Emboss

(one photo per question)

First up, and I feel really stupid for having to ask this, but how do you get to the fuses? The owner's manual says to hinge the floor panel upwards, but there's nothing obvious to hinge that also moves.

Secondly, I've got three holes in the carpet behind the seat rail for the passenger seat. I can't find anything obvious that should be in them. Any ideas?

Third up, there was light from a different direction today, and it showed a light patch on a ridge along the hatch. It looks like a PO had buffed it out a bit too much and struck through the clearcoat This presents two problems - it's on the hatch (which I've heard is difficult to prep for spraying due to the way the glass is bonded in), and also the color is Cassis Red (which I expect will be difficult to match well). Anyone have experience with either of these?

Finally, I've discovered a loose thread in the driver seat. Doesn't look too hard to fix fortunately, though probably a bit fiddly without fully disassembling the seat. I've done similar repairs on fabrics, but is there anything to watch out for on 928 leather? Also, is going in from the outside the correct approach here? I assume the seat is tied together enough to make removing the leather cover without further damage rather difficult ...

ammonman

The Central Electric Panel cover on my '90 moves straight up vertically and then lifts out, no hinges involved. The three holes in the carpet are vent holes for the stereo amplifier that is/was installed under that cover. I'm no help with the hatch paint. The seat stitching can be repaired if the leather is still in good condition. To do it right, IMHO, requires removal of the cover. I would talk to a local upholstery shop about options.

Love the color. This combination is the only way that the burgundy interior looks good as far as I'm concerned.

Oh, and welcome to the forum. You are at the right place for all things 928. We like pictures so if you can, post some more of your low km beauty.

Mike

F18Rep

Agreed. I think it would look hacked if done from the outside - I have this same problem and not looking forward to the R&R to do a 10 minute stich fix. Bruce

ROG100

Interesting that the accelerator kick panel for a LHD car is fitted to a RHD.
Welcome to the shark tank.

svpmx83

for access to the fuses the two recessed bolts at the bottom of the panel will need to be removed

Mrmerlin

and remove the parcel tray it will make working on the Ce panel that much easier

Markmandude

I had the same problem with my fuse box. I realized after I removed the two bolts at the bottom and the bottom piece that the hinged part was hitting the carpet piece towrds the middle of the car. I pushed that piece in slightly and the hinged board opened right up.

jcorenman

That won't be as bad as you think-- yes, the center part is all tied down to the seat structure below, but you don't have to get into that-- just flip the "skirt" up and sew from the backside.

You'll need to remove the seat, two 6mm-socket bolts in the front (one per side) and four in the back. Run the seat all the way back to get to the front bolts, and all the way forward to get to the rears. Run the height all the way up at this time, before disconnecting the electrics.

Then tilt the seat and reach underneath and disconnect the electrics, there will be a cable from seat-frame to chassis for the seat motors, with a rectangular disconnect at each end (which break if you get them under the seat frame... ). Then get a helper and lift the seat out, it is heavy and awkward.

Start at the rear, the back of the seat-cover forms a "flap" that covers the rear of the frame. The bottom edge is secured with hog-rings, remove those. Under that, the side pieces wrap around and are also secured with hog rings, remove those also. (I don't think you need to separate the seat-back and bottom for this).

Now have a look at how the "skirt" is attached at the bottom. There is a wire around the bottom, tied off at the back-- carefully undo that. Then find all of the sharp metal "prongs" that secure the hem at the bottom of the skirt (with the wire inside) to the frame, carefully straighten those out and slip the leather off each prong (compressing the foam with one hand will create some slack, which will help).

You will also need to remove the seat control switches, two screws in the bezel and two more securing the switches. There should be enough slack in the wiring to pull the switches out a few inches, look underneath the frame for cable-ties that may need removal.

Now you should be able to lift the skirt all around, folding it back towards the center of the seat. The center part will still be secured, but you can now get to the backside of the bolster and re-sew the seam.

The welting is first sewn to one side (which is why it is still attached to the outside "skirt" piece), then the two sides are sewn together. Get some medium-weight upholstery thread and carefully sew through the same holes, extending a few stitches on each side to lock the original stiching. When you are finished, tie off the threads (on the backside) and then seal the knot with a drop of glue or a small flame (dacron thread melts, sealing the ends into the knot-- don't overdo it).

Then reassemble. Prongs first (be sure the wire, inside the hem, is also around each prong, then secure the wire at the back (don't pull too hard on it), then hog-rings for the flaps. Be sure to fit the "tabs" into the "slots" on both sides of the hinges. Be sure the prongs are folded flat, on the sides. Find band-aids for fingers (fortunately, burgandy doesn't show blood), reinstall (don't forget electrics, before bolts) and you are done!

lrpman

I can help on the leather, what a shock.
Anyway, you need to SOFTEN the leather before it is repaired. The Stitching pooped because the leather shrunk from drying up over the years.
I had the same thing in a XJS we had. I soaked the leather with our Rejuvinator Oil about 3 times and just let it work for about 4 days. Then I took our Prestine Clean and wiped down all the leather. This allowed the leather to relax so it could be put back in place.
DO NOT try and STRETCH the leather before it is ready it will rip for sure.
Get it soft and you can then take the seat to a leather person and they can fix it for you.
We also have the dye to refinish the leather if required.
I am probably in deep crap for this info but so be it.
Need more info just email me at lrpweb@bellsouth.net and I will do what I can for you

blown 87

The paint looks like it could be a sun fade issue, red is bad about doing that.
Of course it could be a monkey with a buffer, but I doubt it.

danglerb

Very pretty car.

The metallic reds do suffer from sunburn.

One way to stay out of "vendor/non vendor" trouble is to make the public post generic and offer product specific information via PM. Personally I would like to see as much information on a great line of products as I can, but that might bump against forum vendor policy.

Hilton

Yeah I've always thought it weird - there isn't one in the driver's footwell on RHS cars either

Emboss - the two recessed 10mm nuts in the holes on the base of the wood panel need to come off, then pull the panel towards you from the bottom, and you'll have good access to the fuses and relay panel.

jon928se

Strange - both my RHD 928s have the kick panel next to the accelerator pedal.

ROG100

Jon,
So on the RHD the kick panel is attached to the right side wall of the car next to the pedal.
I see PET lists a 927 part for that one. Do yours have the LHD one as well?
Roger

jon928se

That's correct.

No - I'm trying to picture how the LHD one works because there is to pieces of carpet at the side of the centre console - the piece attached to the body/transmission tunnel and the piece above it attached to the fibreboard panel that at the side of the shifter/ HVAC vacuum pods / stereo etc.