Jim Chambers

First, thanks to all who have responded to my various "how to" questions.
Turned out to be far easier than I thought. Maybe it was easy because I worried myself to sleep every night for the last several weeks.

I got the top front TT bolts out with the clutch in place. Took about 10 minutes per bolt using a wrench recommended from Rennlister Brad Smith ($11.99 adjustable handle length 3/8 drive ratchet from HF).

On a late ('90) 5 speed the front of the shaft extends less than an inch into the bell housing. I left the 2 bottom rear TT to tranny bolts in place finger tight and removed the lower 2 in the front.

Then I removed the two bolts holding the trans. mounts to the crossmember.
I could then pry the tranny back about an inch while my helper supported the front of the TT. Then I tipped the tube down to clear the bell housing, swiveling the tranny down at the front. He removed the final two rear bolts and we pulled the tube forward to clear the trans. input shaft and dropped it down.

The job was much easier because I had the luxury of a 4 post lift. And I used
4x4's under the shaft at both ends for security.

Landseer

Great post!

CorsePerVita

LOL that's funny I remember thinking "I wonder if Jim is on this forum... I'm gonna check the 928 section" and this post was here!

Yeah that wasn't too bad! But you're right, we're only 50% done lol!

Jim Chambers

Now that Derek caught me I had to edit to accurately state who did what on the final drop!

Imo000

Wow...... so much less pipes on the back of a 5-speed. The automatic has one cooler line on each side pf the TQ, then the hard line at the top of the TTand then shfter cable. Makes it a very tight squeez.

Well done!

Black Sea RD

Yes! When I did my auto to 5 speed conversion on the 1986.5 track car I was really impressed by how much simpler the 5 speed set up is compared to the auto version with all the extra ATF lines. Not too mention how much lighter the 5 speed trans was compared to the auto.

Good clean looking job by the way! Congratulations on getting it done Jim!

Cheers,

James Bailey

I really thought it was best to remove the clutch but you show it is not needed ..good job !

Mike Frye

Bravo!

I've done that 'worry until the parts pretty much fall out on their own' several times with my car. Well done and great post.

Jim Chambers

I was intimidated by the WSM description of clutch removal, making shims and all, which I really didn't understand. Couldn't visualize the reason for them. I have removed many 911/914 clutches but this seemed quite different. I suspect that those with 928 clutch experience would be better off to remove the assembly rather than deal with the tedious job of removing the upper bolts. And I will not be able to torque them properly on reassembly, which could be done with the clutch out.

Tube is on its way to Constantine tomorrow. I hope to be driving while there is some summer weather left. I bought the car last November but did not really drive it unitl March. Had one great 30 mile drive before I discovered that all hell broke loose at 5000 rpm. That 30 mile drive showed me that my GT is the best Porsche I have ever owned. And I have had about 40 since 1968. I like the GT far better than my wife's '04 Boxster, or the 993 and 997 that we once owned. I have also owned a '78 928 5 speed (100 less horsepower), an '81 automatic, two '84S automatics and an '87S4 automatic. The GT is the most fun of all. Hoping I can get at least 1000 miles or more 928 seat time before the snow flies.

Iwanna928

Jim It sounds like youneed to move to a warmer climate so you can enjoy your car more!

Nice job!

dprantl

Is it this one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...het-98802.html

Or maybe this one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...het-96369.html

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

Jim Chambers

The top one, 98802. The most difficult part of the job was "cracking" the top bolts. I was able to do one with the HF wrench but used a long breaker bar and socket for the other. Once they were loose I used the ratchet and socket until they were out about 3/4 inch, then I could use fingers on one. The other required a short extension so as to get the wrench in around the bellhousing "web", since as the bolt came out it would jamb the ratchet.
The best thing about this ratchet is that it seems to have more teeth than most, so it will grab and turn with very little handle movement in the tight space.

Stromius

Great Job Jim!

What was the time line to do the job end-to-end? I'm going the same route and want to plan accordingly.

Jim Chambers

First I must emphasize that the 4-post lift made things go much faster for me than if I were on my back on the concrete using stands (but I am 68 years old and not so nimble as I once was). Working in a quite deliberate manner (unfamiliar jobs make me go slow, one of the things age teaches) I spent about 4-5 hours one day removing the air cleaner assembly and cross brace over the engine unplugging the O2 sensor wire inside the car and pushing the wire out, removing the exhaust (in two pieces), the heat shield pieces, the two cross brackets under the tube and the lower bell housing/clutch cover. I then had to stop because I did not have a 10mm 12 point bit to remove the front clamp bolts ($29 from SnapOn, living in a small town has disadvantages).
I only worked about an hour on day two, removing the front and rear clamps, removing the shift ****/boot and disconnecting the shift rod at the tranny.
Day three, about an hour removing the front TT/bellhousing bolts and the top 4 TT/tranny bolts.
My friend then showed up unexpectedly so we spent less than an hour moving the trans back, dropping the tube and then removing the shift linkage.

I think a job like this is best done spaced out over a few days.