Thrust bearing failure (TBF) when is it absolutely critical?
#17
Instructor
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Thanks guys,
point is that my engine still turns over smooth, starts and sounds normal. I'll have to say, I do have a very good ear for all mechanical stuff - that's my fate... Except the endplay there's absolutely nothing strange on that motor - even two old friends from German pff (both long-term mechanics and shark specialists) listened and drove my shark and were very positive how good the engine is responding etc.
Anyway, I'm crying in my beer...
point is that my engine still turns over smooth, starts and sounds normal. I'll have to say, I do have a very good ear for all mechanical stuff - that's my fate... Except the endplay there's absolutely nothing strange on that motor - even two old friends from German pff (both long-term mechanics and shark specialists) listened and drove my shark and were very positive how good the engine is responding etc.
Anyway, I'm crying in my beer...
#18
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Additional query:
Are there some better replacements for the OEM-bearing? Can you get them over sized?
I dunno have the money for doing lots of experiments, so my question is, should I put the bucks on replacing the bearings OR on a spare engine (from which I also don't know the true condition unless I open it)? Is it possible to check it without pulling the engine (by removing the front axle)?
Are there some better replacements for the OEM-bearing? Can you get them over sized?
I dunno have the money for doing lots of experiments, so my question is, should I put the bucks on replacing the bearings OR on a spare engine (from which I also don't know the true condition unless I open it)? Is it possible to check it without pulling the engine (by removing the front axle)?
#19
Hi Hayk928,
At this point the safest and most prudent thing to do is to pull your engine and tear it down to see what you've got. Trying to save time/money by doing it in the car will not save you either in the long run since a correct rebuild of the engine will require it to be pulled. This is even if there is no block damage.
Good luck,
At this point the safest and most prudent thing to do is to pull your engine and tear it down to see what you've got. Trying to save time/money by doing it in the car will not save you either in the long run since a correct rebuild of the engine will require it to be pulled. This is even if there is no block damage.
Good luck,
#20
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Hi Hayk928,
At this point the safest and most prudent thing to do is to pull your engine and tear it down to see what you've got. Trying to save time/money by doing it in the car will not save you either in the long run since a correct rebuild of the engine will require it to be pulled. This is even if there is no block damage.
Good luck,
At this point the safest and most prudent thing to do is to pull your engine and tear it down to see what you've got. Trying to save time/money by doing it in the car will not save you either in the long run since a correct rebuild of the engine will require it to be pulled. This is even if there is no block damage.
Good luck,
It is hard enough to do with it on a stand with the heads on.
#21
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There was a thread on Pelican where someone did bearings without removing the motor. In the end he 'admitted' it was much more difficult without pulling the motor. You could be approaching the limits of the freeplay. If its driving and running well now, I would take that as a sign that 'I have a few moments left before it goes downhill'...
#22
Rest in Peace
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There was a thread on Pelican where someone did bearings without removing the motor. In the end he 'admitted' it was much more difficult without pulling the motor. You could be approaching the limits of the freeplay. If its driving and running well now, I would take that as a sign that 'I have a few moments left before it goes downhill'...
It takes about four folks to hold the rods out of the way when you put the crank in to keep the rod bolts from hitting the crank.
I will not do another one with the heads on it, but it can be done.