mark kibort

Wheel works in San Jose, at prospect and saratoga Ave. ask for Cooper. he will set you up. Ill show up and help if you want.

SeanR

Are your inner tie rods in great shape?

tailpipe

don't forget if you have a caliper thats dragging it will pull the car to one side same with a wheel bearing thats starting to go bad but the shop should have noticed something like that i would hope

RKD in OKC

As far as I know all the suspension bits are in good shape. Replaced the rear arm because the blade was bent and made only a small difference.

littleball_s4

Don't feel you have a strange 928. They are all bitches to align. Do a search and you'll see.

1) I think nobody said in this thread (although almost everybody know) that ride height screw things up badly and ride height is not right after jacking the car up and down. You have to drive 20-30km on bumpy road plus some hard stops. It's hard to believe, but it's 100% proven fact.

2) My process after many attempts (at least 4) in good shops with hyperwave / laser / radar alignment system is check and correct camber with a digital level and then:

2a) simple. Check and correct both front and rear toe independently with marks in the floor. Test drive and repeat. Works for small corrections.

2b) complex. Set 2 bars parallel to the car and exactly parallel to each other. It doesn't matter if they are not at the same distance in each side, it's just that the track difference measured in each side is equal (e.g. 10mm wider at the rear in both sides, not 5 and 15) Be careful not to move them or secure them with two perpendicular bars (sort of making a frame) and elastic hooks. It helps if they are level with the center of the wheel, use buckets or whatever you like. Measure all 4 toes at the same time, and correct. Test drive and repeat. Works after big screw up (crash, suspension element change or shop messing up with the car)

Once in a lifetime, a tire is faulty and make the car pull to one side. Put an different (even old or bad size) set of tires if everything else fails.

Good luck!

Vilhuer

Make sure steering rack is centered when alignment is done. It can be done without special factory bolt. Its also possible to do bold from correct size normal bolt. See WSM page 44-5.

UKKid35

What he said. That was the final link in a whole chain of issues that I had to fix before my car stopped pulling to one side.

littleball_s4

Sure, play is obviously not admitted, neither front or rear.

I've also had a problem with the rear cam of the lower A-arm (rear right wheel). It looked tight, but the bolt was not true and it moved randomly from one stop to the other, ruining alignments. I discovered it only with a pry-bar, but the thing was clearly noticeable while driving, it was just not easy to know where did it come from.

littleball_s4

If the play is in the front, as for example, steering rack silent blocks, you will feel it. While cruising at constant slow speed, move the steering wheel at a slow constant rate (say 1cm/s) till the car steers a bit to one side. Then start moving it at the same speed to the other till it starts moving to the other. . If it moves more than 5cm (2 in) it is not acceptable. Also, you will really feel the need to move it faster to avoid crashing.

Up to 6 in (more than 45 deg) had been reported as "sloppy" or "imprecise" steering. "Play" is commonly linked to "clonk-clonk", Steering wheel absolutely free till you find some resistance, and it doesn't have to be like that.