Used ignition parts for sale.
#2
Any warranty that they still meet the resistance valves (ohms) provided by the WSM for distributor caps, rotors, and coils?
Did you check this before replacing them, or just replaced cause you didn't know how to test them?
Did you check this before replacing them, or just replaced cause you didn't know how to test them?
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#9
Tested the coils and on my multimeter at the 200 ohm position they both read 1.1 for the first winding and my tips aren't long enough to check the second winding without taking them apart.
#11
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Caps wear at the center contact to the rotor, and there may be arcing damage to the individual cylinder contacts inside. As suggested, you can wash them with soap and water, dry them and they will be good as they were on the car. Look for cracking in the caps. Resistance through the wire connections should be zero ohms.
Rotors wear at the tips with arc flash damag. If they are clean there, do the same wash-and-dry and they are fine if not cracked.
Coils are a crapshoot. If they worked when removed that are likely fine. They get damaged if run while the wires are damaged or there are big gaps in the cap/rotor junction, the coil wire comes loose or fails internally. Higher firing voltage from those problems may cause internal arcing in the secondary coil, but you'd know that because the car won't run right. Don't drop them. The ohm meter test is a good start. You can use a paperclip to reach the center secondary connection. A common ohm meter will not test faulted coil insulation though, just continuity in the winding.
Rotors wear at the tips with arc flash damag. If they are clean there, do the same wash-and-dry and they are fine if not cracked.
Coils are a crapshoot. If they worked when removed that are likely fine. They get damaged if run while the wires are damaged or there are big gaps in the cap/rotor junction, the coil wire comes loose or fails internally. Higher firing voltage from those problems may cause internal arcing in the secondary coil, but you'd know that because the car won't run right. Don't drop them. The ohm meter test is a good start. You can use a paperclip to reach the center secondary connection. A common ohm meter will not test faulted coil insulation though, just continuity in the winding.
#12
WSM Volume 1A, Section 28 (page D28-14) covers testing final stage ignition components for the later model cars (S4/GT/GTS).
For the coils, the primary resistance: 0.4 - 0.7 ohms, secondary resistance: 5,000 - 8,700 ohms. Both measurements should be taken across terminal 1. For installed coils, there is also a primary coil voltage check at idle.
Rotor suppressor resistance: 1,000 ohms
For restoration or cap and rotor, you can polish the contacts and other surfaces with 2000 grit sandpaper.
For the coils, the primary resistance: 0.4 - 0.7 ohms, secondary resistance: 5,000 - 8,700 ohms. Both measurements should be taken across terminal 1. For installed coils, there is also a primary coil voltage check at idle.
Rotor suppressor resistance: 1,000 ohms
For restoration or cap and rotor, you can polish the contacts and other surfaces with 2000 grit sandpaper.