Landseer

Title might be clear, but I'd still want it traced back.

End play measurement, not flexplate release, is the operative point of discussion relative to potential the car might already be down the tbf path.

Good luck with the hunt.

Jadz928

I don't care how many mile it has. If the work hasn't been done, then assume it needs it.

If OP does own work (rough numbers):

Intake refresh - $2000
TB/WP - $1000
Cooler hoses (if original which most likely they are) - $500
Electrical/non-working items - $250-$750
Brakes w/new hoses - $500 (easy)
Fluids, all around - $250
OPG/MM/Steering rack, tie rods - $750
Tires/Wheels - $1000/$1500
AC - $250-$750

$6500/$8000 without batting an eye.

Seat memory controller is $250 used, if needed
Sunroof cables are $100 each, if broken
Window motors are $100 each
Switches are $50 each
Odo gear $35
Hood insulation - $75-$100
Broken door handle - $50
CV R&R - $50
Cracked tail lights/headights?
New front spoiler - $500
New belly pan - $400
Sound system?
Exhaust system?


This S*#t adds up FAST!
Ask me how I know...

PS. I'm not basing my opinion on my experience only. Items listed are for the most part, things all new owners are dealing with.... with entry level S4s-later, purchased under $8K.

Speedtoys

Good posts all.

Gonna get eyes on it Monday with a camera, and get photos..before making a final decision.


So far, nothing on that above list concerns me...most are already on a list of things you gotta do anyhow at some point.

I will mention that the inspection item Id like in the shop there, is the flex plate travel.

Landseer

Crankshaft endplay

karl ruiter

Don't let 'em scare you off. I drive and enjoy my $4K S4 every day. In this price range it is sometimes a bit of a gamble, but I can afford to gamble $4k and it leaves me a lot more room to do work before I get upside down. So far it has been a good bet, with just steady tinkering and about $400 in parts to get it to solid daily driver level.

danglerb

Spending $4k to $5k isn't the main issue to me, its spending that and doing the work PRIOR to being able to drive it, no smog, no drive.

Speedtoys

Bout rainy season here, so no big deal. Once the dry winter storms start up, bits of trees are all over the mountain roads, and thats been hell on my RX8, I dont even bother replacing any plastic lower than the bumper anymore.


Still wondering what thoughts are on the smog readings...NE1?

anonymousagain

from what you've described, I wouldn't hesitate to get it TODAY ...likely someone else will at that price.

Don't get me wrong, you've been presented excellent advice from very knowledgeable people for consideration, and all inputs should be of concern. But, it seems you aren't so concerned with the time/money investment bringing the car up to snuff, and are looking forward to working on it and making it yours. So provided you get a smog or it's sold "as is not running for parts only", price is your only deciding factor and $4k is too low for entry price. Buy it.

Hilton

High NOx - its running lean, most likely causes are vacuum leak and new MAF needed
High HC and CO - possible misfire on one or more cylinders

I wouldn't bother trying to smog the car until intake refresh is done and MAF rebuilt by someone like Injection Labs or JDS Porsche

SQLGuy

This sounds like more shotgunning to me. Am I to understand that, even though the car supposedly runs fine, you'd blindly swap in a new MAF, new idle stabilizer, and replace what else to get up to $2000 in parts?

I think we have different ideas on what is "neccessary."

Landseer

Just about everything in there needs a refresh on a car that is this old.
Or you can do it my way, try to go cheap and go in three times in a year.

TPS, CPS, MAF plug, Vac connectors, bearings & orings in butterfly, the little shock mounts for the throttle body, all the crankcase vent hoses, injector rubber, maybe ford injectors / or clean the originals, fuel lines, powder coat, then we move to the cam covers....

Jadz928

^^^^^
Right on. What is necessary is I don't have to go back in there for a while.

SQLGuy, If you consider shotgunning what other people here on RL have into theirs...

And no I'm not referring to the MAF because that can be replaced w/o tearing down the intake.

SQLGuy

I totally consider replacing working parts like TPS and CPS shotgunning.

I also don't consider powercoating to be neccessary to a good running car. In fact, considering the couple of disaster stories here from people that left blasting media in their intakes... I'd really question this as a typical recommendation.

Sorry, but I understand replacing seals that are leaking and hoses that I've inspected and found to be in bad shape. I don't understand ripping into a working system and just replacing everything that may eventually go bad someday.

Still, given your list, I still don't see the $2000 in parts if you're not including a new MAF; and I don't consider a CPS to be part of the intake either.

Landseer

Have you ever seen a TPS not filled with oil?

Have you ever seen a TPS?

Jadz928

SQLguy, Lets not split hairs here.

I have > $10K into a < $10K car.
...in 2 years of ownership.
...and I haven't even touched the intake. (one the things the PO took care of, done in a many similar to what you've suggested)