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My very special message to the PO

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Old 07-26-2010, 07:37 PM
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pcar928fan
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Originally Posted by VehiGAZ
Ooooh... that's a good one!! I feel for you! I and my mech spent a lot of time trying to figure out why my windows worked without the key in the ignition (killing the battery when the sticky passenger window switch stuck in the UP position), only to find that two adjacent relays were reversed, so the window power never shut off.
Gaz,

Can you post more info this here or on a new thread? I have that problem with my '92 GTS and it wouldn't surprise me a bit if that were the issue... That car will suck a battery dry in a week!
Old 07-27-2010, 02:15 AM
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I would like to thank all my previous owners for giving up all my gems and making them available for me to enjoy
Old 07-27-2010, 08:03 AM
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NoVector
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Originally Posted by pcar928fan
Gaz,

Can you post more info this here or on a new thread? I have that problem with my '92 GTS and it wouldn't surprise me a bit if that were the issue... That car will suck a battery dry in a week!
James – It’s probably an interior light staying on. If you want, you can loan it to me for a couple weeks and I’ll sleep in it and let you know
Old 07-27-2010, 10:32 AM
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VehiGAZ
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Originally Posted by pcar928fan
Gaz,

Can you post more info this here or on a new thread? I have that problem with my '92 GTS and it wouldn't surprise me a bit if that were the issue... That car will suck a battery dry in a week!
It's a long story, and I solved it by backing into it, but essentially the car had two relays (IX and XI) reversed - my intensive washer relay was in the window relay socket and vice-versa.

The effect of this was that the window circuits stayed energized after the ignition was switched off. And like others, my passenger-side window switch was sticking in the UP position, so I would pull into the driveway, roll up the windows (didn't yet notice the pass window switch stuck), and park the car. The window motor was still drawing current from the battery, so I'd have a dead battery when I came back to it in a few days. Anyway, correcting the relay positions solved the initial problem, although there were some complicating factors in addition.

James, start with pulling fuses in a closed and shut-down car to find which circuit is drawing the current. Alan was immensely helpful in explaining the electrical functions of the circuits I was working with and helped identify and solve the problem.

Good luck!
Old 07-27-2010, 08:06 PM
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docmirror
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Originally Posted by john bono
Oh, and I am certainly looking forward to going under the center console. He told me "the stereo doesn't work". I'm certain it has nothing to do with reversing speaker polarity, whatever other electrical nightmares await me.
Blame the geek in me. Speakers don't technically have a 'polarity'. They do however have a phasing when used as a stereo pair. The way the signal is propagated around the voice coil determines if the speaker cone goes out or in. When they are in phase, the sound is more accurate and realistic, when they are out of phase it can sound stuffy or canned.
Old 07-27-2010, 10:00 PM
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Alan
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Originally Posted by john bono
... Then I start pulling the connectors, which seemed superglued to the box.
The relays can be hard (use a pry tool with the battery off - not pulling on the cans... However if the loom connectors on the bottom are really hard to pull (on a >84 car) you probably didn't pull out the red release tab in the bottom center of the panel - with this undone they should lever out with no major issues...

This also helps to avoid snapping off all the little retainer tabs on the top...

Alan



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