Oily Spark Plug & Cylinder
#16
Team Owner
you have a great camera what kind is it??
Also the flappy stop is missing it looks like the head of a 17mm bolt with a hole drilled off center its tapped onto the roll pin so the flap inside wont close and jamb when the its in the closed position. You can make a new one just cut off the head and drill an off center hole.
Position the nut so it will keep the flap open a bit try not to spin the adjuster on the roll pin as it can shear off.
Set the nut in position then tap it onto the pin a drop of green loctite should hold it there
Also the flappy stop is missing it looks like the head of a 17mm bolt with a hole drilled off center its tapped onto the roll pin so the flap inside wont close and jamb when the its in the closed position. You can make a new one just cut off the head and drill an off center hole.
Position the nut so it will keep the flap open a bit try not to spin the adjuster on the roll pin as it can shear off.
Set the nut in position then tap it onto the pin a drop of green loctite should hold it there
#17
Under the Lift
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I've found loose sparkplugs in a lot 928s. People run them down until they bottom then 1/4 turn or so which hardly seats them. The recommended installation is dry torqued to 18 (or 19) to 22 ft lbs, which feels very tight, but I have not had any problems getting them out later. If anything, they still feel too easy to remove later.
Findng oil pooled in the bottom of throttle housing and a grimy carbon coating on the runners near the heads seems common in cars that are mechanically sound. Running at high RPMs for a long time, like I do, seems to do this from breather mist being sucked into the throttle boot. Maybe the oil filler baffles and some of the other breather mods reduce this, but I haven't yet tried them (will soon as SC is coming off right now for bi-annual smog testing).
Findng oil pooled in the bottom of throttle housing and a grimy carbon coating on the runners near the heads seems common in cars that are mechanically sound. Running at high RPMs for a long time, like I do, seems to do this from breather mist being sucked into the throttle boot. Maybe the oil filler baffles and some of the other breather mods reduce this, but I haven't yet tried them (will soon as SC is coming off right now for bi-annual smog testing).
#18
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This is about the only thing I can think of on a 928 where I am going to not go by the WSM, I am not going to install plugs dry in a AL head in one of my cars or a customers car.
I've found loose sparkplugs in a lot 928s. People run them down until they bottom then 1/4 turn or so which hardly seats them. The recommended installation is dry torqued to 18 (or 19) to 22 ft lbs, which feels very tight, but I have not had any problems getting them out later. If anything, they still feel too easy to remove later.
Findng oil pooled in the bottom of throttle housing and a grimy carbon coating on the runners near the heads seems common in cars that are mechanically sound. Running at high RPMs for a long time, like I do, seems to do this from breather mist being sucked into the throttle boot. Maybe the oil filler baffles and some of the other breather mods reduce this, but I haven't yet tried them (will soon as SC is coming off right now for bi-annual smog testing).
Findng oil pooled in the bottom of throttle housing and a grimy carbon coating on the runners near the heads seems common in cars that are mechanically sound. Running at high RPMs for a long time, like I do, seems to do this from breather mist being sucked into the throttle boot. Maybe the oil filler baffles and some of the other breather mods reduce this, but I haven't yet tried them (will soon as SC is coming off right now for bi-annual smog testing).
#19
Burning Brakes
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I think they are referring to the o-ring seals inside the cam cover. If they get old and cracked they can leak oil into the plug holes. I agree with cam cover job. WYAIT you can repaint them Actually, if I was going to do that again, I think I would see if I could get uncoated ones and put the first coat on them rather than trying to refinish them. Just my 0.02
#20
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you have a great camera what kind is it??
Also the flappy stop is missing it looks like the head of a 17mm bolt with a hole drilled off center its tapped onto the roll pin so the flap inside wont close and jamb when the its in the closed position. You can make a new one just cut off the head and drill an off center hole.
Position the nut so it will keep the flap open a bit try not to spin the adjuster on the roll pin as it can shear off.
Set the nut in position then tap it onto the pin a drop of green loctite should hold it there
Also the flappy stop is missing it looks like the head of a 17mm bolt with a hole drilled off center its tapped onto the roll pin so the flap inside wont close and jamb when the its in the closed position. You can make a new one just cut off the head and drill an off center hole.
Position the nut so it will keep the flap open a bit try not to spin the adjuster on the roll pin as it can shear off.
Set the nut in position then tap it onto the pin a drop of green loctite should hold it there
As for my camera, I used a Nikon DSLR, with a close up lens (AF Micro-NIKKOR 60mm f/2.8D) and a ring light / flash (SmartFlash RF-46N TTL Macro Ringlight) which mounts to the front of the lens. While the choice of DSLR is somewhat important, its really the micro lens (for closeness) and the ring flash (for evenness of exposure) that make the difference. You can get a similar set up from a number of camera companies -- Nikon and Cannon though seem to have the lion share of the market at this point. One note: Nikon calls their close up lenses micros, all others call them macros.
Update: two more quick notes. Photos were shot at f/32 for max depth of field. The intake was shot with an iPhone.
If i can answer any questions about camera equipment, shoot me an email or PM, its the least I can do in return.
Thanks,
Dave
Last edited by aaddpp; 08-24-2010 at 08:16 AM.
#22
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I've found loose sparkplugs in a lot 928s. People run them down until they bottom then 1/4 turn or so which hardly seats them. The recommended installation is dry torqued to 18 (or 19) to 22 ft lbs, which feels very tight, but I have not had any problems getting them out later. If anything, they still feel too easy to remove later.
Findng oil pooled in the bottom of throttle housing and a grimy carbon coating on the runners near the heads seems common in cars that are mechanically sound. Running at high RPMs for a long time, like I do, seems to do this from breather mist being sucked into the throttle boot. Maybe the oil filler baffles and some of the other breather mods reduce this, but I haven't yet tried them (will soon as SC is coming off right now for bi-annual smog testing).
Findng oil pooled in the bottom of throttle housing and a grimy carbon coating on the runners near the heads seems common in cars that are mechanically sound. Running at high RPMs for a long time, like I do, seems to do this from breather mist being sucked into the throttle boot. Maybe the oil filler baffles and some of the other breather mods reduce this, but I haven't yet tried them (will soon as SC is coming off right now for bi-annual smog testing).
Thanks also for the confirm on the carbon coating. Hope all goes smoothly with smog testing.
Dave
#23
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Dave