1991 928 temp 2 sensor
#2
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Generally not a cause of complete no-start. A poor signal may cause it to run rich though. The sensor is esy to check with an ohm meter. Without getting too technical, pull the connector off the sensor, and measure ohms from each pin to ground. Are the readings close to the same? If so, your sensor is probably fine.
Where the symptoms prior to the no-start? What are the other symptoms now? Did you do anything to the car just prior to the no-start? For instance, LH brain failure often has some of the hard-start symptoms prior to total failure. Other symptoms often include clicking injectors when the key is in run position prior to cranking.
There are a ton of other potential causes of no-start. Starts out with simple bad connections at the battery terminals, through tired relays for fuel pump, ignirion & injection controllers. More after that, but you get the idea. Start with easy stuff, like is the battery charged OK?
Where the symptoms prior to the no-start? What are the other symptoms now? Did you do anything to the car just prior to the no-start? For instance, LH brain failure often has some of the hard-start symptoms prior to total failure. Other symptoms often include clicking injectors when the key is in run position prior to cranking.
There are a ton of other potential causes of no-start. Starts out with simple bad connections at the battery terminals, through tired relays for fuel pump, ignirion & injection controllers. More after that, but you get the idea. Start with easy stuff, like is the battery charged OK?
#3
Hi Dr Bob
Thanks for your reply which is duly noted. I have been trying to tackle the no start problem for quite some time. I have had help and advice from John Speake who has been extremely helpful.
The car was running sweet until one day I had it running and it gave a massive backfire, since that day it has never started again.
The car turns over and will cough and splutter, but not catch.
I started by doing all the basic checks, air, fuel, spark, cam belt . All usual suspect relays replaced. MAF & LH ECU both checked by John and confirmed OK. Spark plugs are sooty but not wet. Injector pulse tested with noid light and all OK.
Replaced front fuel pressure damper as leaking from vaccum pipe. Battery and red connectors tested and OK.
I have checked and replaced both fuel pumps, internal pump had cracked and perrised rubber. Fuel filter replaced.
Everything is pointing at fuel starvation. I need to re-check fuel pressure at the rail. If pressure not stable or high enough could other dampers be the cause? Maybe a blocked fuel line, clogged injectors.
Getting to be bit of a mystery as to whats wrong with it.
Dan
Thanks for your reply which is duly noted. I have been trying to tackle the no start problem for quite some time. I have had help and advice from John Speake who has been extremely helpful.
The car was running sweet until one day I had it running and it gave a massive backfire, since that day it has never started again.
The car turns over and will cough and splutter, but not catch.
I started by doing all the basic checks, air, fuel, spark, cam belt . All usual suspect relays replaced. MAF & LH ECU both checked by John and confirmed OK. Spark plugs are sooty but not wet. Injector pulse tested with noid light and all OK.
Replaced front fuel pressure damper as leaking from vaccum pipe. Battery and red connectors tested and OK.
I have checked and replaced both fuel pumps, internal pump had cracked and perrised rubber. Fuel filter replaced.
Everything is pointing at fuel starvation. I need to re-check fuel pressure at the rail. If pressure not stable or high enough could other dampers be the cause? Maybe a blocked fuel line, clogged injectors.
Getting to be bit of a mystery as to whats wrong with it.
Dan
#4
Supercharged
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If it will start on ether, then it's a fuel issue.
Fuel pressure is the first suspect. You might consider getting a fuel pressure gauge that attaches to the fuel rail - it will reveil much. You should have about 48psi of fuel pressure. If not, I'd suspect in this order:
Internal fuel pump - do not replace the pump - replace with strainer
External fuel pump
Fuel filter (but probably not the cause)
Fuel pressure regulator
Fuel Dampners
Fuel pressure is the first suspect. You might consider getting a fuel pressure gauge that attaches to the fuel rail - it will reveil much. You should have about 48psi of fuel pressure. If not, I'd suspect in this order:
Internal fuel pump - do not replace the pump - replace with strainer
External fuel pump
Fuel filter (but probably not the cause)
Fuel pressure regulator
Fuel Dampners
#5
Get some fuel gauges on the car. Passenger side fuel rail.
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#8
Thanks for the advice but I live in the UK, I had a quick look on ebay and just seen this fuel pressure tester. Not sure if its any good?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Car-Fuel-Pump-...item3f036c9c25
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Car-Fuel-Pump-...item3f036c9c25
#9
Supercharged
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It should work. There is a nut on the end of the fuel rail (left side as you face the car from the front). You will need to take the black cover off to see it. Carefully remove the nut and the ball. You will probably need to use hose and a hose clamp to attach the FP gauge kit you linked - the threads are a bit non-standard on the fuel rail.
BE VERY CAREFUL ABOUT FUEL LEAKS. THE ALTERNATOR ISN"T FAR AWAY AND CAN SPARK A FIRE IF NOT CAREFUL! HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER NEARBY.
BE VERY CAREFUL ABOUT FUEL LEAKS. THE ALTERNATOR ISN"T FAR AWAY AND CAN SPARK A FIRE IF NOT CAREFUL! HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER NEARBY.