Clutch release arm ball socket bushing replacement? - update - bushing did not fix it
10-09-2010, 11:01 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I dreaded breaking the exhaust apart for this reason and here I am fixing something that was not broke before I touched it.
Ahh the joy of 928 ownership. Sad thing is I was feeling pretty good about all the work I got done today, right up to the point I started it
Tomorrow is another day! I did get a pick me up from your post, or more correctly the model standing behind your car
10-09-2010, 11:38 PM
#33
Team Owner
I would suspect the leak is in the junction of the header pipes the heat shield has to be removed to reweld the broken pipe to the junction, so removal of the header pipes will be necessary arent you glad you have fresh bolts in the headers??
here is what i am talking about thanks to Dwayne for posting this repair
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...o2-sensor.html
The clutch based on the corroded PP,
looks like the discs are rusted to the "I" plate and the PP/ flywheel surface so there are a few ways to break the discs loose,
The easiest way is to get the car in a position where you can start it in gear and have open space to work the clutch pedal,
Simply put in first gear start the car with the clutch pressed down ,
once it starts, start driving the car and with the clutch pressed down,
gas and then let off, keep doing this till the discs break free/
once that happens then try to drive the car being easy on the clutch so you dont damage the discs they will have to wear into the metal surfaces
here is what i am talking about thanks to Dwayne for posting this repair
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...o2-sensor.html
The clutch based on the corroded PP,
looks like the discs are rusted to the "I" plate and the PP/ flywheel surface so there are a few ways to break the discs loose,
The easiest way is to get the car in a position where you can start it in gear and have open space to work the clutch pedal,
Simply put in first gear start the car with the clutch pressed down ,
once it starts, start driving the car and with the clutch pressed down,
gas and then let off, keep doing this till the discs break free/
once that happens then try to drive the car being easy on the clutch so you dont damage the discs they will have to wear into the metal surfaces
10-09-2010, 11:53 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I would suspect the leak is in the junction of the header pipes the heat shield has to be removed to reweld the broken pipe to the junction, so removal of the header pipes will be necessary arent you glad you have fresh bolts in the headers??
here is what i am talking about thanks to Dwayne for posting this repair
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...o2-sensor.html
The clutch based on the corroded PP,
looks like the discs are rusted to the "I" plate and the PP/ flywheel surface so there are a few ways to break the discs loose,
The easiest way is to get the car in a position where you can start it in gear and have open space to work the clutch pedal,
Simply put in first gear start the car with the clutch pressed down ,
once it starts, start driving the car and with the clutch pressed down,
gas and then let off, keep doing this till the discs break free/
once that happens then try to drive the car being easy on the clutch so you dont damage the discs they will have to wear into the metal surfaces
here is what i am talking about thanks to Dwayne for posting this repair
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...o2-sensor.html
The clutch based on the corroded PP,
looks like the discs are rusted to the "I" plate and the PP/ flywheel surface so there are a few ways to break the discs loose,
The easiest way is to get the car in a position where you can start it in gear and have open space to work the clutch pedal,
Simply put in first gear start the car with the clutch pressed down ,
once it starts, start driving the car and with the clutch pressed down,
gas and then let off, keep doing this till the discs break free/
once that happens then try to drive the car being easy on the clutch so you dont damage the discs they will have to wear into the metal surfaces
I will take some photos tomorrow. Seemed noise and smoke were coming from the are of where the headers joined the exhaust pipes, the place I had apart.
The new gaskets had a very slight lip on the inner hole circumference which I assumed faced the header as the header side had a slight recess. I was careful to scrap off the old gasket and ran over both sides with a wire brush. Did I get this right?
As for the clutch I will try this tomorrow. One of the others suggested jacking up the rear wheels ant do what you described in 5th gear. is this also plausable?
10-10-2010, 12:19 AM
#35
Team Owner
Wally may have posted the other way to break the clutch discs free by putting the rear of the car up on jackstands make sure to block the front wheels so the car cant move in either direction.
You will have better luck finding out where the ex leak is if you get under the car and check things after you just start the car things wont be hot
You will have better luck finding out where the ex leak is if you get under the car and check things after you just start the car things wont be hot
10-10-2010, 12:29 AM
#36
Nordschleife Master
I might be able to get Sophea to join us at a 2nd Saturday function at some point, and of course you will be able to meet her at the party next Saturday! YEE HA! So far 7 of the calendar models have committed to be here for the party. 4 are still MIA on their email responses... Lasts years cover model is even baking some desserts for the event (she does not eat them, but she loves to cook them and she is GOOD AT IT TOO!)
10-10-2010, 10:02 AM
#37
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2002
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J... I may be in a parallel universe here. I bought and trailored my car home assuming the clutch hydraulics were shaky (clutch pedal halfway to the floor but seemed to work). I went about some other work, clutch pull, engine pull etc. and eventually pulled the slave to find a broken spring (inside the slave). And btw that is when I found that I had the y-pipe separation problem mentioned above too- talk about deja vu.
So anyway, back to the clutch - the PO told me he had just changed it and sure enough it appears to be new. Now, I'm kinda wondering if he replaced the clutch when really the slave was the culprit. Not sure any of that helps but with all that behind me, you might want to take a second look at your slave....Bruce
So anyway, back to the clutch - the PO told me he had just changed it and sure enough it appears to be new. Now, I'm kinda wondering if he replaced the clutch when really the slave was the culprit. Not sure any of that helps but with all that behind me, you might want to take a second look at your slave....Bruce
10-10-2010, 10:18 AM
#38
Rennlist Member
Some of the slaves had shorter rods.
Also, some of the masters had shorter strokes and needed some modification.
I can never purge air from my system. Usually a burp of air from the master cylinder (into the cockpit area under the pedal) is needed for me to get any clutch action after breaking the system open for whatever reason. The installation of the master is bad design. Its angled so that air bubbles will always get trapped against the firewall section of the master.
And there were a series of progessive changes to the transmission, clutch and clutch actuation parts during 78, 79 and 80 such that you could have a combo of incompatible or barely compatible pieces.
If it were me, I'd remove the clutch and take a full and complete inventory of exactly what is there and compare to the WSM.
I'd measure the slave rod. I'd remove and assess the master cyl.
Then, go from there.
Also, some of the masters had shorter strokes and needed some modification.
I can never purge air from my system. Usually a burp of air from the master cylinder (into the cockpit area under the pedal) is needed for me to get any clutch action after breaking the system open for whatever reason. The installation of the master is bad design. Its angled so that air bubbles will always get trapped against the firewall section of the master.
And there were a series of progessive changes to the transmission, clutch and clutch actuation parts during 78, 79 and 80 such that you could have a combo of incompatible or barely compatible pieces.
If it were me, I'd remove the clutch and take a full and complete inventory of exactly what is there and compare to the WSM.
I'd measure the slave rod. I'd remove and assess the master cyl.
Then, go from there.
10-10-2010, 10:18 AM
#39
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
J... I may be in a parallel universe here. I bought and trailored my car home assuming the clutch hydraulics were shaky (clutch pedal halfway to the floor but seemed to work). I went about some other work, clutch pull, engine pull etc. and eventually pulled the slave to find a broken spring (inside the slave). And btw that is when I found that I had the y-pipe separation problem mentioned above too- talk about deja vu.
So anyway, back to the clutch - the PO told me he had just changed it and sure enough it appears to be new. Now, I'm kinda wondering if he replaced the clutch when really the slave was the culprit. Not sure any of that helps but with all that behind me, you might want to take a second look at your slave....Bruce
So anyway, back to the clutch - the PO told me he had just changed it and sure enough it appears to be new. Now, I'm kinda wondering if he replaced the clutch when really the slave was the culprit. Not sure any of that helps but with all that behind me, you might want to take a second look at your slave....Bruce
I rebuilt the clutch master and slave and finally got all back in after refurbing all the brakes. I reverse bleed the system yesterday by pushing the slave rod all the way in. There was a good deal of back pressure and it reurns well so I assume the spring is good, it was when I had it apart. Slave rod travels the prescribed distance and then some.
BTW we have a golden as well!
10-16-2010, 08:18 PM
#40
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I think the exhaust leak is resolved. No more smoke anyway. I got back underneath and tightened up the manifold to exhaust hardware and started it up and no smoke.
next is trying the clutch break free tomorrow.
next is trying the clutch break free tomorrow.
Last edited by jwillman; 10-17-2010 at 10:09 AM.
10-16-2010, 11:15 PM
#41
Team Owner
the exhaust leak may not have been a leak at all,
just oil burning off the pipes ,
get the car on the road hopefully you can break the clutch loose
just oil burning off the pipes ,
get the car on the road hopefully you can break the clutch loose
02-10-2013, 03:44 PM
#43
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We sell for $14.75 - pretty cheap for a Porsche part that lasts 10 to 20 years IMOO
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
