The New 928 motor mounts with pictures
 

I got a set of the new style Motor mounts From Roger@928srus.com for my 86 as the engine was sitting pretty low.
The mounts had been replaced a few years ago but i dont think these were good mounts to begin with.( they looked like Anchors and were filled with liquid)

Anyway removal of the old mounts was straight forward.
I use the 2, 2X4 method to support the engine, the new mounts are quite a bit taller than the previous Anchors.
I measured about 90MM face to face on these new Volvo mounts.

The new mounts required some different assembly techniques to install them.

Normally with the Anchors a few fender washers are placed on the tops of each mount for an additional 3mm of lift.
Then both of the mounts are bolted to the lower crossmember with the bolts slightly loose and the top mounting bracket is secured to the fingers and tightened.

Anyway these new mounts didnt need any spacers.

I found that the new mounts will be a bit harder to align with the crossmember and the engine mounting ribs, as they are pretty tall.
This throws off the level of the mounting flange that attaches to the engine not by much but its enough to not want to be prying on parts to try to force the mounting brackets onto the engine while working on my back.

Heres how I got around installing the new mounts.

Had I done this to start with it would have saved some time,
as i tried to install them the same way i would have installed the Anchors ( with both mounts attached to the crossmember)

What i did was to install both of the top brackets to the mounts , note make sure the top bolt is centered in the mount .
Then assemble this to the the crossmember .
I also had to prealign the lower locating pins to match with the crossmember prior to tightening the top brackets,
leave the finger pads off for this step.

Next I decided to install the crossmember with both of the mounts attached to the crossmember and the finger pads installed.
Well i got it jacked into place the there wasnt any way that the top mounts were going to slide into the engine ribs as both of the top mounting flanges were slightly bent sideways from the added height of the new mounts.

So i removed the crossmember and removed the right mount from the crossmember and bolted this mount into the engine ribs with the bolts a few turns loose so it could move.
( note the finger pad will fall off ,it can be placed on the lower mount stud and held with a rubber band, when the mount is removed from the crossmember)

Then i put the crossmember back onto the jack and jacked it into position the left side went in no problem the right side I needed a small bit of prying on the lower stud to fit it into the crossmember mounting hole, but it went in rather quickly once i figured out the trick of one mount on the crossmember then one on the engine.

After this it was simple reassembly and then once the weight was on the mounts the engine sits just above flush with the lower crossmember and this is , without the rack or lower plate on.

Prior to tightening the lower mount bolts use a punch or screwdriver to move the lower mounts so they are as close to concentric with the lower pin cutouts, this should prevent the fingers from tapping on the upper flanges.

All in all i am quite happy with these new mounts,
the quality seems a few grades in quality higher than the previous Anchor mounts ,and they are taller.
Note the bolts on the mounts though are thinner than the Porsche mounting bolts but its not a big deal there.

I found the engine is sitting high in the saddle.
I also strongly suggest that you look at the other parts of the engine, for clearance issues

I did a bit of investigating .
What i found was that,
The fuel line cooler lines were a bit closer to each other so i bent them away from each other.
The exhaust was hitting on the LF and center heat shields , so a bit of bending to the shields and all is well.

Also with the Ott X pipe the O2 sensor was hitting so another bend to the RF shield cured this issue.

Other than that its a straight forward install.


Road test: the engine seems to be quite a bit smoother than the Anchors were ,
and these new mounts are also liquid filled.
If your considering replacing the engine mounts in your car,
I would strongly suggest that you consider these as an option, by following the assembly procedure I did, you shouldnt have any issues.

Ahh the other thing i forgot to mention the A/C and oil pan, and Alternator are now about 1 inch farther from the ground, this is a good thing.

I want to thank Roger for taking the time to search out a better alternative to the Porsche and Anchor mounts, these seem to be a great alternative, so now we get to see how long they last, Stan

Thanks Stan. Just got my first set today in the mail. I'm running 3/4 inch below the cross member with set of new solids (a year old, 3000 miles). Time to change / methods will help me.

Thanks for posting the write up, the timing could not have been better. My mounts are due in this week, and it my next project in the list.

Thanks,
Dave

Have you noticed any settling? or is the engine staying up a bit?

well they just got put in today so settling probably will take a while if it happens at all, I would expect some settling though

My '87 will need to have mounts replaced when I swap its engine...question...what is the upside to these volvo mounts compared to the solid mounts that motorsports sells? Or, is there an upside to the solid ones?

Frank

I've only put about 400 miles on mine since the wild dogs of the DFW crew slammed them in inside of two hours. I think they have settled the slightest bit. To date, the ride difference is incredible. 57K on the odometer now - hopefully these things will hold tight till 100,000!

Sean put in a set of the new engine mounts a few weeks ago, and I have driven from the Dallas-Fort Worth, Texas area to Anchorage, Alaska. The drive itself was 4,039 miles on my gps, plus many miles in the DFW area before the trip. So far I am very happy with the change in the 1988 Porsche 928 S4. The road in some spots is not friendly to shocks/struts, or engine mounts. Frost heaves make for interesting driving experiences. The engine mounts are doing their job.

I'd say that's one hell of a testimonial...

Well, the solid metal mounts are probably fine for the track. The rubber mounts that 928motorsports sells don't really fit that well.

The If you compare the Volvo mounts to the stock Porsche mounts, they're virtually identical. Not a surprise considering that Porsche did some of the design work for the 2.3L Volvo engine.

Are you saying that Porsche did some of the work on the B23 and B230?
Those engines were based on much older engines like the B21, that i believe was based on a tractor engine.

The 16 valve head on the B23 was designed by Porsche if the **** I read on the internet was correct.

I have a few thousand on my Volvo mounts that the gang at DFW put in for me during a tech session. They haven't settled an appreciable amount and the intake is still slightly above the crossmember. sure is nice to not pucker my butt when I go over something wondering if it is going to take out my oil pan or any other low hanging fruit.

Thanks for the explaination. I learn something new on this site everyday! If not for these vovlo mounts, what else are people installing for motor mounts other then the new volvo solution and the mortor sport options? (just trying to better understand the options and the ups and risks). Thanks.
Frank

I've installed 4 sets of solid rubber Anchor/Corteco/Ford mounts on my cars. (apparently the India-based manufacturer and general design are the same --- and quality has greatly deteriorated since they were selected, removal / short changing of amount of rubber in the solid mount according to what I've read here.)

Only one set in 4 is questionable right now. Will verify reasons after removal.
Its getting replaced with this Volvo set, just arrived Saturday.

The Volvo set is the only alternative I've seen presented, and it was located with much research.

Porsche factory mounts are also used, but 4 sets of those would equal the combined acquisition cost of the last two red daily driver 928's I bought.

Once the car is clean underneath, installing mounts is not that big a deal.