ptuomov

I am reinstalling the MAF. The engine is in the car (obviously). What is the best orientation of the clamp holding the bottom (downstream) end of the MAF in the boot that holds it to the throttle body? By best I mean an orientation in which I can tighten the clamp around the boot with minimum tear down?

ammonman

On my S4 I have the clamp screw pointed toward the right side. It is easily accessible by removing the right fuel rail cover, unplugging the Knock Sensor connector and inserting a 1/4" drive socket on a long extension through the gap between the intake runners.

YMMV

Mike

Shark_Week

clamp pointing to the passenger side, long 1/4 extension, universal socket. no need to remove the knock sensor connector if you get the clamp orientation just right.

ptuomov

Thanks. Got it done. The clam screw towards the front of the car, with the socket end pointing towards the passenger side. Then a very long screw driver thru the hole in the fuel rail cover. I assume the fuel rail cover has a hole in it just for this reason. Two cuts and blood on the MAF on the outside, the JDS sticker has brown blood stains on it now.

Germans are such clever people that in the next world war I want to be on their opposite side. They always lose, and I can then hunt down the offspring of the engineer who designed this MAF clamp. (Also, if your ancestors were involved in designing that 12-point XZN socket, keep watching over your shoulder...)

Darklands

Yes, we Germans like "über"engineered solutions! ;-)
But we do it on every car in a product batch the same.
Old British car assembler put in every car a different electrical system.
And it´s a fact, Lucas is the inventor of electrical darkness!

Hilton

Are you using a stock MAF boot? If so, are you aware of this?

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...take-hose.html

blown 87

Very true, but to to their everlasting credit, three of the cars they made were free from electrical problems for a period of one year.

jorj7

I'm still using that MAF Boot. It's held up well so far. Of course I'm only
going up to 15 psi max boost. It stays on better then the stock boot and
clamps, but I have been able to blow it off if I don't tighten the heck out of
the T-clamps. Using an 11 mm socket allows me to get more torque on the
bolt then a screw driver.

Tom in Austin

Yep, very long screwdriver from the pass side works beautifully. HF has a set, I think they're 24" long, must have been designed just for 928 MAFs ... lol!

ptuomov

This does not erase the fact that I have 11 small cuts on my hand from reinstalling the maf with it's clamp and straps. The designer of that MAF joint has my blood on his hands!

Yes, I am. No, I wasn't but now I am! ;-) Aware, that is, not using.

We should rank car manufacturers based on the number of different kinds of parts to perform the same function that they have ever installed on the same day. It was somewhat normal for even well managed companies to install revision 1 part until they run out of stock and then start installing revision 2 during the day. So 2 is not great but acceptable. But with French and Italian cars, it seems that they may have installed 3 or even 4 different kinds of, say, fuel pumps in the same car model on the same day.

(The British car manufacturers are excluded from this ranking because I don't think they ever got their production volumes up to more than one car per day. Their cars required so much custom carpentry, I think...)

Can you explain to me how that silicone boot works, especailly with a clamp that is not strapped to the MAF housing? The stock clamp system is apprently designed to work in a way that the steel straps locate the clamp relative to the MAF housing and the stock boot lip locates the clamp relative to the boot. There's no lip in the MAF housing and there's no lip on the silicone boot, so how does an strapped clamp hold it in place? Are you using fabricated straps on the clamp and does the clamp then sink into the silicone?

I am no engineer, but it seems that for just the clamping force to hold the boot in place with no lip or other such contraption would require some serious clamping force.

My screwdriver was long enough, but I had to pull out the provent, the air box, some cold-sdie piping, etc. to use it. A royal pain in the *** figuratively, and in the hand more literally since the various steel straps cut me many times. Death by thousand cuts, almost.

auzivision

Harbor Freight… extra Long 1/4 inch 'wobble' extender... even easier to use than a universal swivel.
Great addition to any socket set:

http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...set-31203.html

Also, I clean the boot with Carb cleaner, then use a little more as a lube to get it on. When it evaporates completely, the rubber is really sticky.

Vilhuer

Flexible clamp tool from Biltema, 7.49€ next time you are in here.

Fabio421

Tuomo, I had a similar issue with my car where the silicon boot would slip off the AFM. I tried putting grip tape around the outside of the AFM where the boot clamped on but it didn't last. I ended up taking an air grinder and a cut off wheel and scoring the area where the boot was to clamp. I didn't score it all the way around because I didn't wan't to introduce a failure point by doing it that way. Instead I just scored it intermtiantly three dashes one on top of the other then an inch of nothing, then three dashes then skip another inch etc. This has worked well for me so far.

ptuomov

Photos?

jorj7

The silicone boot was primarily designed to address the failure of the stock
boot under high boost and temps. Both Tim M and Dave L had similar experiences
as I had with the stock boot "blowing out". The fact that the silicone boot can
use a wider stronger clamp and is more malleable allows it to have more force
applied to the clamp to hold it in place. The 11mm socket on a long wobbly extension
can be tightened a lot more then the small stock clamp without fear of tearing
the boot.

Stock boot from the 2008 Bonneville 100:



New stock boot from the 2008 Pony Express two months later: