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Timing belt brain fart

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Old 08-05-2010, 11:58 AM
  #16  
backnblack
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
Matt-

We haven't heard from you in ages. I'm sure we can get it back together - running. It's not trashed. Let's just slow down a little and fingure it out. We can get it lined back up and check compression. You might get lucky - you never know.

The annual Hell gathering is this weekend. WOuld love to see you if you can make it. It's been too long.
Thanks AO I'll let you guys know. As I consider myself greatful for how my life is I don't find myself lucky in this since, that would be like lottery lucky. but I guess you don't know if you don't play, right.

Cheers
Matt
Old 08-05-2010, 12:09 PM
  #17  
blown 87
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Originally Posted by backnblack
Thank you Greg I know I need to stick with it but the next time I'll know not to mix cocktails and work on my car at the same time
I appreciate the offer on the head gasket, it's not about the money as much as it is about the time away from my daughter.

Regards
Matt
I agree, you may have learned a lesson that has cost others fingers and other parts, do not drink while working on things.

Don't give up, help is out there.

Old 08-05-2010, 12:54 PM
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backnblack
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There lies the real problem! The only time I can enjoy a little drink is when I’m In my garage kingdom working on something LOL. And no I don’t mix power tools /running motors /saws /hammers , after I have mixed a martini
Old 08-05-2010, 12:57 PM
  #19  
backnblack
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Well after coming into work and the guys giving me a bunch of crap about this I guess I should take responsibility for what I did and try to fix it.
As much as I want to blame George Bush (joke) I have no one to blame but myself I know what I did wrong ( twice ) But I do not know how to get back to the starting point that I need to be at.

I don't want to believe that I have done any real damage to the valves yet but I cannot turn the motor by hand. I can feel it hit at a certain spot and it stops.

I don't think I am on TDC #1cylinder (this is one of the things I know I did wrong )
After I take everything back apart ( Belt on or off ) How or where can I turn the cams so that I can turn the crank to the proper position to start all over from scratch.

Thanks guys for your support it means allot to me.
Old 08-05-2010, 01:23 PM
  #20  
Bertrand Daoust
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Don't feel bad about your misadventure. Those thing can happen to anybody.

Fix it and you will feel prouder than ever to have brought you car back to life.

I can't help you mutch but I'm sure you will get ALL the technical support you need on Rennlist.
Many guys here are simply amazing.
Way better than many Porsche dealers.

So take all the time that you need and make it roll again!

Everything will go well.

...And keep the Martini for once your day is over...
Old 08-05-2010, 01:42 PM
  #21  
auzivision
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If you can't turn the crank by hand, don't try forcing it... remove the timing belt and see if you can get the cams rotated into the 45 degree position (only turning clockwise). See pics below to get a better idea of what uyou are trying to achieve.

Cams in TDC:
Name:  Cam TDC.jpg
Views: 49
Size:  121.3 KB

Cams at 45:
Name:  Cam 45 degree.jpg
Views: 76
Size:  91.4 KB

At the 45 position, the crank can be turned without pistons hitting valves. My guess is the cam won’t want to turn because the valves are bent. You would expect a little pressure turning cams to over come springs, but don’t force them. Might try moving the repositioning the crank to a different position if they bind… pretty much a game of hit or miss.
Old 08-05-2010, 02:26 PM
  #22  
backnblack
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Hello Kurt,
That is the position the cams are in now at the 45deg. marks ( like in the 2nd picture ) and I get about a 1/4 turn on the crank before it feels like I'm hitting something.

Regards
Matt
Old 08-05-2010, 02:32 PM
  #23  
Glen McCartney
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Matt,

I would think the best way to move forward wold be to pull the cams so that all the valves close and then move crank to 45 degree position and re-install the cams.

Wondering if a leak down test can be performed with the cams pulled to see if there are any cylinders with bent valves. Others would know better than I.
Old 08-05-2010, 02:34 PM
  #24  
Imo000
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Do you have the spark plugs out?
Old 08-05-2010, 02:57 PM
  #25  
SQLGuy
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Originally Posted by Glen McCartney
Matt,

I would think the best way to move forward wold be to pull the cams so that all the valves close and then move crank to 45 degree position and re-install the cams.

Wondering if a leak down test can be performed with the cams pulled to see if there are any cylinders with bent valves. Others would know better than I.
Yes, it can, and is a good way to see whether/where there are bent valves.
Old 08-05-2010, 03:11 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Glen McCartney
Matt,

I would think the best way to move forward wold be to pull the cams so that all the valves close and then move crank to 45 degree position and re-install the cams.

Wondering if a leak down test can be performed with the cams pulled to see if there are any cylinders with bent valves. Others would know better than I.
A simple compresson test with the cams out is faster.
Old 08-05-2010, 03:15 PM
  #27  
backnblack
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Originally Posted by Imo000
Do you have the spark plugs out?
No that's how this whole thing started, not taking the plug out and making sure I was on TDC#1

But as soon as I can get the crank to turn enough to check that I will be pulling the plug.
Old 08-05-2010, 03:27 PM
  #28  
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Pull all the plugs straight away, then you know you are not dealing with compression so it will easier to feel the crank.

I managed to make a similar fckup during my rebuild because I didn't put the balancer back on and assumed I was at 45 BTDC when in fact I was at TDC. However, I still managed to rescue the engine without pulling the cams. Nevertheless, if that is an option it is definitely the answer.

The problem is that you can spin the cams when the engine is at 45 BTDC, but AFAIK there is no cam position where you can safely spin the crank.

Don't give up, just go really slowly, and coax the crank to 45 BTDC and then you are safe. Obviously there is the possibility that damage has already been done, but that is not a certainty as I can attest.
Old 08-05-2010, 03:34 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by auzivision
...
At the 45 position, the crank can be turned without pistons hitting valves. ...
I do not believe that this is correct. With the belt off (cams not turning) some of the valves will always be open, and the crank cannot be turned without pistons hitting valves, somewhere.

Matt, can you turn the crank -- either way-- to line up the 45-degree mark? (Turning the engine backwards is verbotten because the belt can skip, but the belt is either off or messed up anyway).

With the crank at 45-degrees, then all of the pistons are far enough down the cylinder that it is safe to rotate the cams without interference.

What you want to do then, with the crank at 45-degrees and the belt off, is rotate each cam clockwise to the corresponding 45-degree mark and then reinstall the belt-- see Kurt's second picture "Cams at 45"-- the notch in the sprocket is about 3 teeth to the left of the notch on the rear cover (remember that the cam turns once for every two revolutions of he crank).

Then, with the belt on correctly, turn the engine over by hand (always clockwise, and without spark plugs) to double-check the marks at 0-deg TDC. If all that checks then you can crank the engine and check compression-- that will tell you if the valves are ok.

Last edited by jcorenman; 08-05-2010 at 04:21 PM. Reason: Corrected picture referecence
Old 08-05-2010, 04:03 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by jcorenman
I do not believe that this is correct.
Sorry for the bad info, definitely the opposite of what I said is true... cams can turn, but not the crank. So the object still is to get the both the crank and cams into the 45 degree position, just in the opposite order… first work on getting the crank there, then the cams will be easy.

However, getting the crank to 45 is going to take a trick. It’s still going to be a series of hit an miss until you get both into the 45 position. With the belt off and the plug out, you might be able to feel yourself around. Taking the cams off would be one way to over come this dilemma.

What other ideas to people have out there to get the crank to 45?



Originally Posted by jcorenman
I
The mark shown in the picture is the TDC mark, not 45-degrees.
As indicated on my post one picture is at TDC and the other is at 45-degrees


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