Help in NJ - Stripped allen head
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks to everyone else for their replies.
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
I do have a long chisel and a heavy mallet.
Is there a greater chance of screwing something else up if it doesn't work, or only messing the bolt up a bit more?
I'll give it a shot.
Is there a greater chance of screwing something else up if it doesn't work, or only messing the bolt up a bit more?
I'll give it a shot.
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
The second bolt on this caliper and the 2 on the driver's side caliper all had plenty of whatever lubrication had been put on them when the brakes were done 2 years ago. After freeing each up initially with a breaker bar, they all came out easy. (Their heads were all in good shape.)
Since all the other bolts were still lubed, I didn't try any penetrating oil. I assumed this bolt would have been the same in terms of being lubed up. Guess it can't hurt to try at this point.
Since all the other bolts were still lubed, I didn't try any penetrating oil. I assumed this bolt would have been the same in terms of being lubed up. Guess it can't hurt to try at this point.
#21
Drifting
If there is a head then these nut/bolt extractors are great.
The other best way would be to have a nut welded onto that one, the head helts in the removal and you take it out with a ratchet and socket
#22
Team Owner
well if you have a welder i would go with welding a nut onto the damaged bolt head
NOTE drilling the head should be done first if you dont have a welder as welding will harden the metal
NOTE drilling the head should be done first if you dont have a welder as welding will harden the metal
#23
Three Wheelin'
If you look closely at the bolt thats damaged how do you propose welding the bolt on the side nearest the caliper? There isn't any room. If you don't get good penetration of weld all the way around the bolt its just going to snap off. I'd first try the chisel and if that doesn't work get out the drill.
#24
Team Owner
you would weld to the inside of the nut with a mig welder
#25
Rennlist Member
from looking at the picture, do you have room to cut a bigger slit in the bolt. This way you could get a standard screwdriver bit into it-then use an impact screwdriver device. Harbor freight sells them for 5.99 Item # 37530. I have had a lot of luck doing this with other stripped out hardware. Problem is, do you have enough room?
#27
Racer
Thread Starter
There may be enough room to make a bigger slit. I also have one of the Craftsman impact drivers with the screw driver head. (Used successfully to take out phililps head screws on the driver's side rotor)
I'm actually heading down to my friends house in a few minutes. He's got experience with this kind of stuff and we're going to try getting it out.
I have the replacement bolt already.
Thanks again for all the replies.
Thanks again to David for offering to help me get it out. It was cool talking with you this morning. If my buddy can't help me, I may still take you up on the offer.
I'm actually heading down to my friends house in a few minutes. He's got experience with this kind of stuff and we're going to try getting it out.
I have the replacement bolt already.
Thanks again for all the replies.
Thanks again to David for offering to help me get it out. It was cool talking with you this morning. If my buddy can't help me, I may still take you up on the offer.
#28
Drifting
I've had success with filing flats on the bolt head, then using the bolt extractors shown (the fluted ones which grip round the head, not the ones which fit inside the well). Your head looks very distorted though, so I hope there's still room around it for the extractor.
#30
Rennlist Member
FBIII, why not? The impact driver should take care of the torque portion as long as you can get a hard enough wack with hammer. As long as the blade is wide enough and you have enough room to hit it hard enough-it might work. The drawback is if it doesn't work and you sheer the side off, then you have less bolt to work with. Just an idea as it has worked for me on similar items in my job (equals aircraft parts).