Pepper for Coolant leak
09-03-2010, 02:06 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Hi everyone,
It sounds like you folks are advocating the use of Pepper/Ginger Root/Barr's Stop Leak as a preventative or even permanent treatment for radiator leaks as opposed to a roadside repair.
Do I understand you correctly?
It sounds like you folks are advocating the use of Pepper/Ginger Root/Barr's Stop Leak as a preventative or even permanent treatment for radiator leaks as opposed to a roadside repair.
Do I understand you correctly?
09-03-2010, 02:14 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
It depends. I fixed the outward leaking head gasket leak with barrs. Ive helped others do the same. usually, radiator failure leaks are more progressive, as you are usually dealing with plastics. and a front radiator leak out of one of the cross paths, is probably due to a rock cut, and is going to be relatively large. however, if its small, it could be perminantly sealed by Barrs, and not pepper. if you can see it, i would use JBweld and pintch off the cross path pipe where the leak is. if its spraying out. 
mk
mk
09-03-2010, 02:28 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
It is a small leak, about a 2 cup every 600 miles. Leaks from the side tank on drivers side near the top. Looks like a aluminum radiator. Thanks again for all the help.
I was referring to turds and milk because the last time I looked at barrs leak was about 35 years ago and that is what it looked like. Maybe it has changed!
I was referring to turds and milk because the last time I looked at barrs leak was about 35 years ago and that is what it looked like. Maybe it has changed!
09-03-2010, 02:39 PM
#19
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Are the end tanks black, or aluminum? If they're black, you've got the stock Behr radiator with plastic side tanks. It's unusual for the driver's side tank to be the source of a leak, usually it's the passenger side that cracks.
If the side tanks are aluminum, I'd think that you ought to be able to pull the rad and have it repaired.
If they're black, a new side tank is $95 from 928Intl. Get one (with the 2 oil cooler line connections in it) and take it to the guy in Redmond. Lot cheaper than an ~$800ish new one, or a used one with potentially questionable history.
If the side tanks are aluminum, I'd think that you ought to be able to pull the rad and have it repaired.
If they're black, a new side tank is $95 from 928Intl. Get one (with the 2 oil cooler line connections in it) and take it to the guy in Redmond. Lot cheaper than an ~$800ish new one, or a used one with potentially questionable history.
09-03-2010, 06:16 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
My whole radiator is aluminum, tanks included. I checked out the Barrs leak and it is definetly a different formula then 35 years ago. You guys are young ones compared to me.
09-03-2010, 09:09 PM
#21
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
you obviously have not seen Barrs stop leak. there are no "rabbit turds" or anything that is not visably desolved in the solution. You might be thinking of the cracked block formulas, or head gasket leak solutions that DO NOT WORK. (and have piles of copper, stuff and maybe rabbit turds) .
09-04-2010, 01:40 AM
#22
Rennlist Member
I have used Prestone stop leak stuff in an SBC truck once to good and quick effect. I still have a tube on hand, but with the 928 would prefer a permanent fix. Currently on an after market identical copy at 1/3rd the price of genuine.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
