FLYVMO

Got the fenders unpacked and checked, no dents or bent metal, so all is good. Picture of the passenger side fender, ROW version with no side marker and no rub strip holes.

One interesting aspect of the fender is that the lip is rolled, just like the GT's, even though the fender itself has much more room for wide wheels.

Second picture is the roof panel "test fit" to mark the points in the rear to cut. Front section is easy to spot, and a fairly straight line, but the rear is a bit more complex shape.

Cheers!
Carl

Orantes

The MOMO wheel went on perfectly Carl. Looks like it was grown there!

I'm trying to track down a Porsche logo for the horn pad to finish it off.

Podguy

When I did the roof panel it was a replacement and not a sun roof delete. We had to work a couple pieces of the frame but I was surprised how easily the new panel fit in place. The worst of it is the primer reacted with the final paint job and cause the paint to peel off in long strips. Had to finally remove the factory primer and repaint it.

I had thought of adding a sunroof at the time but I could not find a used one and the cost of a new one was way out of the question.

There is not much on the non sun roof panel. There was a half inch piece of insulation that was supposed to provide sound proofing. Not much good when it rains. Lots of pinging on the metal roof.

I suppose today using glue is the way to go. I am not up on the most modern practices of using panel glues. There are some issues with welding on modern cars. The frames are unibody as with the porsche but the newer cars are pretemptered. Thus applying too much heat to a modern unibody can weaken the frame and make the car less safe in a crash.

I do not think this is an issue with the 928. We did a lot of gas welding with produces some heat, but these days with a good mig welder you can control the welds and not create too much heat. I would not use glue on the roof - just call me old fashion and paranoid. I would use some sealer once the new roof was welded in place to take out any possibilities of squeeks.

I added more insulation to the roof.

Keep up the good work. Today we put the primed the headlight bases- for the third time. The first time the primer did not stick. The second time I think the materials were a little old and it did not harden. I have had a bit of trouble with older two part paints recently. After a complete stripping the second time we primed the headlight bases a third time. Maybe Sunday they will get color and I can finally put the headlight system together. Be careful with things like the headlight bases, mirrors and other cast parts. For some reason they do not take to paint very well.

jmartins

Very nice project ! Keep moving !!!!

I know how hard is a project like that. It takes time, money and a lot of patience. I made a project like this for a Ford Maverick 76 was 3 years of hard working and it's not finished yet.

Congratulations, IMHO you are at right direction !

Benton

I get excited every time I see this post back at the top! It's really exciting knowing that chassis is going to be reborn, along with many other parts I supplied. Thanks, Carl!

FLYVMO

Hey Mark! Thanks for all the help getting it down to me, and for the great help and service!

Cheers!
Carl

FLYVMO

Dan,

Thanks for the great info, much appreciated!

Did the primer lift from the headlights? If so, sounds like perhaps some acid was present on the part. Or perhaps incompatible components.

Cheers!
Carl

FLYVMO

Thank you, I appreciate the encouragement. A 928 in Rio? Haven't been there in ages, do you have some good roads to take the 928 on?

Cheers!
Carl

Podguy

The problem parts were the head light metal bases. The plastic covers were no problem. The bases are hard to strip. I used a chemical and then the blast cabinet. Even then there was some sanding. I used a SEM DTM two part primer which stuck very well. Then when I added a lacquer based primer there was a reaction and the paint just peeled off. I am not sure if the SEM is incompatible with lacquer products. I did not have the same problem with it on other surfaces or with the DTM from the Restoration Shop. This time I went old school and just started with a lacquer primer. I will let you know when we apply some paint.

The parts that are giving me trouble are cast parts. Everything else is no real problem. The 928 is made of so many different materials and each on has to be handled differently.

I have had a rash of paint reaction stuff with old two part solid colors. They do not catalyize - I am thinking they are just too old.

Keep up the good work

FLYVMO

Another quick project update:

Doors have been disassembled, stripped and primed. Having had some Dynamat sound insulation that was nearly impossible to remove, I stumbled across a tool at Harbor Freight which made it a breeze. It is a heated razor blade scraper, very inexpensive ($13.00) but easily cut through the very sticky butyl rubber.

After the doors were stripped I did find areas with a ton of body filler, and got very worried that the doors had previously been dented, but it turns out that some idiot had used a grinding tool to remove the paint in the past, and got too aggressive on some parts. To hide it, they had packed on a lot of filler, and the scratches can be seen in the center of the bare door panel. Fortunately the door skin is otherwise in perfect shape, so the high-build primer should not have any problems filling out the scratches.

Last picture shows one of the doors drying after the second coat of epoxy primer. Not much else accomplished, but still hoping to have the car ready for the paint shop my mid summer.

Cheers!
Carl

slate blue

That's looking nice Carl, lots of work there, is that primer an etch or high build? I agree high build is a good choice for the deep scratches and I know there has been a lot of progress on primers and paints etc, normally you would need an etch primer first on the alloy and sometimes with a deoxidene depending on the paint company. I know DuPont needs a deoxidene and it leaves a nice golden color over the bare metal. Just wanted to let you know just in case you weren't aware. What brand of paint are using for this job?

Greg

FLYVMO

Greg,

Thanks, I appreciate the tips. I'm starting to realize just how much prep-work a proper paint job takes...but it is fun

It is a true 1:1 epoxy primer (KPCF2) by House of Kolor, and while it has etching properties, it is not a true etching primer. House of Kolor warns against using acid based etching products as it can cause loss of adhesion with their paint system. It is a high build primer,very flexible, even at high mils. I have been using about 8% reducer to make it flow easier (max 10% recommended), and use a HVLP gun with 1.8mm tip for larger objects and 1.4mm for smaller objects.

It will be covered by their KD3001 black sealer/surfacer (multiple colors to choose from) which is a hybrid epoxy/urethane product that depending on mixing ratio can be either a surfacer or sealer. That in turn will be covered by the base coat (S2-25 jet black) and then the urethane clear coat (USC01) with a red pearl effect. All products used are House of Kolor, from pre-sanding to post-sanding.

Their new KD3000 surfacer/sealer can be used directly to the metal, but I chose to use the "true" epoxy primer first as it has a slightly better "bite" than the hybrid system. Not sure I will ever be able to tell the difference, but it is peace of mind for me For a shop that needs productivity the KD3000 system allows faster production times and easier sanding, but I am doing only one car so I am not in a rush.

According to the factory literature, Porsche clear coated paints are around 4.7-5.5.mils (fairly thin) whereas the House Of Kolor system can handle over 10 mils (15 mils advertised) without cracking or peeling. Not that I will get anywhere close to that, the finished paint job should come in around 8 mils.

Cheers!
Carl
90GT Project

77tony

Carl, Looking good. RU filling in the door locks to ? T

FLYVMO

Hey Tony,

Yes that is the plan, door locks, side markers and rub strips will be filled in. Since it will be awhile before I can get the locks filled in, the entire door is primed for now to avoid any corrosion issues.
Will be utilizing some aluminum from a spare fender for those larger holes. Only the hatch lock will remain as is. The GTS ROW rear fenders have no holes to worry about, so only the front fender side markers need to be filled in.

Looks like Spring Fling was a success...wish I could have attended. Hopefully next time

Cheers!
Carl
90GT Project

BC

Please take major pictures when you figure out how to put the window seats and metal strips back on.