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Brake pads with 51 hours on track!!!!!!

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Old 09-02-2010, 09:16 PM
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IcemanG17
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Default Brake pads with 51 hours on track!!!!!!

What do brake pads look like after 51 hours on track?????? Well this:

Rotors are a bit worn, with slight grooves, but still within spec at 31.4mm and minimum is 30.4...so I'd say they will last another 50+ hours
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Old 09-02-2010, 09:37 PM
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the flyin' scotsman
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Great pics Brian which prompts a question:

why would either side wear more than the other? I assume as the caliper is solidly mounted its the caliper pistons?
Old 09-02-2010, 10:11 PM
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dr bob
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Early brakes with floating calipers. Hopefully floating. If it doesn't, one pad drags a little and wear is uneven.
Old 09-03-2010, 12:03 AM
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IcemanG17
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Originally Posted by dr bob
Early brakes with floating calipers. Hopefully floating. If it doesn't, one pad drags a little and wear is uneven.
bingo....in theory the sliding calipers should wear even, like the driver side did...but passenger side is near 2-1 wear to the inside....but both sides sliders were clean and free of corrision (misspelled)....so I don't know why they didn't wear even.... The only thing I can think of is the weight of the driver and never having any weight on the passenger side....

I am very pleased with the S brakes....pads were about $150 per set..which is still cheap for racing pads (Raybestos ST43)..but 50+ hours of life makes it easily worth it... The added bonus of being fairly kind to the rotors is nice too....
Old 09-03-2010, 02:35 AM
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mark kibort
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the uneven-ness is due to lack of cooling on the outside of the wheel vs the inside that gets cool air. keep in mind, I was able to run a 1:45 at laguna without ANY brakes. So, depending on the HP, that determines the brake wear. lots of trail braking can make pads last an entire race season with a lower powered car. I was noticing your car during the lemons race as really not needing much braking, so its not surprising that they last so long. are those pagid blacks or PCFs or Hawk HT10s? get another 100hp, and suddenly , you may only get 7 hours.
edit:
Oh, just saw. raybestos. those are good pads too!
Old 09-03-2010, 10:59 AM
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123quattro
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Definitely got your monies worth out of those guys...
Old 09-04-2010, 02:32 AM
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IcemanG17
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I highly recommend these pads for ANYONE who drives their 928 on track....I did my track day today and managed my best lap time EVER on just new pads still running the old pads...the brake pedal wasn't bad...but could benefit from fresh fluid.....

While I agree something more powerful than the impressive 203whp the 928 Estate put down in the 103F would wear the brakes more...the lap times this 928 gets on such a small budget speak for itself!!
Old 09-04-2010, 02:36 PM
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Mrmerlin
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Hi Brian you sure were cutting it close, i would suggest to cut the run time in half before replacing the pads it would be best to have atleast 1/2 the original pad thickness remaining before a new set is installed.
You will have a better braking with thicker pads and less wear on the rest of the system.
Old 09-04-2010, 02:49 PM
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mark kibort
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You have to understand, that with this car, on DOTslicks, you dont even really use the brakes! Its a quick stab, if you are doing it right, at only a few turns a lap. However, I do agree that more heat is transfered to the calipers, so it is worth it to change the pads out when they get down to about 4mm. (about 1/4 the pad) It wont help braking, as he is barely keeping the pad temps in the optimal range for max braking anyway! So, you will in no way "help" braking by changing pads earlier.

Brakes are one of those topics that really amuses me. All you need to do, is go to a DE event and watch all the gus in the paddock, struggle, rave, fuss, and talk all about brake fluid, pad changes, brake fade, smoking brakes, smell, etc. Funny, the racers in the pits NEVER have these conversations and for some reason, they are magically running a lot faster and with usually much lesser braking capabilities.

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
Hi Brian you sure were cutting it close, i would suggest to cut the run time in half before replacing the pads it would be best to have atleast 1/2 the original pad thickness remaining before a new set is installed.
You will have a better braking with thicker pads and less wear on the rest of the system.
Old 09-04-2010, 02:53 PM
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mark kibort
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just look at those pads. I just noticed something. If I pulled pads off my car at this thickness, the pads would be crumbling apart like sand and most of the pad would be missing anyway. these pads look like they came off my mom's oldsmobile. The rules of the universe apply to braking systems as well. there is nothing really magical about pad brands in the high performance range. If they last 51 hours, they are not being used much.
Old 09-04-2010, 02:54 PM
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GlenL
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OK!

I'm a 1/3 pad guy. Having boiled the fluid with too-thin pads I go on the safer side.

You need more power! Then you'll need more braking!

Reminds me of the best driving advice I've gotten: "I don't think you need to brake there." Holy Shyte! I'll be faster if I brake less!

After 8 years of DE I'm just now getting to be nearly as good as I thought I was before I started.
Old 09-04-2010, 05:11 PM
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IcemanG17
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Whats funny is I have never-ever faded the brakes on this racer.....even with the stock pads nearly as thin as these ones....

While I do think more HP will cause wear to increase big time.....it would be fun to find out....where did I leave that 100hp??
Old 09-04-2010, 07:24 PM
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Mrmerlin
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anyway a thicker pad will absorb more heat before transfer to the caliper and the brake fluid,
that your not boiling the brakes is a good thing your not using the brakes to the fade/ failure point.
If your Racing about halfway on the pads is a good time swap them out



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