polecat702

To weld it the right way, you have to pull the engine. Remove the girdle cut and resection the areas to be welded. This can't be welded unless it's totaly free from contaminates. It must placed in an ultrasonic bath to clean all the chemical residue from the aluminum. It must be preheated prior to welding. You would need a donner girdle to secure the replacement section. It's more work than it's worth. Get a replacement block.

blown 87

In case some of you do not know, Joe is to welding, what GB is to engines, I would listen to his advice when it comes to welding stuff.

76FJ55

If the final intent is to replace the block/engine I don't think you could go wrong trying to bond the existing girdle and run it. There are some really good structural adhesives available these days. I've attached as couple Tech Data sheet of a few that I'm familiar with. The first two are Hysol products (now owned by Locktite), and the third is an aluminum filled Devcon as an alternative to the Steel filled Devcon mentioned earlier in this thread.
The Hysol Ea9394C-2 has the highest elevated temp strength, but requires an elevated temp cure (200F). You can probably attain this using heat guns and some aluminum foil to trap the heat in the localized area. The Ea9394 is essentially the room temp cure version of the Ea9394C-2, but has slightly lower mechanical properties.
As for the Devcon I would look at using the aluminum filled over the steel filled. It is unlikely that you would have any problem as the steel will be pretty well encapsulated, but it could be possible to run into galvanic corrosion issues between the steel filling and the aluminum casting.
In all reality if you follow BradWs suggestion of bonding in with the addition of the doubler, I'm guessing the repair will last as long as you care to leave this engine in place.

Mrmerlin

When i worked at Hughes aircraft we were bonding aluminum fittings onto the ends of hollow beryllium tubes this was flight hardware used in satellites the tubes would break before the bonding failed,
We used MEK to clean the parts

James Bailey

Glue it back together and run it. Get what value you can from the current engine. S-4 engies are probably just going to get cheaper as more cars are not worth the costs of restoring especially if in a minor crash.

dcrasta

Some guy on pelican redid his mains with the motor in the car, so he removed the Girdle without taking the motor out of the car.

I believe he suspended the crank and removed the girdle. If you do that (Remove the girdle from the block) I would think a pro welder can fix the damage, and then you just check the girdle for straightness, pop it in, check the bearing clearances, and if it's good, u are good.

If that doesn't work, at least you tried the 'cheaper' route first. I personally don't trust JBweld in oily environments.

Roy928tt

Right ! Already it is the 11th of August. This thing could have been fixed by now and back on the road.

Bog it up with Devcon and be done with it !

Cheers Roy

Brad W

Removed the A/C bracket. This one should be easy to fix.

tailpipe

OK from my past experiance rebuilding and tig welding the shattered oil cooler thermostat housing and alt/power steering lugs on the smorgasporshe the "best" way to fix that is to pull the motor. The cast aluminum girdle is only 4000 series cast aluminum it can be welded just fine in place. Porsche castings are very very good very little porosity, a good cleaning is all it needs the hard part will be getting all the old JB weld and crap off I sugest a small grinder and/or cut off any extra suspect dirty parts. Just lay rags down inside the motor to catch the pieces. Filler pieces can be made of pretty much any aluminum, I have had the best luck with the 6061 series aluminum its the most common thats extruded. The set up and fitting will take the most time it doesn't have to be perfect aluminum floats over gaps very well much better than iron the most important part of the set up will be getting the boss for the compressor in the right place and the level area for the pan gasket in place for tacking, all the rest just has to keep the oil in it doesn't have to be pretty if you guys were closer I would say bring it down I would fix that in a couple hrs. I'm actually repairng two more alt/power steering accident victims in the next few days. Good luck guys its not as bad as you think pull the mill, find a good welder, set it up well and no worries. If anyone else has something like this that they need fixed and is close feel free to drop me a line (I work cheap)


Paul with 5 rescued 928s

fraggle

The depth and breadth of knowledge on this forum continues to astound me.

AO

Alumiloy?

soontobered84

Brad and I (well Brad mostly) got the front piece fabricated. It incorporates a couple of the holes for the PS/alternator bracket and one of the holes for the pan. It fits up snug and Brad has the welder coming by this weekend sometime to TIG it up in situ. I got most everything moved out of the way so the welder can get to the parts easily. Brad is going to make a jig to bolt into place the bits so that everything aligns properly while welding. Should be a good and permanent fix.

mickster

Here's an S4 Long Block from Henry at Los Angles Auto Parts:

http://shop.ebay.com/losangelesautop..._from=&_ipg=25

$1,549.00.

Michael

Jim M.

John/Brad,

Sorry I'm not there but please take lots of pictures. This is a repair that can be used by many in the future.

Warren928

The welding supply companies now sell some really cool and somewhat expensive TIG rod that will weld almost any aluminum alloy back together. I had a problem this year with a dock that had 1/2" thick tabs made of crappy porous pot alloy, and my pro welder guy put it back together with that special welding rod. I would go for it and do it with the engine still in place. Flatbed it to the welder, then get it all setup on some hefty jackstands for him.