All paint manufacturers have specific processes that vary from one to the next. You can find their procedure and required chemicals on their websites. What works for Glasurit will not work with DuPont. Go to the paint maker's site and find the technical manual for plastics refinishing.

 

You can try 2000 grit sandpaper (wet) and some rubbing compound/hand glaze. Level the paint and polish it out.

 

Mike the stuff is called Dynotron "Flexible bumper repair Kit" made by Bondo Corporation. It has stood the test of time for me, 10 years and still good. Like anything let it go off properly even though it is two pack. That is let all the sink back happen, e.g put it in the sun for while. Use course grit, around 36 to 40 I have found works well and you have to do this job while on the car. It is a bit of a muck around but you will get a big improvement over stock. If you need anymore info or pics, let me know, they are on the other computer which is in retirement.

Greg

 

 

Did I ever say that the other companies are utilizing improper techniques? I don't think so. I said "...as long as you use the correct primer..." Maybe their primers aren't fit to use without the flex additive on flexible bumper covers? I'm not implying they are inferior products; they just require different techniques. You seem very adamant to prove yourself as knowing everything about the only way to do this.

Those companies recommend the flex additive because they have to. They can't account for every situation. I'm sure their products work great with a flex additive. I didn't use any, and as evidenced by the performance of my work, I didn't need any with the products I used.

The only difference in the bumper now is the weight of the splitter has cracked around the area I plastic-welded the turn signal shut. There are no other cracks, splits, peeling, or crazing in the paint.

 

Hey Mark,
Do you have any pics of your bumper/headlights?
I'm adding projector lights and signals to my car and would like to see some ideas.
My plan now is to fab a piece to go into the opening with duct vents and holding a stock turn signal unit at the corner. The area to the center isn't usable for ducts and a high beam of some sort would work well there. I do know I don't want anything heavy and the stock lights and that metal inner bumper certainly are.

 

Mike,

Something like this? I'd give you a good deal on the whole setup, as I will probably eliminate the lights on this car all together. I bought this from Ken when he was doing some work on projector lamps, and I fabbed up a small bracket to hold the LED turn signal.

 

Hmm..
That looks pretty good. I'd probably want to make some fancy mounting stuff myself but I would like to chat on the phone. PM sent.

 

mark, your car looks spectacular! how were the times. where was that, RA?

 

Mark, thanks man. It's a sensitive subject. I finished the car over two years ago but have only taken it on the track twice, once for a shakedown when it wasn't even aligned! My dad has driven it quite a bit though, and it really is wonderful to drive. At RA I believe he was in the high 1:30's with a good bit left in it. I'm thinking it will be good for around a 1:30 on a serious flyer with the new engine, a limited slip, and a few updates I'm planning on doing.

Right now it is out of commission, as I only replaced the rod bearings in the 140k+ engine, and it needs a head gasket. I have a low-mile engine I'll be partially rebuilding, modding, and swapping into it this offseason, and I'll also be doing some other work on it that it has been needing. Once I get around to working on it, I'll post up some updates.

It will definitely be back on track next season, as it will be a big part of marketing our new company. I've just been so busy lately I haven't had time to work on it.