Landseer

Here's the bowden end / O-ring for the pre-S4 4 speed automatic.

The S4 has a slightly different config and bigger O-ring, but similar.

Fur is Landseer Newfoundland.

Leon Speed

Thanks!

So I gather that is this part?

Bill51sdr

That's it. As stated above it is easier to do with the pan removed, makes it easier to reconnect the cable.

Leon Speed

Ok thanks!

blandis

Ok, still have leak. Upside is does not take me long to pull the pan and button it back up.

Going to pull it apart again and replace o-ring. Is the oring a standard size, or something I need to order from Roger?

Landseer

I ordered it.

Schocki

I had a similar probelm on my GTS. A new pan gasket didn't help at all. Finally I replaced the reservoir cap seal with an o-ring that fits exactly in the cap. The o-ring is type R-27, ID 37,5 mm SD 3,55 mm.

Hand tightened the cap and all is good. Car sits since October not a single drop of ATF on the garage floor. Even new original cap seals like to leak, not a very good design.

Make sure that you check the o-ring between the reservoir and the metal tube of the oil pan too...

the flyin' scotsman

As posted #3 I suggested the union nut/Oring and res. cover/gasket as possible issues. The oring sits inside a plastic nut that screws onto the bottom of the reservoir.

The union nut is #42 in the pic (oring #41)............the reservior cover #37 has its own gasket (#38)

blandis

Thanks to all. Will get the oring and a oring for the cap.

Im open to anything at this point. I dont think it is leaking from above the pan. Have the area clean and see no fluid.

Beads on the pan tab that clips over the pan on the passanger side. Can see fluid wicking from what looks like under the gasket. Shut it off and it drips about the size of a dime.

Will report back once I get it apart and replace everything. May even order a new pan gasket from Roger again. Have had it apart 3 times with this gasket. Think I will also buy a new pan gasket.

borland

Your probably over tightening the pan. If the pan is warped or has crushed pan bolt tabs, replace it with a new one.

The pan has tabs near the bolt holes that limit gasket compression by contacting the bottom of the transmission housing. Over tightening the pan will crush these tabs and over compress the gasket. So the pan should be tightened while watching for contact of these tabs. It's not necessary to compress the gasket all the way to contact of the tabs. The bolts won't work loose if contact is not achieved.

Best to identify the source of the leak by fully degreasing the areas that are wet with transmission fluid, then degrease above those areas. Some water based degreasers have surfactants that change color when contaminated with oil. If you have one of these degreasers, you can wet part of the paper towel with the degreaser, and wipe down a prepviously degreased areas to find the source of any small leaks.

blandis

Torqued gasket to 70 in lbs.

Have tried it from 35 in lbs to 70 and get the same leak. Im guessing it is the pan, may see if Mark has one and swap that as well.

borland

I don't know what amount of torque will result in damage to the pan. If your pan was already damaged from being overtighted, it make little difference what torque you use.

You really shouldn't be using a torque wrench, cause you only need to tighten the pan up until close to, or until metal-to-metal contact is made by the pan tabs with the tranny housing. Otherwise, you run the risk of damaging the pan.

Landseer

Here's another source for leaking.
This picture is of the chamber overflow hose that leads fluid back to the reservoir.
Hose can be cracked.
Lifted this from Dwayne's thread.

the flyin' scotsman

^^^^^^^

Dont how I forgot that one Chris.

That hose also comes loose and leaks...........took me forever to find that one when searching for my tranny leak at the same location. Its very awkward to see and get to........its almost easier to drop the reservoir completely and replace all.

Landseer

On the S3 version of the 4 speed, the reservoir has a different profile. Access is slightly better, not much.
Its difficult, but a pair of long-handled, long nosed pliers, angled at the end, can be useful for manipulating the hose.
Still, easier to remove the reservoir as Malcom indicates.