Mike Frye

Symptoms include rough idle, then it finally stopped at an intersection and wouldn't restart. It's possible, but I think we're looking at something that was getting progressively worse and finally just cut out.

I've read that one too. The problem I have with that is that now you're just blowing whatever was jammed in there back into the line. Isn't that just asking for it to ingest the same thing again later? Unless you do it on the bench I guess.

Also, since voltage was mentioned, we're at about 11.9 volts read at the battery since we've been working on it and cranking it. Anyone think it might need a bump just to make sure the battery voltage isn't an issue?

Landseer

I've done it in-situ on the Perl 87 (at a toll both) and two earlier cars.

You have to pinch the fuel supply line with vicegrips with rubber hoses over the jaws, disconnect it, and basically spray gasoline under the gas tank while messing with electrical connections under there. Dangerous. Capital D.

Make sure you have a fire extinguisher and access to a medvac flight and a room at the burn unit.

Otherwise, pretty easy. One had to be squirted with brakeclean through a straw and poked to dislodge the crap.

Do it on the workbench!


On the other hand, the prudent thing to do is replace all the wear / decay items back there, including cleaning the tank.
Two of the afore-mentioned fuel pumps ended-up being replaced anyway, later.

Once the system gets messed-up, it all needs a thorough once-over.

Enough data points exist on this topic that any car sitting three years inactive or more should probably have this stuff replaced.

Mike Frye

NICE! Well, if we were in my garage we could call the local emergency room where they have a room named after me and they keep a coffee mug with my name on it. Unfortunately the car is at Steve's place and I noticed he has both of his eyebrows and no noticeable disfiguring scars so he might not get the same treatment.

Yeah, I'm thinking that with all of the other PM that Andrew did on this, it needs new parts. I just e-mailed him Stan's list and he agreed to have the parts on hand. I'm really just thinking that this car is about $250 and a few hours away from being the reliable and FUN car he wanted when he got it. No reason to play around with blowing things out without cleaning out he gunk that got in there in the first place.

M. Requin

I certainly do. I had a no-start issue with a battery that seemed ok, everything worked fine, lights, etc., but no start. When I stuck a DVM on it I went out and bought a new battery, problem cured. Good luck!

AO

Back at work today... so now I can catch up on my RL!

Well... a bad/failing fuel pump sure would explain a lot - well more specifically, the lack of fuel. It could be that the pump is good, but the strainer is bad/plugged.

11.9V doesn't sound like an issue - should be plenty to drive the pump. Probably low from cranking so many times.

Here's what I would do:

Order a new pump, filter, and strainer. Might as well replace the short rubber hose from the tank to the pump too (the one that's there is most likely original.) Drain the tank and remove pump, filter, and strainer. My guess is that the problem will be readily appearant once you have things apart. If it's not appearant, bench test the pump to see if it's the culprit.

If you can't see what the issue is, then it's time to inspect the hard and soft lines from the pump forward. All the rubber lines (except for that one at the pump) were replaced with Roger's fuel line kit, so I doubt it's any of the soft lines, but you never know. Hard lines would be way down on my list, but a quick look-see might reveal something.

Hang in there Steve. I'm sure it's something simple. BTW, buy Mike some really good beer.

norcoastal

I ordered the fuel filter and it will be here tomorrow.

I have the 928's R Us site open and I have the fuel pump in my cart. Mike said to order 6 sealing washers.. The site only has Copper Crush Washers, Fuel Crush Rings or an In Tank Pump/Strainer Tank Sealing Ring . Which do I get?

Also I don't see the hard line from the pump to the filter?

Mrmerlin

Call Roger now 817four three zero 26 88

norcoastal

Thanks Mr Merlin, I spoke to Roger today and I ordered all my parts.

Should be here by the weekend.

I'll keep everyone posted.

Mrmerlin

the running issue will get figured out and you will have a reliable car to drive

Mike Frye

+1
Yup. I never met a problem that I couldn't tell Rennlist about and get fixed.

Steve told me he ordered up everything you suggested and we're on for first thing Sunday morning.

It will be done early or it may take a while, but by Sunday afternoon it will be nothing but click-vroom- BWAAAAAAAHHH

Mrmerlin

just dont overtighten the cap nut ,
this will crush your new hard line .
I also suggest to use a dab of Loctite PTFE pipe thread sealant on the check valve threads where it screws into the pump, its not uncommon to the have the check valve get a 1/8 turn loose after its secured with the cap nut and then start to leak.

norcoastal

Now I'm in a jam. The parts from Roger never came.

I can't be without a car another week. My daughter is mad at me for getting her up at 5:45 to take me to the train station and my wife needs her car to go to work.

The only part I have is the fuel filter.

What do I have to lose, I'm going to replace the filter in the morning and see if it starts.

Is this a bad idea? Is changing the filter easy?

I think I just remove two 10mm bolts and the filter is exposed right?

Remove the old filter and replasce with the new.

Am I missing anything here???

Landseer

If you have basic mechanic skills, respect for gasoline under pressure, have the battery disconnected, car outside in a ventillated area... pretty easy to do.

I'd have some metric flare nut wrenches available for these types of fittings, or tight fitting wrenches as minimum

But its possible it won't solve the car's problem, so if you do it, don't get your hopes too high.

Getting another car as a daily driver would be on top of my list. This comment is not intended as a slight towards your particular car, though.

I've got a bunch of these, an engineering background and a boatload of tools. My garage is a constant carousel. Constantly rotating them through to fix something.

Mike Frye

Hey Steve,

Sorry I missed your e-mail and this post last night. I just woke up and was going to get ready to come up.

It really stinks that your parts didn't get there. Is it possible they went to deliver them and no one was there to sign for them?

I'm with Chris on everything he said.

I can still come up and give you a hand if you like, let me know. At least since you've got the filter we could tear everything apart and see if we can figure out the actual problem. When I was there last week I didn't want to remove the filter or try checking out the pump since we didn't even have a filter to put back in there.

Your car isn't going anywhere until this is fixed so if we need to drop it all and remove the pump and work on it on the bench that's an option too.

Let me know, OK?

peter.scannell

Steve
The Lakewood Uhaul has a tow dolly. Bring your car up to Body motion, 21 Cindy Lane, Ocean. The cost to start is $300. I can fix just about anything but when my car started stopped etc I finally gave in and went to the experts. I had "two" bum fuel pumps in a row. I had already fixed it once myself so I assumed that wasn't the problem, third one was the charm. If you need a yank call me 732-869-9155 Peter (Neptune)