Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

4.7 16v euro engine

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-20-2010, 04:58 PM
  #1  
dan928
Intermediate
Thread Starter
 
dan928's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Haywards Heath UK
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default 4.7 16v euro engine

Hi everyone,
Bought a 928 s Auto 1982 4.7 16v with head gasket damage.
When I bought the car started the engine and it run very rough at idle as well as when accelerating it.
Done the head gasket job after reading some very helpful threads on this forum and got all the parts from 928srus (thanks Roger).
Put new spark plugs in and cleaned the distributor cap and rotor arm.
Started the engine but it run very rough at idle and when accelerating it was a bit better but still not right.
Read some threads about cleaning the mechanical injectors and decided to replace with new ones.
New injectors in, engine starts and idles better but noticed it's a bit lumpy when cold.
After a few minutes when it warms up it idles ok.
Driving it in the town, keeping the revs up to about 2000-2500 is fine but if I put my foot down engine dies and then it idles very rough. Five minutes later engine runs fine again untill I go above 2500 revs.
I know there's a lot of things to check or change but I don't know where to start. Thinking about changing all the leads, rotor and distributor cap, but what else should I look for and add on my shopping list? Any help will be much appreciated.

Dan
Old 06-20-2010, 05:12 PM
  #2  
Ducman82
 
Ducman82's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Marysville WA
Posts: 6,983
Received 18 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

how is your fuel pressure? check for vac leaks.
Old 06-20-2010, 06:49 PM
  #3  
Lizard928
Nordschleife Master
 
Lizard928's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Abbotsford B.C.
Posts: 9,600
Received 34 Likes on 25 Posts
Default

This car uses CIS.
Also known as K-Jetronic.

You really need to get a proper set of CIS guages.
I would bet the WUR needs to be replaced/rebuilt.
Its also possible that the distributor has some gunk build up inside of it.

However, first things first is to replace the green wire and check timing.
Old 06-21-2010, 12:30 AM
  #4  
soontobered84
Rennlist Member
 
soontobered84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,984
Received 282 Likes on 199 Posts
Default

What is your engine number? M28- 9/10/11/or 12?
Old 06-21-2010, 01:07 AM
  #5  
Imo000
Captain Obvious
Super User
 
Imo000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 22,846
Received 339 Likes on 245 Posts
Default

Are you sure the original problem was the head gaskets and not something else?
Old 06-21-2010, 07:00 AM
  #6  
dan928
Intermediate
Thread Starter
 
dan928's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Haywards Heath UK
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

The engine number is M 28/12
It definitely had a blown head gasket as I done the work myself, but it may also have other problems that I'm not aware of. Engine was in a pretty rough condition when I got it and I'm trying to bring it back to life.
I changed the injectors, old ones being rusty and leaking after stopping the engine.
Checked the timing but didn't change the green wire (Is it the one coming out of the distributor?)
Will measure the fuel pressure but need to buy the test gauges first.
Old 06-21-2010, 08:18 AM
  #7  
Dave928S
Rennlist Member
 
Dave928S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 4,681
Received 64 Likes on 42 Posts
Default

Sounds like you're off to a good start and you're getting there.

Yes .. the green wire is the shielded green coloured signal wire coming from the distributor and going to the ignition unit. Expensive ... be sure it's had it before you replace.

Check you have good spark to each plug and coil is OK. Also check there's no light show in the dark under the hood, to do a basic check of all the leads and the cap.

Read up on the K Jetronic system and go hunting for problems after that. Here's a link to a K Jetronic videos thread posted recently which will help with the detective work.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ng-videos.html
Check your fuel pressures first and then go from there.

Check every single hose in the engine compartment and replace where necessary ... you can count on some being stuffed.

Does sound a bit like a K Jet system problem.

Eliminate possibilities one at a time and you'll get there.

Where are you located?
Old 06-21-2010, 10:08 AM
  #8  
dan928
Intermediate
Thread Starter
 
dan928's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Haywards Heath UK
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

Hi Dave, thanks for the link

I'm located in Worthing, UK

I've checked the leads and the cap, they seem ok but I'll change them anyway

I intend to look into WUR next but have to buy the fuel injection tester first.

Cheers,

Dan
Old 06-21-2010, 10:55 AM
  #9  
Dave928S
Rennlist Member
 
Dave928S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 4,681
Received 64 Likes on 42 Posts
Default

If I'd known you were from the UK with the steering wheel on the correct side of the car I would have referred to the 'bonnet' instead of the 'hood'

Even though my old original leads weren't breaking down a great deal, new ones gave the engine a new lease of life. I don't think you can go wrong getting some of those basics up to scratch first.

Roger has a pressure test kit with all the adapters you need for K Jet.
Old 06-21-2010, 02:27 PM
  #10  
kinda5150
Racer
 
kinda5150's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: mt juliet, tn
Posts: 312
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

i'm guessing fuel filter and/or strainer (can't remember if there's an in-tank strainer). replace/check the fuel lines--don't need another 928 going up in flames! if your injectors were that gummed up, then the whole fuel system delivery would be suspect.
Old 06-23-2010, 04:01 PM
  #11  
dan928
Intermediate
Thread Starter
 
dan928's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Haywards Heath UK
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

Still waiting for the injection tester but after reading some threads decided to have a look at the Auxiliary air valve.
Took it out, at about 25 Celsius is half opened. Connected it to 12v and it shuts but leaves a small opening about 2 or 3 mm square.Put it in the freezer and after 15 min still not completely open. I understand that it has to open and shut fully so I'll take it apart and adjust it.
Interesting part is that I checked the plug with ignition on (engine not started) and there's no 12V feed.
Checked the WUR plug and again, no power. It must be a bad connection or a relay or something?
Anyone can advice where to look next?
Cheers,
Dan
Old 06-25-2010, 10:26 PM
  #12  
smiffypr
Instructor
 
smiffypr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Dorset
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

AAV only affects one thing, the idle speed. It doesn't affect the mixture at idle or at any other speed.
Your problem sounds like lack of sufficient fuel. Have you checked the fuel flow rate yet? Check at the return to the top of the tank. This test covers the pump, and any restriction in the filter, the pipes, the gauze in the fuel distributor, and the pressure regulator in the fuel distributor. Fuel flow should be over a 1120cc in 30 seconds (with the engine running or the fuel pump relay bridged).
Old 06-26-2010, 02:53 AM
  #13  
Dave928S
Rennlist Member
 
Dave928S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 4,681
Received 64 Likes on 42 Posts
Default

Smiffy knows a LOT about 928's and is a wizard with problem solving, particularly on early K Jet cars .. you can't go wrong following his advice. He posted those YT videos that I linked to in my earlier post.
Old 06-27-2010, 03:46 AM
  #14  
dan928
Intermediate
Thread Starter
 
dan928's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Haywards Heath UK
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

Connected the AAV after adjusting it and also disconnected the bypass valve for air conditioning ( mine don't work).
I've noticed a good change in idle: at cold start it revs to about 1200 then goes down to normal as it warms up, which didn't happen before.
I'm still waiting for the pressure tester, as soon as it comes will follow Smiffy's advice.
I've looked for a k-jetronic specialist around me but no luck, and to be honest I prefer to do it myself, don't quite trust mechanics. I also ordered Watson's book from Amazon which I understand from other posts is very useful.
Cheers,
Dan
'82 Euro
Old 06-27-2010, 03:58 AM
  #15  
smiffypr
Instructor
 
smiffypr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Dorset
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

You don't need the gauges for the flow test, just a measuring jug and a bit of hose.
Smiffy


Quick Reply: 4.7 16v euro engine



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 08:32 PM.