How to clean ground points
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A local shop is holding a tech session next weekend so I have an opportunity to get my car up on a lift. I've been planning on doing a full electrical refurb starting with cleaning the ground points and finishing with overhauling the CE board so this will be a good opportunity to get at the ground points under the car. I have a bottle of Stabilant22 and also an aerosol can of contact cleaner (CRC QD Contact Cleaner, electrical grade, safe for plastic, quick drying).
What is the recommended procedure for cleaning the ground points? Do I need to have a Dremel tool ready to brush off rust? Will the aerosol can of contact cleaner be enough? Would it be wise to use the Stabilant22 on the ground points? Should I have some extra washers/nuts on hand? If so, what size and type (I'm thinking zinc-plated steel, correct me if I'm wrong).
Thanks in advance,
Dan
What is the recommended procedure for cleaning the ground points? Do I need to have a Dremel tool ready to brush off rust? Will the aerosol can of contact cleaner be enough? Would it be wise to use the Stabilant22 on the ground points? Should I have some extra washers/nuts on hand? If so, what size and type (I'm thinking zinc-plated steel, correct me if I'm wrong).
Thanks in advance,
Dan
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The stabilant is a good idea, as is the CRC. Also, I use very fine grit sandpaper to clean the big underside contact points, making them nice and shiny, then squirt/rinse with crc, add some stabilant and button up. On the ce panel, be more careful with the abrasive, since the copper bits are much thinner. Again, stabilant and contact cleaner is good to use there too. For real thin places like the back of the instrument cluster, use no more than a pencil erasure to clean the connections - best just to use the crc and nothing abrasive.
For the exposed stuff (like under the car), once it is cleaned and buttoned up, add some dialelectric grease to the connection to keep crud out. As you likely know, diaelectric is not conducting, so it should only be used for a reconnected connection to protect it from future degradation.
For the exposed stuff (like under the car), once it is cleaned and buttoned up, add some dialelectric grease to the connection to keep crud out. As you likely know, diaelectric is not conducting, so it should only be used for a reconnected connection to protect it from future degradation.
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I use the dremel with one of those circular wire brush attachments, makes cleaning a lot quicker than with sandpaper. Good call on the dielectric grease.
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Yeah, just finished cleaning some of the easy to reach points. The disc wire tool works awesome--really brings out a shine, but it's hard to get the correct tilt sometimes. I'll have to see what I have in different shapes.
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There is also a hard-to-find wire brush that is long and thin.
Works inside female connectors like 14 pin.
If you ever find it at retail, buy all they have.
Works inside female connectors like 14 pin.
If you ever find it at retail, buy all they have.
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Folks for some reason seem to think that dielectric grease is what's best for electrical connections. Generally it isn't. Dielectric grease has a high dielectric strength. It's perfect for places where you don't want electricity to flow.
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For instance, after installing (or cleaning) the connection points on the oil pressure sending unit, once the wires are re-attached, it is a good idea to coat the connections with dialectric grease to minimize the effects of corrosive crud. As I mentioned above, it is not a conductive item, but it is a protectant. I agree that many think it is cconductive and use it wrong - by adding it to the connecting surfaces before they are buttoned down.
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