jwillman

I discovered that the PO (I assume) had previous tried to get the lower ball joint nut off and rounded it off a bit. I tried some PB blaster but the rounding is not allowing a 12 point cloed end wrench to get a good grip. There is not enough clearance above to get a socket on the nut.

Any recommendations on tools that can grip this rounded nut well enough to get it off? Hate to thiunk about tryinmg to cut it off as there is little room and don't want to risk damaging the hub.

Thanks

Rob Edwards

If you're R&R'ing the ball joint and don't care about it or the nut:

Dave928S

It's simple and safer to take off the hub/disc to give you enough room to safely attack the nut if you're having trouble removing it. Unbolt the caliper and hang with some wire so the line isn't strained, then remove the hub/disc. You can try with a pipe wrench (stilsons) as the nut is already stuffed and that may get it off .... if not, you have enough room to use a grinder or sawzall to cut it off without damaging anything. Edit: or nut splitter as Rob has pictured above.

It doesn't take too long to remove the caliper and hub/disc, and you then have the best chance of removing the nut without getting too destructive.

If you leave it on it'll probably end in tears

UncleMaz

Dr. Rob recommends busting a nut for total satisfaction.

jwillman

I am replacing the old aluminum ball joints with steel and assume the hardware can be found locally so this is an option.

I found the nut splitters on Autozone and HF web sites so I hope I can pick them up tomorrow.

Thanks

mark kibort

large vice grips and hammer

928 at last

And prudently applied heat is your friend.
I'm a BIG fan of the torch for stubborn fastening devices.

Tails

Craftman nut removal sockets, similar to easy outs except it will fit over the nut and cut into as it is reversed spiral conical shape.

There is referenced to this type of nut removal tool on this forum. Or you can use a hexigonal socket (impact drive socket).

Tails 1990 928S4 Auto

jpitman2

Try a single hex ring spanner (gets a better grip on the nut face), and if available, see if there is an Inch size that is a TIGHT fit on the metric nut - if it needs to be hammered on, it shouldnt slip. I have also used a drift at an angle into one of the split pin slots to shock them loose.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k

James Bailey

Translation...A "drift" is a chisel and when used with a big enough hammer will spin the nut loose...

jpitman2

Ahhh.. to me a drift is not the same as a chisel. A cold chisel (for chiselling metal) has a hard blade end, and a softer back end where you hit it, where a drift is usually at leats blunt, if not flat on the end. The dange of using a cold chisel here is you could slice pieces off a nut, especially a castellated one. A blunt ended drift is more likely to imart energy into the nut rather than cut into it. Drifts are sometimes also referred to as punches. You might use a drift to remove or replace a bearing race in a hub, but I suspect a chisel would not be appropriate.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k

soontobered84

+1

jwillman

Used the drift trick today and got the nut off. The nut splitter was to large to fit in the space and there is not enough vertical clearance above the nut to get a socket on the nut. One down and the other side tomorrow. Hopefully an easier job!!

Thanks for the input.

mark kibort

i was going to say, "dremel it off"?
glad you got it! feels good don't it!