Tony

If it were my car...

Since you appear to still have the piece that was cracked/chipped out i would clean it up install the broken part then have a welder simply "tack" it in place. I think the key is not to introduce a lot of significant heat in one localized area of the block to prevent any significant warping..

I would tack... let it cool cool...tack...cool...and repeat and do this in several spots. You could actually seal the crack with a series of tack welds in a line along the crack....just give adequate cooling time to prevent heat build up.

As for issue 2... the mating surface with the gasket i would NOT WELD there. I would simply try and get the area as smooth as you can for a mating surface with the pan gasket. Use JB weld to "push into the exposed crack along the mating surface then sand it smooth/flush.


My block was cracked in a similar spot but not nearly as bad as that. I used JB weld to seal the crack and it been bone dry underneath for over two years...no issues.

You dont want anything to do with getting a new block unless you have the $$$ and the time for the project. There are many little costly items in a rebuild from the poitn you are at now...gaskets...seals..rings...etc etc.

tailpipe

Just a tip guys when you are finished welding spread JB weld over the welded area to fill in any small holes you might have missed just some added insurance that it doesn't leak oil good luck take your time it will turn out well

Paul

Imo000

Paul... you did something like this in the past, right? I fainlty remember seign a post you had on a block that you welded up.

Tony's post is dead on........for what I would do.

Jim Devine

consider using some of this to limit the heat transfer to areas like the oil pump (o ring),
front crank seal & where the block "splits"



http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/we.../HANDIJIG.html.




When you are done, if the pan mounting surface is a little off, TOYOTA has a great form in place gasket sealer (FPIG)

Part # 00295-00103
Per box: " toyota seal packaging 102 (fpig)
for oil pan/ camshaft housing"

Brad W

No he had to work this weekend, we might try after work one night this week. I do have some Elmers glue that might hold up.

Jim M.

Post some before welding pics! Please

Brad W

new crack

Brad W

every thing is in place and ready to weld. I made a few practice runs on scrap aluminum just in case the aircraft welder fails to make it.
I made a mock up oil pan out of some old 1/4 inch aluminum to check for fitment. All holes line up well in both the pan and the alt brkt.

SeanR

Dang, was just trying to up load those. Well done Brad.

IcemanG17

since good replacement motors are pretty cheap I would just change the entire engine....its really not that hard to swap engines...I've done it TOO many times.....

SeanR

This has kinda turned in to a challenge for us in DFW. I can imagine that most places would just JB weld the parts back up, but Brad (being the aircraft engineer that he is) has set up jigs.........sets.........all sorts of crap. Really cool to watch.

I'm sure we could have had a new engine in there and him on the road already, but why not try something we haven't done so far? :{)

ROG100

Brad - Way to go.

Brad W

I got a welder named JB. He is a little mixed up but ready to do the job.

6mil928

Yep build it up with JB and just live with it. It might leak a bit but make due till the engine fails. Heck it might hold and not leak for years. It was holding when he bought the car.

tailpipe

After all the fitting and fiddling the welding is kind of an anticlimax it goes way faster than you are dreading don't worry about the heat the aluminum transfers the heat so fast nothing close should cook to bad just watch out for radiant heat from the ark buring/melting stuff hanging close with a good modern welder this should go way easy coat the inside and outside with jb weld to seal it when its cool,clean up the pan gasket surface and you are good to go.

good luck guys
yes Imo i have done this before should be pics on here somewhere link anyone?


Paul