Delco Alternator Conversion - updates needed?
07-25-2010, 06:11 AM
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Delco Alternator Conversion - updates needed?
A while back there was a huge thread (link) about using a Delco cs130 on early sharks. I have read, and re-read the thread, but am still a bit unclear about some of the details of the mod.
I live in Norway, with a 1980 928S (Euro) just out of storage, that is giving me hell. On top of everything else, the alternator is now dying and replacement here is about $450. So, when I can get a reman delco here for $50 it seems tempting. But, I don't want to end up with an extra unit that doesn't fit or work. Over here, there aren't any small workshops that mod, test or repair these things anymore. Its straight swaps with new units, so no help to be found.
The previous owner has obviously replaced with a non orginal unit, and ditched both the ventilation cover and the temperature sensor (which I think causes AC probs - no?). So, it seems like an easy swap for me to go for the Delco.
Can anybody help me with these questions:
1. Is it as good as its made out to be - a simple and effective swap, that lasts?
2. Is there a specific model of the CS 130 i need, or are they all alike? I just need the standard 90amps I think.
3. Can I switch the pulley myself to the V-pulley - is it a straight swap?
4. Can somebody help a ten thumbed electrician (me) with a clear wiring instruction - what goes where etc.
5. Do I need to make some kind of ventilation cowl, or does it sort itself out down in the hot depths?
6. There was some question about a resistor, but no clear answer if it is needed or not. Will I need a resistor?
I hope that this thread can create the definitive set of answers about the conversion.
Regards from a sunny Oslo (light almost 24hrs at the moment)
SimonC
I live in Norway, with a 1980 928S (Euro) just out of storage, that is giving me hell. On top of everything else, the alternator is now dying and replacement here is about $450. So, when I can get a reman delco here for $50 it seems tempting. But, I don't want to end up with an extra unit that doesn't fit or work. Over here, there aren't any small workshops that mod, test or repair these things anymore. Its straight swaps with new units, so no help to be found.
The previous owner has obviously replaced with a non orginal unit, and ditched both the ventilation cover and the temperature sensor (which I think causes AC probs - no?). So, it seems like an easy swap for me to go for the Delco.
Can anybody help me with these questions:
1. Is it as good as its made out to be - a simple and effective swap, that lasts?
2. Is there a specific model of the CS 130 i need, or are they all alike? I just need the standard 90amps I think.
3. Can I switch the pulley myself to the V-pulley - is it a straight swap?
4. Can somebody help a ten thumbed electrician (me) with a clear wiring instruction - what goes where etc.
5. Do I need to make some kind of ventilation cowl, or does it sort itself out down in the hot depths?
6. There was some question about a resistor, but no clear answer if it is needed or not. Will I need a resistor?
I hope that this thread can create the definitive set of answers about the conversion.
Regards from a sunny Oslo (light almost 24hrs at the moment)
SimonC
07-25-2010, 08:57 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
I'm running two of them on 84 cars.
No problems. Work fine.
Cross reference the 1988 105 amp alternator for a Camaro. That works. For me in the USA using parts stores, these clerks can't identify the alternator as CS 130. I need to give them a specific car/year, that's why the Camaro reference.
The pully can be switched directly I think. Mine did not need to switch. Others reported a straight swap.
Wiring is easy. I can talk you through it. One of the 84 cars is on jackstands getting steering and transmission work now, so good photos are possible if needed.
Screw the shroud. Just drive it. Unless in Oslo you are on gravel all the time, in that case I'd fashion a fine mesh screen around it and forget it. You have more problems to worry about, this isn't one. I've driven it in heavy rain. Seems ok.
No, you won't need a resistor unless its bad now. The resistor was added when they decided to reduce the wattage of the instrument bulb. There is a section in the 928 electrical training document that describes the change and the year. Either way, unless your bulb and/or resistor are bad now, it should work fine. Easy enough to change them, too, if needed by removing pod. Its only hard if you obsess over it.
No problems. Work fine.
Cross reference the 1988 105 amp alternator for a Camaro. That works. For me in the USA using parts stores, these clerks can't identify the alternator as CS 130. I need to give them a specific car/year, that's why the Camaro reference.
The pully can be switched directly I think. Mine did not need to switch. Others reported a straight swap.
Wiring is easy. I can talk you through it. One of the 84 cars is on jackstands getting steering and transmission work now, so good photos are possible if needed.
Screw the shroud. Just drive it. Unless in Oslo you are on gravel all the time, in that case I'd fashion a fine mesh screen around it and forget it. You have more problems to worry about, this isn't one. I've driven it in heavy rain. Seems ok.
No, you won't need a resistor unless its bad now. The resistor was added when they decided to reduce the wattage of the instrument bulb. There is a section in the 928 electrical training document that describes the change and the year. Either way, unless your bulb and/or resistor are bad now, it should work fine. Easy enough to change them, too, if needed by removing pod. Its only hard if you obsess over it.
07-25-2010, 09:05 AM
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Thanks for the encouragement, reassurance and the details.
Does your 84 model have exactly the same fittings as the 80 models. I know that some things were changed around then, but maybe not the fittings.
I would appreciate some good photos, and I think it would be useful for others too. The same goes for the electrical installation - what goes where, where cables are run and joined and how etc.
Thanks
SimonC
Does your 84 model have exactly the same fittings as the 80 models. I know that some things were changed around then, but maybe not the fittings.
I would appreciate some good photos, and I think it would be useful for others too. The same goes for the electrical installation - what goes where, where cables are run and joined and how etc.
Thanks
SimonC
07-25-2010, 10:16 AM
#5
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OK, will do later this morning.
The mounting changes for the 32V cars. I think the mounting is the same, based on other references such as ducman's, for all the earlier cars. Only difference is V pulley vs grooved pulley. (One guy did take earlier power steering mountings and fit them to 32 V car, but the car was a real frankencar)
Like those before me, I used three washers to fill the gap because the alternator is slightly narrower than the slot it fits in where big piovt bolt goes and the alternator fits sandwiched into the mounting at that place.
I chose to eliminate the nice tensioning bolt from the factory (so I didn't have to grind the mounting) and used a simple thru-bolt to pin the adjustment point. I think I used a slightly smaller diameter belt in the process to allow this.
The electrical connection requires a plug for the alternator, then splicing a wire.
My preference, for the record, would be new Rhone or Bosch (factory rebuilt) as replacement. But I needed to draw the line at spend at that point. Just needed to get onto the road. May replace later but I doubt it. 928fixer was an early pioneer of this swap, so check his comments via search, he's done it on earlier cars.
The mounting changes for the 32V cars. I think the mounting is the same, based on other references such as ducman's, for all the earlier cars. Only difference is V pulley vs grooved pulley. (One guy did take earlier power steering mountings and fit them to 32 V car, but the car was a real frankencar)
Like those before me, I used three washers to fill the gap because the alternator is slightly narrower than the slot it fits in where big piovt bolt goes and the alternator fits sandwiched into the mounting at that place.
I chose to eliminate the nice tensioning bolt from the factory (so I didn't have to grind the mounting) and used a simple thru-bolt to pin the adjustment point. I think I used a slightly smaller diameter belt in the process to allow this.
The electrical connection requires a plug for the alternator, then splicing a wire.
My preference, for the record, would be new Rhone or Bosch (factory rebuilt) as replacement. But I needed to draw the line at spend at that point. Just needed to get onto the road. May replace later but I doubt it. 928fixer was an early pioneer of this swap, so check his comments via search, he's done it on earlier cars.
07-25-2010, 10:30 AM
#6
one thing i would like to update is the vent cowl for the alt. here in Albuquerque NM, it gets hot, and after driving in traffic i will see the votls go down a few. but being that the volt meters are not that accurate from the factory i dont take much stock in what it says. with the delco there is not alot of room for the cowl even if it did fit. the oil pressure sensor is darn close. im thinking of making some kind of stainless cover in my metals class when i get a chance, or even a fiber glass wrap of some sort to help get cold air in. if it will make a difference, who knows.
