Manfred

What am I missing? A while back my my HVAC system dropped fan speed #1. I figured it was the resistor pack so ordered a new one (same model # as the one I'm replacing). Took off the hood today and took out the HVAC blower (kept electrical connections in place but took out all three bolts, loosened the windshield cowl and pull it out and rested it on the engine. Removed old resistor pack and covered the resistor pack plug with a rag while I cleaned out the evaporator (vacuum followed by coil cleaner followed by spraying down with water from bottle). Water was draining normally out bottom of car and no evidence of water in the car anywhere. Dried out housing as best I could and plugged in new resistor pack. I wanted to make sure everything was functioning as it should before buttoning everything back up; started car and watched the blower--not moving no matter what position I put the fan speed at. Unplugged new resistor and put my old one back in--still nothing. What the F. Surely I wiggled the wires going to the blower a little bit in removing it but they're pretty stout and seem well protected. I turned the fins on the blower by hand before testing the system just to make sure I didn't have to R&R that while I had it out and they turn easily and it's very clean in there. The one thing I can think of is that (following the directions on the coil cleaner) in addition to spraying the cleaner on the outside surface of the evaporator I put the tube (the coil cleaner comes with a long tube to snake it into places) through the center vent to apply some directly to the inner surface of the evaporator as well. Immediately I could see coil cleaner running forward and down the back side of the console unit so I abandoned that very quickly. Since things aren't working I pulled out the HVAC head unit from the center console to make sure it hadn't gotten wet and everything back there appears to be dry.

I feel like I must be missing something stupid. What did I forget to plug back in? If it helps, the only thing I put back together before testing the system was plugging the resistor pack back in. I can't remember taking anything else apart that's an electrical connection...

blown 87

did they both look alike?
The reason I ask is i think both resistor packs have the same part number and the only ones you can get now need some wires moved to work if you had a older style.

Does the fan com on in defrost?
If so I bet that is what is going on.

ammonman

First check for a blown fuse (#20 IIRC.) Have you re-sealed the Recirculation box above the CE Panel? You could have had some water drip down onto the CE Panel and blow the fuse.

Mike

Manfred

Hey Greg. Well, the resistor packs look the same and I switched back to my old resistor pack just to make sure that wasn't the issue--neither of them work.

Manfred

The CE panel appears to be dry but I'll check the fuse. The reason I didn't do that first off is that it didn't even give a spurt and then quit--just nothing. I had the panel off the CE box when I started it up and didn't see any sparks or hear anything pop. Back in a minute to report back on #20...

Manfred

Silly question: the hood is still off and some connectors go through the hood--not really sure what they're for--that couldn't be the easy answer could it? I know most people don't take the hood off for this. I assume some of the wires are for the light and some are for the hood alarm--couldn't be that somehow they need to be connected for the HVAC to work????

Manfred

Fuse 20 is fine

Manfred

Going out to hook up the hood connectors in the bizarre chance that they may save me a few hundred hours of searching for some other cause.

ammonman

The hood connectors are for the light and the washer nozzle heating elements. Does the fan run full speed if you put the HVAC selector on Defrost? The blower only gets power when the key is in the RUN position (the owners manual calls it Position 2 IIRC) so make sure the key is on.

Manfred

Yeah, I actually started the car just to be sure. Any yes, no blower with selector on defrost, (although I know logically these should not affect things, I tried them anyway--no blower with selector on recirc. or temp slider on all the way cold or all the way hot.)

I guess it's looking like somehow I managed to loosen a connector to the blower? I've had it for today. I've got a busy day tomorrow but hopefully I can find some time to verify that I have current at the connector for the blower (I'll have the ignition in the "on" position and put the selector on defrost.)

For now, I buttoned the car all back up with the new resistor pack in place (since the old one wasn't giving me any different results).

I guess I could have also wiggled a wire on the resistor pack plug too. Anyone know whether that would kill the whole circuit? i.e. if the resistor pack is completely unplugged and you turn on the defrost, would the blower come on or not?

blown 87

If it does not run on defrost then you have another problem besides the resistor, you know what to do, start checking for power and grounds working your way back from the blower motor as you have all ready checked the fuses.

Mrmerlin

pull the motor connection apart,
and run 12 volts to it and ground the other wire see of the motor works

Manfred

Thanks Merlin; that's as good of a place as any to start. Is the easiest thing to do to run a wire from the battery jumping post for 12 volts?

WallyP

Easier to use a voltmeter on the blower connector.

First, check for 12 vdc on the black wire using the brown wire as the ground. If there is no power, repeat the check for 12 vdc on the black wire while using a chassis ground.

If you have power and ground on the connector, the problem is in the motor or the wires to the motor.

If you have power with a chassis ground but not with the brown wire ground, the problem is a faulty ground connection.

If you have no power n the black wire with the controls on Heat or Defrost, the problem is in the connections for Fuse #20.

Manfred

Thanks Wally--I'll try to get this done tonight if I can find the time. For arguments sake though, if I were to try to supply 12v to the blower--could I just use the a wire from the jumper post (and then ground the other side of the connector)?