Lucas Oil Products?
12-09-2010, 01:35 AM
#16
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'74 Ford pickup with automatic - the transmission would drop out of gear while driving. The problem was that the seals had hardened so much that there was enough leakage by the seals that the front clutch wouldn't stay engaged.
Adding transmission stop-leak softened the seals enough that the transmission has worked perfectly for five or six years, including some heavy-duty towing. So I can say that the transmission stop-leak did work in this case, and in several others that I know about.
Adding transmission stop-leak softened the seals enough that the transmission has worked perfectly for five or six years, including some heavy-duty towing. So I can say that the transmission stop-leak did work in this case, and in several others that I know about.
12-09-2010, 04:23 AM
#17
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lucas oil products are lauded by Land Rover sites to stop the power steering boxes leaking. Works a treat, Oz, for bloody good!
Don't confuse them with Lucas electrics!
Don't confuse them with Lucas electrics!
12-09-2010, 08:03 AM
#19
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i use a product called synergyn.we beat the s out of the gear and engine oil under extreme race conditions.it doesn't break down under high temp.it will take you twice as long to pump gear oil in.like molasses.i did use lucas trans fluid in one of my trucks that had a hard shifting trans and it made a huge difference.
12-09-2010, 08:20 AM
#20
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I use what my owner's manual suggests depending on the temp. I can't use a 50 weight oil in the winter, don't want to break a crank. 15w50 or 20w50 doesn't turn over so well at -15. I change the oil to 10w30 when I put it away for winter, that way if I do take it out on a dry, super cold day and it sits all day in the freeze your lug nuts off temps I won't be trying to turn over blackstrap molasses instead of oil. I use the Royal Purple cause I can't get Torco here.
12-09-2010, 10:04 AM
#21
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One shot of the power steering stuff stopped a leak for me. When I get far enough into suspension work to get the rack out I'll have it rebuilt, but in the meantime, see no harm in using a product like this ...
12-09-2010, 11:05 AM
#22
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Do you know where you power steering is leaking?? Both of my OB's leaked at the hose between the reservoir and pump. The next possible leak is the pump itself, there is a reseal kit for ~$25 that is not that difficult to install. If you have the system drained for either of these issues, I suggest replacing the low pressure lines rubber section with bulk hose and a couple clamps. The high pressure hose has to be replaced or rebuilt properly, if needed. If none of these areas are leaking, then it is probably the rack. There is also a reseal kit for the rack. I have never tried it, but from what I have read here there is about a 50/50 chance it will actually work. At those odds, I would just replace with a rebuilt.
12-09-2010, 11:54 AM
#23
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Yeah, in my case, the leak is the rack seal, passenger side. Already replaced all my hoses, so one of the few 928s in existence that are totally dry except for the rack ... lol
12-09-2010, 12:11 PM
#24
Drifting
They are real popular in the drag racing circles… Plus they ponied up $121 million for our football stadium:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Oil_Stadium
That's a whole lot of clams… they MUST be doing SOMETHING right… Marketing is my guess!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Oil_Stadium
That's a whole lot of clams… they MUST be doing SOMETHING right… Marketing is my guess!
12-09-2010, 02:28 PM
#25
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[QUOTE=namasgt;8119034]You need 20W50, some people use Royal Purple 15W50 in DFW area but apparently their oil pressure light came on so they went back to 20W50 RP.
They must have had very worn engines. 15w50 is only thinner than 20w50 at low temps - it's the same when hot, which is when the light can come on at idle.
They must have had very worn engines. 15w50 is only thinner than 20w50 at low temps - it's the same when hot, which is when the light can come on at idle.
12-09-2010, 02:33 PM
#26
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[QUOTE=Hacker-Pschorr;8119054]You don't need the additive, it's not going to hurt anything. I know a couple of engine builders who always dump a bottle of STP (blue bottle) in with every oil change. It's just a thick base stock with a ton of ZDDP."
Well, it might. High concentrations of ZDDP can be as harmful as low ones, as it can have a corrosive effect. According to the literature, the optimum is 1100-1200 ppm. Which just happens to be what Brad Penn and Mobil 1 15w50 contain.
The oil manufacturers have carefully balanced many factors when making the oil, and additives just mess up that balance.
Well, it might. High concentrations of ZDDP can be as harmful as low ones, as it can have a corrosive effect. According to the literature, the optimum is 1100-1200 ppm. Which just happens to be what Brad Penn and Mobil 1 15w50 contain.
The oil manufacturers have carefully balanced many factors when making the oil, and additives just mess up that balance.
12-09-2010, 04:44 PM
#28
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