Tips, etc, on rear shift coupler bushing replacement?
#32
Rennlist Member
Tip for a stripped grub bolt
Here is a tip for extracting a stripped grub screw.
I decided to replace the bushing on my rear coupler. However, when I inspected the grub screw it looked pretty chewed up by someone's previous attempts to change it. I think they gave up.
I was able to hammer in a 4mm allen drive and put some pressure on it so I thought I would give it a try after I heated it up with a torch...
I made a heat shield using some 6" vent duct. I just cut off about 8"
I was able to drape the heat shield above the assembly. Here you can see my allen drive. It was stuck in there good after wacking it with a hammer so I decided to leave it in while heating.
Here you can see I am able to get fairly precise with the torch without concern of melting the undercoating.
Ok taking this pic while holding a live torch was a bit tricky. But it's for posterity!
After heating, I was able to put about 10nm of torque on the grub using the alien, but it just stripped out. So I had to resort to my bolt/screw extractor tools to get it out. Can you guess which tool I used?
Here is the Irwin cap screw extractor in action. To start it out, you tap it with a hammer gently to get the teeth to bit. Tapping it drives it in reverse so as you remove the screw it drives in the teeth.
Once I felt it had bitten I very gently started applying torque to the bit. I didn't want it to strip out. I would say it broke loose with about 25nm of torque which is a LOT
Here you can see the screw mostly out.
And voila! it's out. You will notice some aluminum bonded to the threads. That was some serious Locktite!
Anyway, I home this was helpful for you all.
Mike
I decided to replace the bushing on my rear coupler. However, when I inspected the grub screw it looked pretty chewed up by someone's previous attempts to change it. I think they gave up.
I was able to hammer in a 4mm allen drive and put some pressure on it so I thought I would give it a try after I heated it up with a torch...
I made a heat shield using some 6" vent duct. I just cut off about 8"
I was able to drape the heat shield above the assembly. Here you can see my allen drive. It was stuck in there good after wacking it with a hammer so I decided to leave it in while heating.
Here you can see I am able to get fairly precise with the torch without concern of melting the undercoating.
Ok taking this pic while holding a live torch was a bit tricky. But it's for posterity!
After heating, I was able to put about 10nm of torque on the grub using the alien, but it just stripped out. So I had to resort to my bolt/screw extractor tools to get it out. Can you guess which tool I used?
Here is the Irwin cap screw extractor in action. To start it out, you tap it with a hammer gently to get the teeth to bit. Tapping it drives it in reverse so as you remove the screw it drives in the teeth.
Once I felt it had bitten I very gently started applying torque to the bit. I didn't want it to strip out. I would say it broke loose with about 25nm of torque which is a LOT
Here you can see the screw mostly out.
And voila! it's out. You will notice some aluminum bonded to the threads. That was some serious Locktite!
Anyway, I home this was helpful for you all.
Mike
#34
Drifting
#35
Three Wheelin'
MB, great job and fantastic write up!
Reading it brought back my ham-fisted, hillbilly attempt at doing this same job, in which I may still have PTSD.
I will post a link here in the same thread for future generations that may need a salvage solution. When I read it, I forgot how many people helped me that week...
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ewed-me-2.html
Reading it brought back my ham-fisted, hillbilly attempt at doing this same job, in which I may still have PTSD.
I will post a link here in the same thread for future generations that may need a salvage solution. When I read it, I forgot how many people helped me that week...
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ewed-me-2.html