UKKid35

Even though I've done this job a couple of times, I'm still struggling to find an easy way to counterhold the axle. Any suggestions?

I've also decided that it's probably possible to remove half shafts without disturbing the suspension pin, although I think the discs do need to be removed.

Speedtoys

E-brake?

But..you have an 87.


With the car on the ground, remove the jesus nut (jesus its tight), might have to lower the exhaust some..but..just unbolt it from the diff, and should come right out.

Imo000

I've removed the right CV axle on an '89 without taking anything off the suspension, even the tire stayed on. I Popped the cnetre cap on the rim to remove the axle nut and used the parking brake to remove the axle bolts. Then the entire unit slid out.

UKKid35

It wouldn't have occurred to me to even try that!

Speedtoys

Go HERE.




Lots to learn from Dwayne.


Ta ta.

UKKid35

My first attempt to undo the nut (this time) was nearly two months ago with my gf pressing the brake pedal. I pulled a muscle in my back and nearly passed out with the pain. Took two weeks to recover. It's the first time I've really hurt myself working on the car.

I left the car for two months before trying again, except this time I stood on the cheater bar and jumped up and down, rather than try to lift it.

Speedtoys

*nods*

Ya..thats the problem..lifting 1-2 your body weight leaning over...fail.


Ive got this 8' bar I use to to bust jesus nuts on rotary crankshafts. Ive had my 280lbs sitting on the end bouncing up and down a few feet before the ear shattering snap happens...ahhh.

Gobs of static torque holding those on.

Imo000

Unless the breaker bar is only 1ft long, you are not lifting that much.

Tails

I use an 8ft length of steel water pipe on a 3/4" sliding "T" handled socket bar on the wheel half shaft nuts with the car on the ground, hand brake on and with the auto in "P".

Never pull the the extension bar downwards from over your head, alway push downwards away from you body using your body weight.

As a guide I centre pop the half shaft and the nut, to mark the position and when I have reinstalled the half shaft I re-torque the nut up to the centre pop marks with my special pipe and then take it to my friend's garage and torque it up with a torque wrench to specification requirement, IIRC 330 ft lbs.

After the nut is loose you can remove the allen headed setbolts holding the half shaft flanges to the output shaft flanges from the gear box, by jacking the car up and resting the rear on jackstands.

To undo the set bolts I hold their position again with the handbrake on and the Auto Box in "P".

Tails 1990 928S4 Auto

Speedtoys

The force required to losen a 300FtLb nut, is much more than 300FtLbs.


For most people, hunched over a foot from the ground is a dangerous way to lift a heavy load.

Landseer

3/4 inch drive is better than 1/2

UKKid35

First time I had to remove the hubs I drove to a local garage and paid them a fiver to loosen the hub nuts with their 3/4" drive breaker bar, then drove home. Subsequently I bought a 2'6" breaker bar 1/2" drive for about £25. At the time the best price I could find for a 3/4" drive breaker bar was 3 or 4 times as much, although now I can find them for the same price. Since the 1/2" breaker bar can stand my bodyweight with ease, I can't see any advantage in the 3/4" for now.

Landseer

Sounds like you have it under control.
2 sheared for me.
Entire 3/4" drive set with ratchet and breaker bar, extensions and a dozen sockets was on sale for $47.
Worth having if you find a deal like that.

I need to find a local shop that can torque them. We did 5 cars here by putting 50 lbs weight at about 6.5 feet from the socket.

UKKid35

I'm just about the only person who advocates the starter motor method of undoing the crank bolt, so much easier than pulling on a scaffolding pole.

WallyP

I don't understand the physics, but a 3/4" extension and pull bar seem to remove a tough fastener more easily than the same length 1/2" drive tools.