87 5SPD- Starts out rough and sputters-update
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
After changing the coil wire. things seemed normal. However for the past two days when I get in the car, the thing starts out missing a bit and running roughly for about 10 minutes. After that point it seems to clear up and the thing runs like a scalded dog. (No dogs were actually harmed. This is just a saying in the South that references the speed of an actual dog had it been scalded with hot water.)
Think maybe some condensation somewhere that dries out?
Think maybe some condensation somewhere that dries out?
Last edited by cpayne; 12-03-2010 at 10:08 AM.
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I only replaced the coil and coil wire (Noticed arcing in the dark) on the drivers side. Then for two days it ran fine. The rotors coils and caps looked good to a noob. I do need some plug wires. Maybe I should get that special off Roger and some wires.
#4
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Do you have a way to check if your ISV is sticking? My car has recently developed a bad idle when started, but clears up when warm. Plugged in the shark tuner and discovered the ISV isn't working for the first few minutes the car is on...then I guess it warms up enough and expands a bit and the sticky bits can move. Going to get a new one rather than mess around with the WD40 trick.
#5
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you've had the battery disconnected recently, maybe disconnect it again and let it sit for 30 minutes, hook it back up, drive it like ya stole it. I had a similar situation with my S4 and this did the trick.
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
That is easy enough to do. The battery was unhooked after installing the coil wire.
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Do you have a way to check if your ISV is sticking? My car has recently developed a bad idle when started, but clears up when warm. Plugged in the shark tuner and discovered the ISV isn't working for the first few minutes the car is on...then I guess it warms up enough and expands a bit and the sticky bits can move. Going to get a new one rather than mess around with the WD40 trick.
The idle witch is working, then WOT switch tested bad (Jads928 helped with that a while back.) the throttle sticks forward a bit. daily i'm squirting wd 40 to lube it helped some. Yesterday same thing. after about 10-15 minutes of rough running and what felt like missing (No backfires) things smoothed out no fuel smell.
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Daily squirting WD40 into the ISV may do more harm than good.
Whats the fuel pressure? History of fuel filter, fuel pump, O2 sensor and MAF?
Whats the fuel pressure? History of fuel filter, fuel pump, O2 sensor and MAF?
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
WD40 went down the throttle cable not ISV. I have not checked fuel pressure.
MAF was rebuilt by injection labs about a month ago. Fuel filter unknown.
It all started here https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...side-coil.html
Note after it warms up and smooths out I can stop and start it with little trouble and it runs fine.
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Cable to the throttle body heading under the intake. Thats what I'm using wd 40 on as I have high idle that started the same time as rough running. (Throttle was previously stuck and WD 40 applied that worked until now.
#12
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
We just went through a 200 post thread where the idle issue was a slightly open throttle plate...........might be time to R&R the intake.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ggestions.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ggestions.html
#13
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The WD 40 fix ( if it works) is usu temporary. I agree it's not something you do daily or long term. Disconnect #12 and spray a dose in the hose running toward firewall under the plenum. Of course immediately it should run better b/c you just introduced a flammable spray. The question is what does it do on the next start up? If it runs better, it's b/c you freed up the ISV. In a couple weeks it will stick again, but at least you have found the problem w/o removing the intake. The part used to be $165, so it's not something you want to replace w/o being sure that is the cause. There are different techniques: Spray it, let it sit an hour or over night so the lube can do it's thing. It may take a couple applications. YMMV.
#14
Rennlist Member
#15
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
One of the symptoms found on the previous attached thread was what was thought to be a bad TPS. the issue here is that the TPS is adjusted to the position of the throttle plate. IF the throttle plate is held just slightly open the TPS will appear to be not operating in the closed position.
As the throttle cable is sticking thats a major safety issue.
Once the intake is off you can check all these components and the ISV for correct functionality.
As the throttle cable is sticking thats a major safety issue.
Once the intake is off you can check all these components and the ISV for correct functionality.