Wilco.

I've used a Dremel with a stiff nylon brush bit to clean minor corrosion off the wire ends and/or ignition coil pins before.

Make sure you get the metal shiny and clean, though. If you can't, then it's time to replace the part.

After cleaning, put a bunch of DeoxIT® (I recommend the 100% D100L) on the metal connection point to keep corrosion at bay.

I'm startin to like you. ;] Bruce

Fiddled with my coils for a few days, then bought a used one from 928Intl and swapped it and troubles gone. Old coil still measured good, no clue on what the issues was, but problem solved.

I have two on standby locally, some new Bosch ones.


And..my water pump week became a water pump fast drip yesterday.


SO..now to work out between about one million posts, which one to get..but I can clearly state, im not payin $1k for a dealer one. ;)

That's easy... any of the ones that Ed modifies with his new bearing/drive system:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ater-pump.html
:cheers:

New Laso or one with the fancy reworked bearing.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ics-added.html

Heck, that saves exactly 999 threads.


Im on it.

Bought the two new coils..here was the testing on the old ones:

Drivers side:
Primary: 1.3ohm
Secondary: 6.1Kohms

Pass side:
Primary: 1.3ohm
Secondary: 5.88Kohms


NOT to spec, which is:

Ignition Coil Primary .33 - .46 ohms
Ignition Coil Secondary 7 - 12k ohms



SO..changed out the plugs, where were Bosch Plat +4's, the caps and rotors (which had some scarring), found that the heater return hose had now started a split ALONG the hose under where it connects to the water bridge (some hose for a GM was a dang close fit, using it until I can get a proper one)..and that solves the fun steady leak that developed on the way home last night..there were no abnormal temps involved.

Found the A/C leak on the output of the dryer, thats now tight..and I THINK the R134a system is fully charged. Its hard to get a guage on the low side, due to a PS hose being "right there" and mostly immobile. But the rear A/C blows out penguins, and the front is "cool" as it fights the heater core heat..cuz that valve under the hood is unresponsive.


Tomorrow, initial vacum tests, Temp2 checking, and that heater valve...and if I can find it, why my oil pressure sender is pegged to the top.

Oil pressure pegged.... good thing. These beasts run 5 bar at full tilt, 2-3 bar @ idle depending on temp.

Mike
84 black
80 white

Roger Tyson is your friend.
 

Lots of threads here on what you're looking for. The heater valve is a very common failure point. They're not very heat resistant....plan on regular replacement. My experience says every three years. (Assuming it's getting vacuum). Temporary fix can be as simple as a wire tie. However, where you live, you'll want to get it working properly soon.....:D
Oil pressure issue also common. If it's pegging with power on and the engine not running, it's either the wires, (Check first), or the sender itself. Bit of a PITA to get to and change out, but really not that difficult.
The DeOxit suggestion is a good one. Never heard of the stuff prior to 928 ownership, and swear by it now. Also highly effective in removing errant dash warning lights, especially for air bag systems....:p

But..with they key on at 0rpm?


:)

Spark Plugs
 

And, no point in getting fancy with high tech spark plugs....the ones that seem to work the best are the Bosche coppers. I think the part # is 7900.

7900 = WR7DC thats the plug to use
replace the water bridge hoses all of them,
replace the HCV and the short hose its special.
Vacuum testing will probably show one or more of the console pods are leaking if so thats why the HCV wont close,
so fix the leaks then the HCV will operate as advertised.
Swap out the coils make sure the new coil wires are not touching any metal or any other parts as they will soon abrade and fail.
Make sure both of the coils have a thick wire connected to the securing bolt then the other end connects to the head to ground the coil to the head

to test the oil pressure sender just swap the wires if the wire swap doesnt show any changes , OR the sender has a plug on type connector that can only go on one way, then you need a new sender

Oil pressure sender goes thru the 14 pin.
Check for corrosion or broken/suspect solder joints.