KenRudd

Spurred on by the recent great deal on Eibach springs, and the annoyance of the creaking and groaning of my suspension as I navigate my driveway, parking lots, etc, I'm planning some suspension work.

The spring and shock replacement I've pretty well researched and know what needs to be done.

However, getting rid of as much creaking/groaning as possible is a big WYIAT goal.

The rack and inner+ outer tie rods are about two years old. However, I did not replace those bushings.

AFAIK everything else is original, and has about 88k miles

For obvious reasons, the creaking is hard to pinpoint while driving, and I can't reproduce it while on jack stands. I suspect sway bar related causes as a prime factor, as it typically is worst when turning or asymmetrically going over a bump, which should torque the sway bar to some extent, but it could really be any part of the front suspension.

I've been under there plenty, and don't see anything obviously loose/broken/askew/missing.

What are the likely candidates, what should I replace while tearing it apart?

1. Sway bar bushings?
2. Drop links?
3. Ball links?
4. Steering rack bushings?
4. Other?

nc_growler

Bookmarking this thread because I expect to head over to Ken's and help out when he starts taking action on your suggestions... I need learning opportunities!

KenRudd

Aryan, thanks!

Not seeing any obvious play, but that may be more obvious with wheels/brakes/etc off..

Did not mention: Front Wheel bearings are all <2yrs old as well.

Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net

I have experienced groaning from control arm bushings, so would check those.

87 Shark

I had the same problem with my s4 after replacing the upper control arms and tie rods. I was advised to check my bushings and to lubricate them. Sprayed all bushings with wd40 as well as bolts and nuts that could later need to come apart. The creaks are gone and the car feels less stiff.

BIMMERMIKE

What allowable play is acceptable in upper A arms bushing?

Ethre

You may want to check the bolts holding the steering gearbox (bottom end of the steering shaft, where it connects to the tie-rods). If they come slightly loose, you can get a slight "pop" while turning. I don't know if the design is the same on an 88 (or if I am using quite the right terms to describe it), but if it is I believe you will see the bolts I am talking about.

I'm still trying to tighten it one up on my 82 - I think it may necessitate a metric-offset wrench to get around the swaybar.

KenRudd

Good info so far everybody, thx.

WD40 for bushings?

I'll check the steering box while I'm in there.

terry gt

Had suspension clunks 0n my 91GT 65k , turned out to be the upper A arm bushings . The bushings had worn on the inside . Got the bushing kit from 928 INT. complete with the tooling , what a great product !! Terry

KenRudd

Terry, what was your impression of the upper A-Arm bushing replacement?
I see good directions here:
http://www.928intl.com/repair/upperaarm.pdf

Four bushings look to be about $75 ( or $235 if I go with Carl's upgraded version), so cheap enough to do WYAIT, even if no obvious sign of problems, as long as not a ghastly job.....

Related: Do the lower swing arm bushings ever need replacing?

Skiviking

I'll give you my 2 cents here... Mine is a 86 and last summer I started getting some squeaking coming from what I could hear the front passenger side....but I couldn't reproduce it all the time it would come and go. Finally I had to replace the wheel bearings on that side...did it seemed to have gone away..during the trying to locate this squeaking, I had been advised sometimes the bushings dry out on the sway bar and other links...So I would apply lithuim spray and other non seizing lubes... Then the car went away for the winter...spring I broke it out everything quiet for about a month and then it started sqeaking again...still hadn't found it...Then my steering rack failed and I installed a rebuilt with new tie rods...wow quiet again...still about 3 weeks later during a drive it starts sqeaking again like bed springs..I'm lubed and cleaned everything......so as I was jacking the car up on the pass side for the umpteenth time I was pulling and wiggling the wheel as others had and all was good....but as I let it come down of the jack I decided to put a crow bar under the tire and lift it up...and low and behold it moved about 4mm if that....Well swapped out the lower ball joint even though it still felt tight...and with the new one in I have finally got rid of the squeaking...the lower had just enough room that no lube would stay long so as soon as it dried out it would squeak....3 months no SQUEAK....It almost drove me and my mechanics crazy...granted I still needed to replace and fix the other repairs...but I know now it was an ealy warning to my lower ball joint planning on failing.... Hope this may shed some light on your squeaks..and you can get rid of them cheaply...

Hilton

Workshop manual says to use "Molykote U" on the exposed parts of the bushings - its a graphite/moly paste.

I figured this is to prevent squeaks when the bushings rub against the washers or members, so I hunted around and found a dry-film teflon-based lubricant for mine in the absence of Molykote U suppliers.

auzivision

Mine squeak like an old bed spring... hoping new shocks and springs fix it. Also have greaseable sway bar busing just in case. Ball joints are good and lower control arm is new. What is a good source of Molykote U or dry-film teflon-based lubricant?

Hilton

I couldn't find Molykote U at all locally - apparently not carried in Australia according to the sales rep from Dow I spoke to.

I ended up using CRC's "Dry Film Lubricant" - its a spray can, but should function the same way as Molykote U. It sprays on thick, and requires a 24-hour curing period.

I did notice that Molykote U-N may be similar enough (again not in Oz) to use as a substitute, and its more easily available. (Molykote U-N is a synthetic-base 50% moly paste)

Just make sure that whatever you do use doesn't have a mineral oil base, as that'll react with the rubber bushings.