How many miles do you get to a new set of tires?
07-28-2010, 10:03 AM
#1
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How many miles do you get to a new set of tires?
I am curious about how many miles everyone is getting to a set of tires, and the brand/type/size.
I have: 225/40ZR-18 and 285/30/18 Sumitomo HTR Z III XL on both my 78 and 89. Both sets of rears were shot between 9-11K, both fronts still good.
I have: 225/40ZR-18 and 285/30/18 Sumitomo HTR Z III XL on both my 78 and 89. Both sets of rears were shot between 9-11K, both fronts still good.
07-28-2010, 10:17 AM
#2
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Rears about 4k and fronts lots.
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
I figure for every second my the tire looses traction is good for $5
07-28-2010, 10:31 AM
#5
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I put so little mileage on my car that they will be too old before they are too worn. I'd be perfectly happy with 10k tires - I'd get a ton of stick out of them and wear them out around the time that they got too old.
07-28-2010, 10:45 AM
#6
How long is a piece of string?
The number of miles/kilometre you get out of a set of tyres/tires depends on a lot of factors:
1. You driving habits - "peddal to the metal" - fast cornering, and hard braking or doing burn outs, or only occasional spirited driving,
2. Your wheel alignment, ride height adjustment and your corner balancing.
3. Your tyre pressure,
4. The type of tyres you choose, soft or hard, winter or summer or snow and ice, whet or dyr to suit where you are and your driving habits.
5. Silicone based rubber with low rolling resistance.
6. Wheel balancing, and
7 How old you are.
I'm on my third set of tyres in 10.5 years, the first set were nearly worn down to the 2mm bars, the second set had around 80% tread when fitted, as I purchase a set of wheels with the tyres fitted, I fitted a new set of tyres on the front nearly three year ago and I still have over 7mm of tread left and I fitted an new set on the rear last December with tread depth of 7.8mm. So one could say that I'm on my equivalent of my second set of tyres in 53,000 kilometres.
At each yearly service I check the ride height, I take the average tread thickness of each tyre, I have a fully operations RDK tyre pressure monitoring system and if I detect any out of alignment wear pattens I have a wheel alignment at my trusted wheel alignment expert who does 928s, I check the slackness of the front wheels steering rods and check the front wheel bearing for slackness.
If you look after your tyres they will look after you.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
The number of miles/kilometre you get out of a set of tyres/tires depends on a lot of factors:
1. You driving habits - "peddal to the metal" - fast cornering, and hard braking or doing burn outs, or only occasional spirited driving,
2. Your wheel alignment, ride height adjustment and your corner balancing.
3. Your tyre pressure,
4. The type of tyres you choose, soft or hard, winter or summer or snow and ice, whet or dyr to suit where you are and your driving habits.
5. Silicone based rubber with low rolling resistance.
6. Wheel balancing, and
7 How old you are.
I'm on my third set of tyres in 10.5 years, the first set were nearly worn down to the 2mm bars, the second set had around 80% tread when fitted, as I purchase a set of wheels with the tyres fitted, I fitted a new set of tyres on the front nearly three year ago and I still have over 7mm of tread left and I fitted an new set on the rear last December with tread depth of 7.8mm. So one could say that I'm on my equivalent of my second set of tyres in 53,000 kilometres.
At each yearly service I check the ride height, I take the average tread thickness of each tyre, I have a fully operations RDK tyre pressure monitoring system and if I detect any out of alignment wear pattens I have a wheel alignment at my trusted wheel alignment expert who does 928s, I check the slackness of the front wheels steering rods and check the front wheel bearing for slackness.
If you look after your tyres they will look after you.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
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07-28-2010, 10:55 AM
#8
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I figure I'll have to buy new rears every year (about 5k miles) and fronts every two years. Sure you can buy higher mileage tires but they will suck both in terms of performance and noise.
07-28-2010, 11:00 AM
#9
Drifting
Car came with four new tires and about 75K on the clock. First I replaced the rears, then the fronts, then the rears, and now the rear need replacing again. Clock read just about 103K now.
I guess that’s about right.
I guess that’s about right.
07-28-2010, 11:31 AM
#11
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Tim--
What does the wear on the rears look like? Factory-recommended tire pressures on the rears almost always cause more wear on the center bands. I can remember noticing this on 928's I followed in traffic long before I even thought of owning one. Now, with modern tire technology, the need to run high tire pressures in sub-100 MPH street use is pretty much gone. After that basic issue, the wear on the throttle pedal, fuel economy and tire life are joined forever. The pedal is replaceable, fuel is still available, and there are a few places that sell tires, so all is not lost.
In the front, the biggest killers of tires are poor alignment and mechanical condition of the suspension/steering, driving style, road hazards. Tire pressure is important too, but the other things seem to be most prominent.
Answers to your question: With all the alignment numbers spot-on now, I can get 15-20k from a set of 17" Mich PS-2's in casual driving. If I decide to take advantage of the performance just a bit, those numbers drop. Worst I've seen is 12k from fronts when I did a couple laps a week on my favorite local mountain drive.
The car has almost 100k on it now, with just-installed Boge/Sachs shocks and Eibach springs. My favorite local mountain road has been closed for almost a year now, thanks to consequential damage from a major brush fire. A ravaged state highway trust fund means that it's on a very slow path to recovery, but it is being worked on at this point. Anyway, with the tighter suspension, travel should be better-managed and tire life should improve some, so long as I don't take advantage of the improved handling feel.
What does the wear on the rears look like? Factory-recommended tire pressures on the rears almost always cause more wear on the center bands. I can remember noticing this on 928's I followed in traffic long before I even thought of owning one. Now, with modern tire technology, the need to run high tire pressures in sub-100 MPH street use is pretty much gone. After that basic issue, the wear on the throttle pedal, fuel economy and tire life are joined forever. The pedal is replaceable, fuel is still available, and there are a few places that sell tires, so all is not lost.
In the front, the biggest killers of tires are poor alignment and mechanical condition of the suspension/steering, driving style, road hazards. Tire pressure is important too, but the other things seem to be most prominent.
Answers to your question: With all the alignment numbers spot-on now, I can get 15-20k from a set of 17" Mich PS-2's in casual driving. If I decide to take advantage of the performance just a bit, those numbers drop. Worst I've seen is 12k from fronts when I did a couple laps a week on my favorite local mountain drive.
The car has almost 100k on it now, with just-installed Boge/Sachs shocks and Eibach springs. My favorite local mountain road has been closed for almost a year now, thanks to consequential damage from a major brush fire. A ravaged state highway trust fund means that it's on a very slow path to recovery, but it is being worked on at this point. Anyway, with the tighter suspension, travel should be better-managed and tire life should improve some, so long as I don't take advantage of the improved handling feel.
07-28-2010, 11:42 AM
#12
Been selling Twinkies on Ebay,
have some extra cash right now.
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have some extra cash right now.
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I get maybe 4K out of a new set, but I tend to view tire costs as an operating expense, like fuel or oil, rather than an investment to be conserved.
And those HTRZ lll's used to be a softer compound than they are now. They went from about a 220 to about a 380 IIRC, but they didn't change the tread pattern.
And those HTRZ lll's used to be a softer compound than they are now. They went from about a 220 to about a 380 IIRC, but they didn't change the tread pattern.
07-28-2010, 11:49 AM
#13
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On my 78, with a good alignment and ride height correct , I am getting even tread wear, and at 11K the rears are at the wear indicator.
On my 89, Bad alignment, and front ride height too low, I have excessive wear on the inside of the rears, at 9K. Early on, I lowered the tire pressures as I noticed a little more center wear. I a replacing the front a-arms and raising the ride height, and replacing the rear tires.
Mostly what I am trying to figure out is if the car is spot on, what tire life average can I expect with which tire brands. Since I am running one of the more cheaper tires, I was wondering if other (more expensive brands) might be a better deal in the long run.
On my 89, Bad alignment, and front ride height too low, I have excessive wear on the inside of the rears, at 9K. Early on, I lowered the tire pressures as I noticed a little more center wear. I a replacing the front a-arms and raising the ride height, and replacing the rear tires.
Mostly what I am trying to figure out is if the car is spot on, what tire life average can I expect with which tire brands. Since I am running one of the more cheaper tires, I was wondering if other (more expensive brands) might be a better deal in the long run.
07-28-2010, 12:13 PM
#14
Nordschleife Master
Put Kuhmo XS's on my '92 w/ a 180 tread wear rating...I bet I didn't get 2500 miles out of the rears! They are slicks now! The fronts are showing some inside shoulder wear (and you can't flip them) but I figure one more set of rears (the expensive ones of course) and then I'll just replace them all. I have just put those Sumitomo's on my '94 Tim, so I hope they will last a bit longer... I had MX Kuhmo's on the 94 before these Sumitomo's and they probably didn't last 6k miles...
07-28-2010, 12:17 PM
#15
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I'm not sure that the PS-2's I use were designed for life over performance. I happen to really enjoy the ride quality and available performance but seldom take anything close to full advantage.
There are Mich Pilot AS versions that have high UTQG life numbers, but I'm not sure that there's a true linear relationship that says that the AS version with UTQG 400 is really a third betterin tire life than a summer Pilot tire with UTQG 280. Plus the AS tires tend to be noisier.
The local Pep Boys offers a 50k mile guarantee on a R-rated 225-16 house-brand tire that I could put on the original wheels. Well under $400 for the set. Probably won't happen while I'm alive though.
There are Mich Pilot AS versions that have high UTQG life numbers, but I'm not sure that there's a true linear relationship that says that the AS version with UTQG 400 is really a third betterin tire life than a summer Pilot tire with UTQG 280. Plus the AS tires tend to be noisier.
The local Pep Boys offers a 50k mile guarantee on a R-rated 225-16 house-brand tire that I could put on the original wheels. Well under $400 for the set. Probably won't happen while I'm alive though.