Failed Ford-type motor mount?
#1
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My car has developed what feels like a bad motor mount. I replaced the factory mounts with a pair of Ford-type ones from Roger back in late '07/early '08 when I installed the Euro S engine, but the car wasn't fired up until late '08. I put about 100 miles on it, then stored it for a year after that.
I remember that after the new mounts got hot they settled about 5/8 inch. The engine settled enough that I had some (non-stock) exhaust downtube hitting the crossmember interference issues. I had to "squash" the crossmember with a BFH to get more clearance there.
There was talk about some of these mounts being defective... how can you spot that?
Tried searching, no luck.
I remember that after the new mounts got hot they settled about 5/8 inch. The engine settled enough that I had some (non-stock) exhaust downtube hitting the crossmember interference issues. I had to "squash" the crossmember with a BFH to get more clearance there.
There was talk about some of these mounts being defective... how can you spot that?
Tried searching, no luck.
#3
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I have an email sent to him.
I just figured there would be a thread on the bad mounts. I don't even know if the ones I have ARE bad, I am just looking for input before I go under the car this weekend.
How do you spot a bad mount? I have roughly 500-700 miles on them.
I just figured there would be a thread on the bad mounts. I don't even know if the ones I have ARE bad, I am just looking for input before I go under the car this weekend.
How do you spot a bad mount? I have roughly 500-700 miles on them.
#4
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The mounts should have top and bottom plates, and those plates have "safety hooks" that interlock. The tips of those hooks should be close together. As the mounts collapse, the tips spread apart. If you can get more than a pinky finger between the tips, they are on the way to bad, at least. The more space you find, the more collapsed they are. The hooks are facing the rear on the passenger side and front on the driver side. If the mounts are bad there will be no space between the oil pan and crossmember.
#5
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Hi Erik,
I replied to your email this morning.
Follow Bill's advice as above.
We were not having problems with MM's back then.
Best,
Roger
I replied to your email this morning.
Follow Bill's advice as above.
We were not having problems with MM's back then.
Best,
Roger
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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#6
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Thanks Bill, I'll check that this weekend.
P.S. Watch your mirrors for dorsal fin as you roll into TX this November! We both know it has been speed-tested.
P.S. Watch your mirrors for dorsal fin as you roll into TX this November! We both know it has been speed-tested.
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#8
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a quick check would be to look under the car and take a picture of the oil pan to crossmember you want the oil pan to be flush with the lower edge of the crossmember, if its hanging below then there is a good chance that the mounts are bad ,
Please dont make any more mods with the BFH .
fix the issue causing the rubbing
Please dont make any more mods with the BFH .
fix the issue causing the rubbing
#9
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Hi you guys that responded-
Bill- The hooks are close
MMerlin- The pan is basically flush.
Roger- Thank you for a great product!
Just spent a while over/under the car with a flashlight. Found a couple of not-snugged items, otherwise visually it looks good.
Not sure yet what caused the "lob-throb" that I felt after that last track event... maybe it was just me...
Bill- The hooks are close
MMerlin- The pan is basically flush.
Roger- Thank you for a great product!
Just spent a while over/under the car with a flashlight. Found a couple of not-snugged items, otherwise visually it looks good.
Not sure yet what caused the "lob-throb" that I felt after that last track event... maybe it was just me...
#10
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Bad motor mounts usually cause a low-rpm vibration, say with the car idling in neutral. Bad TT bearings vibrate at just about all RPMs. If the car vibrates while sitting in the driveay running with the clutch in, which stops the TT rotation, then it's from a forward source. If it vibrates only with the clutch out in neutral in teh driveway and when driving, TT bearings are likely. If it "lob-throbs" only when driving, look at wheel balance, bad suspensions bushings, balljoints or tierods.
#11
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If you find it was a defective mount, I've been offering a free R&R offer, but you need to be a little flexible about timing. The car will need to be in the DFw area, I will come to most places, and assist with exchange of any MM found to be defective if Roger supplies the replacement.