77tony

Ship them along with the weather stripping already ordered. Thank you Roger. T

LUCKYJACKASS

Roger,
What do you have in the way of Zimmermans for an '83 S? Brake system was my plan for the winter prior to the coolant system taking a dive...

Speedtoys

From what I see at the track..doesnt make a difference.

Its lost surface area for friction, and they'll still crack at the outside edge if you heat shock it enough..and its lost mass to manage braking energy with.

My two cents..just my opinion...and I pull a lot of snapped rotors and the cars bolted to them from tirewalls in my weekend job.

Speedtoys

Exactly..and only if you think youre glazing the pads, or unfortunate enough to have purchased pads that still outgas...which generally was a problem our grandfathers had.

Rotors cool the best by using the airpump built into them, and also FORCE feeding it..all sealed up at the hub, not just pointing more air to them. The volume of air you move thru a device to cool is provide very large returns, drilling doesnt do that. IMHO, it reduces the efficiency of the heat pump, that rotor veining is.

Dan87951

Roger all I need are the fronts? Possible deal on those?

Speedtoys

Go offroading at 10mph into deep water much?

Ever notice the inside of a wheel is dry after driving in a heavy rain? And that the rotor is always turning..which spits off -any- appreciable water, and any super duper thin layer left..evaporates on contact with a rotor that is almost always in the 100-150d range during steady city cruise (bearing heat, latent heat from last braking, sliiiightly dragging pad..). At highway cruise..just the speed, airflow, and centrifugal force alone has that sucker dry as a bone.


Hitting a hard puddle, isnt gonna wet a rotor. Parking in it...sure, a VERY VERY deep one. Splashed rain while parked..sure...but not while driving.

Drill & slotted, still more lost mass, lost surface area (friction = braking, less = less) and sure looks pretty, but overkill to do both, IMHO.

And the gassing thing...brake vendors tell you that, but ask em which pads gas, and which dont. I havent gotten a list of those from anyone yet..again, 100% my own opinion. The most efficient rotor is left whole...as a friction surface and as a heat sink.


I got a huge laugh, from the BMW commercials a few yrs back, advertising that "during rain, we apply the brakes lightly to keep them dry"...wow.

ROG100

Judging by how many sets of drilled (Cast) v solid we sell the solids are in the BIG minority.
Had them on my GTS a long time and no issues at all. They look the "Dogs Bollocks".

ROG100

Tony - will be done.
Your door seals strips shipped today.

ROG100

Dan,
X Drilled Fronts Zimmerman 86.5 to 91 on their own are $235 the pair.
Roger

ROG100

Jeff,
Plain Zimmerman 82 to 86 $330 for the set of 4.
Rears by Sebro (OEM Porsche) brings the set price down to $290.
Roger

Speedtoys

I agree, they are pretty.


But..thats not what I use my brakes for.

You can beat ugly up, a lot lot more.

calrcm

How much for 85 -86 cross drilled?

ROG100

X Drilled not available for the fronts on 82 to 86 cars only the rear.

ROG100

Hey Guys - I am trying to sell parts and really did not want to start a discussion on the pro's and cons of Drilled v plain rotors.
Any chance you could start another thread to discuss the topic please?

Stylemobile

Damn! Just when my popcorn just finished popping. I was ready to settle in to some serious discussion reading.

Roger thanks for posting your Winter specials.
I will call or email about what I am interested in.

Did you see my '928sRus shirt' thread?...:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...d-my-life.html

I owe ya one, Buddy! Thanks for the body armor!
(Post a comment there if you're not too busy with inventing the next product to save the world.)

Allen