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Later 928 running hot? Maybe this is why

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Old 07-12-2010, 09:28 PM
  #16  
worf928
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Originally Posted by dprantl
And I wonder how fast the coolant level would go down if coolant was being lost via steam.
About a tablespoon per mile of mixed-driving. BTDT. It was a bitch to figure out too until I just happened to hear that little #@$%^ing sensor hissing...
Old 07-12-2010, 10:25 PM
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AO
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Camboinc's sensor blew apart. Still didn't find it right away. Rev'd up the engine and ... THAR SHE BLOWS! Little bitch.
Old 07-12-2010, 11:01 PM
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mark kibort
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generally, the steam from boiling raises the volume, and before it could ever condense, even if it could, it wouldnt as the volume would just go up, pushing the water out the overflow tube via the pressure cap.
we have some experience here. with scots bad headgasket, he would run the car with the overflow going to a bottle in the cabin. when it got to be 1/2 gallon full, he would start to over heat and have to come in. usually after 5 -7 laps.




Originally Posted by dprantl
I was wondering if the water could boil, turn to steam, then condense back when it reaches the expansion tank if it doesn't go via the pressure sensor. And I wonder how fast the coolant level would go down if coolant was being lost via steam. Thoughts?

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Old 07-12-2010, 11:10 PM
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Old 07-12-2010, 11:15 PM
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Whoa, whoa, whoa. I flunked phyisics (can't even spell it right) and a lot of other stuff a LONG time ago! So what you're saying is delete the sensor? I really do not understand, so please do not flame. If the sensor does not work why is it there and what COULD happen if its not? It's kinda like Porken's tensioner (which I have) No loose TB message means I'm SOL if something is going wrong and that kinda concerns me. Is there a serious jepordy by not having something to tell you that you're overheating too or am I reading this thread wrong? Just askin'.
Old 07-12-2010, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Ninespub
Whoa, whoa, whoa. I flunked phyisics (can't even spell it right) and a lot of other stuff a LONG time ago! So what you're saying is delete the sensor? I really do not understand so please do not flame. If the sensor does not work why is it there and what COULD happen if its not? It's kinda like Porken's tensioner (which I have) No TB message means I'm SOL if somethings going wrong and that kinda concerns me. Is there a serious jepordy by not having something to tell you that you're overheating or am I reading this wrong? Just askin'.
Ok, so this is not the coolant level sender, that one stays and works just fine. I am talking about the coolant pressure sensor. It is almost useless; basically it detects minor variations in coolant level between a cold and warm engine, so if you fill up the coolant *exactly* to the mark, you may get a coolant level warning when the engine is fully warmed up (I think it was actually Porken that just posted Porsche's explanation about this pressure sensor in a recent post). Almost no other car in the world has it and they run just fine without it. Just delete it and fill the coolant slightly above the mark and you will be fine.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Old 07-12-2010, 11:18 PM
  #22  
Erik N
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Ideal Gas Law: PV=NrT

P= pressure
V= volume
N= # of moles (molecules)
r= constant
T= temperature

Pretty sure that's right. I learned it in 7th grade IIRC (but that was about 30 years ago)

Old 07-12-2010, 11:18 PM
  #23  
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I've never heard of someing getting a "coolant" warning becasue of this sensor. This particular sensor is there to tell you the system is over pressurized (basically that your expansion tank cap has failed.) And after seeing Camoinc's litterally explode, I say get rid of it.
Old 07-12-2010, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Erik N
Ideal Gas Law: PV=NrT

P= pressure
V= volume
N= # of moles (molecules)
r= constant
T= temperature

Pretty sure that's right. I learned it in 7th grade IIRC (but that was about 30 years ago)

Too bad it doesn't also work for liquids Oh, and it's a small 'n' and big 'R'.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Old 07-12-2010, 11:26 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by dprantl
Too bad it doesn't also work for liquids Oh, and it's a small 'n' and big 'R'.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Friggen over-achievers.
Old 07-12-2010, 11:34 PM
  #26  
Erik N
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
Friggen over-achievers.
Well, it WAS 7th grade, and obviously my knowledge base hasn't increased much...

That's an achievement in itself!
Old 07-12-2010, 11:41 PM
  #27  
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I was impressed with you. My comment was directed at Dan for correcting you.
Old 07-12-2010, 11:45 PM
  #28  
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I don't get this either - cutting the wires isn't going to make the engine run cooler. It could eliminate getting false warnings, but who gets overheating warnings when you're not over-heating?
Old 07-13-2010, 12:01 AM
  #29  
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No... don't cut the wire. It's an in-line sensor. Remove the sensor and replace with a shunt so the coolant can flow through as needed.
Old 07-13-2010, 12:07 AM
  #30  
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Here is the simple of it.

If that sensor goes, and it causes loss of pressure, your system will overheat.

Pull the sensor out of the loop and put in a barb. Keep the senor connector open, there is no issue.


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