cpayne

Yes sometimes it has to be pushed and then will click when pulled forward.
Any threads on refreshing just this portion. New cables WOT.
I wanted to do a full top end refresh in the spring. if i have to do it now, I'll start selling my plasma and other fluids and get it done sooner.

Tom. M

you may want to check the throttle cable (the one going from the throttle assembly on the side of the intake down to the gas pedal). Mine was frayed inside the housing by the gas pedal and I couldn't see it.. It stuck at 4krpm and felt "gritty" before that....

cpayne

will do

cpayne

When I drove home last night car ran smooth as silk from start to finish about 1 hour total driving. Stopping and starting once for fuel. Idling was in normal range but a little erratic

This morning little cooler and frost just starting to form on the car body. Car idling was at 2500 pushing the pedal didn't seem to matter but did come down to 1800 -2000. It ran rough at low rpms as it has been and on its way to highway speed sputtered when the throttle was depressed but still moved on out. After about 15 minutes of driving. Idling was at 1,100 and car is smooth running, just high idle.
Compared to yesterday where the temperature was warmer overnight and in the morning and the car started fine no sputtering. Idle was high at first put revved it up and came down to normal over time.

Jadz928

I'm thinking ISV or intake leak which "seals up" as the car warms up.

Get out that WD-40 and Brakleen and clean out that ISV. We can do it on Friday when we yank your pesky alarm.

Heck, we can do a vacuum leakdown test thru the throttle too...

cpayne

Thanks! sounds like you have the technology and experience required. ISV checking it is.
Just so you don't think I'm not listening to you about the ISV which you mentioned yesterday. I wanted to update my experience as we solve this puzzle, so that others may benefit. I'm believing the ISV is the cause. Hopefully this thread will be marked solved Friday evening.

Jadz928

word up. I get what you are doing and it is very beneficial to chart running trends. Not only that, but this is your thread... have at 'er!

the flyin' scotsman

Was this issue repaired? What was the problem?

Jadz928

^^^^
Not sure where he landed, but he updated his fixit post recently. LINK

No mention of outcome... although when he left my house, he had an overlying issue, a bad sound coming from the OP/WP area.

Landseer

He's planning to bring it here.
Am hoping its a crank pulley or power steering pump problem.
Says it goes away and is heard sometimes?
Going to put it in the air and get underneath while is running.
Alternately, remove plugs and turn by hand, listening with stethoscopes.

cpayne

For the most part I believe the idling rough running part is ISV related.
I however haven't started it since I drove it home the other night.
Everything was smooth and good except for the intermittent noise.
I plan on firing it up tonight and checking the oil for metal. (fingers crossed)
and at that point I will know if what we did fixed the rough idle rough running on startup.

Mrmerlin

pull off the vacuum lines to the dampers and the FPR see if you can smell gas

cpayne

After this past weekends refresh thanks again Jim, Chris, Kevin. I went out this morning. fired right up idle started a tad High while the frost melted. started to work when the temp gauge started to move up a bit. no rough running. Idle stayed constant at 800 RPMS. Coolant light came on when I got to work. Didn't smell anything too strong (I have a small leak) Heater valve seemed to be working.
The OP/WP noise didn't show up. car ran well. I only ran about 75 and did not get over 3,000 RPMS. I'll check the oil in a bit for metal bits.