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Overheating after WP replacement... Place your bets...

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Old 10-08-2010, 10:30 PM
  #16  
blown 87
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Originally Posted by nc_growler
I'm extremely optimistic about the WP.

Sounds like another vote for pulling the t-stat...

The old WP failed by leak-out on the weep hole... No disintegration or impact... I would have suspected that the t-stat was fine before the job.

Radiator obstruction? Hmmm.
95% of the time when you do a repair and it does not work after the repair, you need to look at what you just did, especially in a case like this where you replaced a part due to leakage, not over heating and now you have no coolant flow.

I got ten bucks says the WP has bound up some how and the impeller is not turning.
I hope this is not the case, but every thing that has been posted sure points in that direction.
Old 10-08-2010, 10:39 PM
  #17  
nc_growler
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Originally Posted by blown 87
I got ten bucks says the WP has bound up some how and the impeller is not turning.
That would be my worst case scenario... But I'm taking it under advisement.

I agree that a "spontaneous" failed sensor or t-stat seems unlikely... Not impossible, but unlikely...
Old 10-08-2010, 10:58 PM
  #18  
underdog928
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The fact that the upper radiator hose is gets very hot and the level is rising in the reservoir would seem to indicate that the water pump and the thermostat are both functioning. This along with the fact that the lower hose remains cool, seems to lead to the conclusion that the radiator is blocked somehow which would be really bad.

I guess you could drain the radiator and try to back flush it with a garden hose to see if anything comes out. Past that you'd need to pull it.

Good luck.
Old 10-08-2010, 11:02 PM
  #19  
underdog928
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If the WP is bound up, you're going to eat the t-belt in a hurry.
Old 10-08-2010, 11:05 PM
  #20  
blown 87
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??????
How do you come to that conclusion?

The fact that the coolant level is rising tells me a different story.


Originally Posted by underdog928
The fact that the upper radiator hose is gets very hot and the level is rising in the reservoir would seem to indicate that the water pump and the thermostat are both functioning. This along with the fact that the lower hose remains cool, seems to lead to the conclusion that the radiator is blocked somehow which would be really bad.

I guess you could drain the radiator and try to back flush it with a garden hose to see if anything comes out. Past that you'd need to pull it.

Good luck.
Old 10-08-2010, 11:11 PM
  #21  
OBehave
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Look at the waterpump pulley.We paint code the pulley and cover to the drive sprocket.If the water pump is not turning the paint marks will not be lined up.
And if they are not lined up,then that means the coupler did it's job.There is too much resistance against the pump to turn it or the belt is not tensioned properly. Ed
Old 10-08-2010, 11:15 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by underdog928
If the WP is bound up, you're going to eat the t-belt in a hurry.
Not so with the WP he has installed. It's designed to let the TB track normally whether the WP has totally seized or not. Sounds like the innovation may be acting counter-productively, though.

Also, the fact that the top hose is hot and the lower hose is cool concludes that there is no circulation. There is no debating that. I agree with Greg. Go ahead and think worst-case scenario because it 99% sure ain't the t-stat. Go ahead and throw it into some boiling water to be sure it is opening of course. Have you contacted Ed?
Old 10-08-2010, 11:33 PM
  #23  
underdog928
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Originally Posted by A.Embry
Not so with the WP he has installed. It's designed to let the TB track normally whether the WP has totally seized or not. Sounds like the innovation may be acting counter-productively, though.

Also, the fact that the top hose is hot and the lower hose is cool concludes that there is no circulation. There is no debating that. I agree with Greg. Go ahead and think worst-case scenario because it 99% sure ain't the t-stat. Go ahead and throw it into some boiling water to be sure it is opening of course. Have you contacted Ed?
Sorry, didn't catch the fact that it was one of the new fail-safe pumps. Saw that at Frenzy, very cool design. Hard to believe it would fail immediately on installation unless the impeller is jammed into the block. Did you rotate the WP pulley by hand before you put the T-Belt on?

As for the rising level in the reservoir, I've had this happen before when my car was overheating. The radiator was clogged and the pressure from the WP on the blocked radiator would cause the level in the reservoir to rise. This was with the cap off. Not sure what we have in this case, but it seemed logical. Why this would happen all of a sudden is not clear, but with these cars, I'm never surprised.
Old 10-08-2010, 11:38 PM
  #24  
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please answer these questions, yes or no will work...
After installing the new WP did you turn the pulley by hand to see if it spun freely?
Is the belt tensioned correctly?
Did you remove the thermostat and inspect the rear seal??
Did you replace the thermostat?
Did you open the heater to full hot prior to running the engine?
Did you let the engine warm up with the cap off??
Did you replace the cap after the fans come on and drive the car with the heater on full hot for about 5 miles and park it let it cool and top up as necessary?
Can you smell any burning rubber from the vent holes on the cam towers?

Does the engine temp go to just under the red zone in under 5 minutes at idle??

Please list all of the parts that you replaced on this job
Old 10-08-2010, 11:47 PM
  #25  
nc_growler
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Originally Posted by OBehave
Look at the waterpump pulley.We paint code the pulley and cover to the drive sprocket.If the water pump is not turning the paint marks will not be lined up.
And if they are not lined up,then that means the coupler did it's job.There is too much resistance against the pump to turn it or the belt is not tensioned properly. Ed
Thanks for weighing in Ed. If I go back in, I'll definitely be checking for this alignment.
Old 10-08-2010, 11:49 PM
  #26  
Iris and Kevin
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Are you sure the cooling system is full? and that its not air bound?
Old 10-08-2010, 11:49 PM
  #27  
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Did you leave a sponge in the patient? Don't laugh, its happened before.
Old 10-08-2010, 11:49 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by underdog928
Sorry, didn't catch the fact that it was one of the new fail-safe pumps. Saw that at Frenzy, very cool design. Hard to believe it would fail immediately on installation unless the impeller is jammed into the block. Did you rotate the WP pulley by hand before you put the T-Belt on?

As for the rising level in the reservoir, I've had this happen before when my car was overheating. The radiator was clogged and the pressure from the WP on the blocked radiator would cause the level in the reservoir to rise. This was with the cap off. Not sure what we have in this case, but it seemed logical. Why this would happen all of a sudden is not clear, but with these cars, I'm never surprised.
I honestly cannot remember if I rotated the pulley after installing the water pump. Certainly not intentionally. Timing belt is definitely tensioned correctly, triple checked.
Old 10-08-2010, 11:50 PM
  #29  
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Look, its fairly easy to pull them back down.

That's what Charles and I are about to do on a timing belt tracking issue.
Old 10-08-2010, 11:54 PM
  #30  
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please answer the questions in post 24


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