The New 928 motor mounts with pictures
#61
Rennlist Member
But, some of us are living on the other side of the globe, and to order simple things as Volvo engine mounts from the US when the local Volvo Dealership is right across the road is somewhat silly.
I for one have the engine out, and ready to go in. I just did a check of the mounts and found one to be shot, hence changing both.
For me to order from the US it will take lots of time, + I have to take the parts through customs which includes an additinal handling fee (like 35$) and import tax (20%).
Ive been lurking on this forum since 2004. Yes, 2004 and the question about the Volvo mounts was my first post since I was not able to find it through searching. As for the rest of the info I needed through my various projects and restorations I have found it by searching.......
Happy New year to you all, and keep up the good work on this great forum.
#62
Sorry to bring up this old post again, but I have a question regarding installment of the Volvo motormounts. Or actually motor mounts in general. The "Engine Bracket" #928 375 069 01 has a hook or finger that fits under a corresponding finger in the other side of the motor mount. With my old, broken MM's they didn't touch each other. Now however, they will touch after installation. My guess is that they'll reduce the freedom of movement of the engine and they'll transport vibration of the engine.
What is the function of the hooks? When it is to prevent breaking of the MM's when lifting the engine, that's something to remember and not do (never did). Can the bottom one be left away?
What is the function of the hooks? When it is to prevent breaking of the MM's when lifting the engine, that's something to remember and not do (never did). Can the bottom one be left away?
#63
Rennlist Member
IIRC, the "fingers" are to keep the engine in place should a motor mount break or fail to hold the engine. Mine have not caused any problems with the volvo mounts in place
#64
Team Owner
Thread Starter
IIRC the fingers are designed to keep the engine from moving too far if its involved in a crash .
Once the engine is installed the fingers will separate but you need to make sure they are parallel to each other when you install them,
otherwise they will rub on each other and this noise/vibration will be felt
Once the engine is installed the fingers will separate but you need to make sure they are parallel to each other when you install them,
otherwise they will rub on each other and this noise/vibration will be felt
#66
Rennlist Member
I do
#67
Team Owner
Thread Starter
yes Bart everyone still has the fingers in place its part of the assembly, unless you have replaced the MMs with solid mounts
#68
Rennlist Member
Just installed Volvo mounts last week on an 84.
Fingers are just short of touching. With a tiny bit of settling it will be perfect.
I've installed 5 sets of mounts. Volvo is the first set that worked as advertised, holding engine so that pan elevation is just above cross member.
Found one problem on my car. The little "wing-style" heat shields on each mount were missing. In my case probably due to MDS headers. The Porsche mounts that were new about 7 or 8 years ago failed. The extra heat probably helped make that happen (speculation). Am looking to fab or find some replacements.
Fingers are just short of touching. With a tiny bit of settling it will be perfect.
I've installed 5 sets of mounts. Volvo is the first set that worked as advertised, holding engine so that pan elevation is just above cross member.
Found one problem on my car. The little "wing-style" heat shields on each mount were missing. In my case probably due to MDS headers. The Porsche mounts that were new about 7 or 8 years ago failed. The extra heat probably helped make that happen (speculation). Am looking to fab or find some replacements.
#69
Team Owner
Thread Starter
the heat sheilds are a good thing to have,
to keep the mounts from overheating and failing
to keep the mounts from overheating and failing
#70
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Bart Jan asked a question and i now have more info to address his concerns
That is the the fingers touching after the mounts have been installed,
this is due to the mount being a bit taller than some of the previous versions,
and or the mount not settling as much as the earlier versions.
Here is how to fix it.
once the mounts are installed and you have aligned the fingers of the lower pads to the mount hooks,
(this can be done by tapping the finger pad with a screwdriver)
If the fingers are touching then it is easily fixed.
To do this you need a 1/2 inch drive extension and a 17MM socket and a jack.
the extension has to be about 6 inches long.
so put the socket and extension on the 17mm bolt thats next to the mount hook.
Put the jack under the extension and very carefully jack the extension onto the bolt,
this will lift the engine and the hook,
thus pulling the finger pad with it,.
NOTE.... WARNING .....you dont need much lift ,
you only need to see the finger move ever so slightly.
You can jack the car off the stands if your not careful.
If, after a few tries this still isnt enough,
get a drill bit or dowel and slide it between the finger and the mount hook,
then jack the socket extension,
this will easily bend the finger just enough to clear,
as the mounts settle in there will be more clearance.
That is the the fingers touching after the mounts have been installed,
this is due to the mount being a bit taller than some of the previous versions,
and or the mount not settling as much as the earlier versions.
Here is how to fix it.
once the mounts are installed and you have aligned the fingers of the lower pads to the mount hooks,
(this can be done by tapping the finger pad with a screwdriver)
If the fingers are touching then it is easily fixed.
To do this you need a 1/2 inch drive extension and a 17MM socket and a jack.
the extension has to be about 6 inches long.
so put the socket and extension on the 17mm bolt thats next to the mount hook.
Put the jack under the extension and very carefully jack the extension onto the bolt,
this will lift the engine and the hook,
thus pulling the finger pad with it,.
NOTE.... WARNING .....you dont need much lift ,
you only need to see the finger move ever so slightly.
You can jack the car off the stands if your not careful.
If, after a few tries this still isnt enough,
get a drill bit or dowel and slide it between the finger and the mount hook,
then jack the socket extension,
this will easily bend the finger just enough to clear,
as the mounts settle in there will be more clearance.
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 03-09-2013 at 07:52 PM.
#71
Good idea Stan, I've not had an issue on any car but my own and since the change have a slight vibration. This will address it for me. Thanks.
#72
Burning Brakes
Hey What is the Volvo part number ? I work at dealership group that has Volvo dealership and would like to see what price I can purchase at?
#74
Burning Brakes
I' d like to have original Volvo PN too...
Little story: when I bought 2 rear headrests for my previous 635 in TX , I payed 100 dollars(at that time 85 euro) for items plus shipping to Italy.
in the end I payed 283 dollars (240 euro ) for those headrests and taxes.
I don't want roger and other will lose customer, but I will find the parts by myself because for those volvo mounts from US I will pay the same as those expensive porsche original mounts.
If anyone in Europe is interested in that Part number send me a private message , I already am on the right way to find the PN.
Francesco
Little story: when I bought 2 rear headrests for my previous 635 in TX , I payed 100 dollars(at that time 85 euro) for items plus shipping to Italy.
in the end I payed 283 dollars (240 euro ) for those headrests and taxes.
I don't want roger and other will lose customer, but I will find the parts by myself because for those volvo mounts from US I will pay the same as those expensive porsche original mounts.
If anyone in Europe is interested in that Part number send me a private message , I already am on the right way to find the PN.
Francesco
#75
You can get the part at www.928sRus.com or roger@928srus.com or give him a call at 817-430-2688. Roger will have the part probably cheaper than the dealer, since it is sourced from a supplier and not a dealer, can ship it cheaply (worldwide by the way) quickly and besides you would be helping our good English friend out whom did all the work to research a better alternative to the Porsche and Anchor parts. Besides, he does'nt bite.