for the crankshaft bolt.
Keep up the good work of keeping the 928 going.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
#20
Rest in Peace
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Go with a 3/4, if you luck out you may be able to find a good Snap-On on Ebay, there is a difference.
I bought a 3/4 drive torque wrench last week, and Snap-On has changed the head since I bought my 3/4 set years ago, sucked that i had to buy a new head for the torque wrench.
I bought a 3/4 drive torque wrench last week, and Snap-On has changed the head since I bought my 3/4 set years ago, sucked that i had to buy a new head for the torque wrench.
#21
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Jacks also work really well under the handle end of a breaker bar instead of the hernia inducing manual method.
IIRC it was Tony Harkin that reported on the email forum some years ago that he got his hub nuts undone by jacking up the breaker handle until the wheel was just off the ground then jumped up and down in the hatch to shock the nut free. Far safer way as the only stored energy is that of the car being a few inches off the ground.
#22
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Never realised there was fire risk undoing the hub nuts LOL