lorenolson888

Hi All.

I parked my car along time ago cause of some metal in my oil. Have a short block ready to assemble. I have two kids and it is hard to get time to work on the car... but I have managed time some recently.

So I have the motor pretty much loose. steps have been

Drain all fluids.
Exhaust off
Intakes off
Radiator out
air pump out
PS pump loose
Remove engine mount bolts (8)
Remove cluth housing bolts (4)
Loosened and slide back the torque tube clamp
Popped the clutch release lever off the ball
Loosened the washer that

When I lift the engine the engine does raise. The clutch/bell housing moves up with the engine though it does start to separate a bit. The dowels between the bell hosing and engine are able to pull out/separate. I can jack it up to the point that the engine starts to clear the mounts. i.e. about 2 to 3 inches. At that point the block and clutch housing are touching at the top and at the bottom they are separated by about 0.5" so the front of the engine is tilting up. The larger starter ring gear is being hung up on the top of the clutch housing. The motor mount are not clearing buy enougn to move the engine forward. The clutch release lever is protruding though the top of the bell housing so it seems as though this will be an obstacle to moving the engine forward as well.

My questions.

Should I remove the clutch assembly? It seems like he right move. THE WSM does not say I need to do this because it is pre 87. But the WSM is vague on several points for removal of the 32 valve engines. The 86 is shown and the later cars are also shown. Removing the clutch remove two of my big obstacles the clutch release lever and the gear that seems to be hanging up. is there something easy I am missing?

I did not loosen the transmission mounts.. is this a problem? Why would I need to do this?

The 16V car instructions say to remove the motor mounts. Will this help in the case of the 86. Seems like it will be difficult to do this on mt car. I did it a while back but also had the crosmember down.

Thanks in advance,

Loren Olson

Mrmerlin

Loren you have to remove the clutch to get the engine out this will be an easier task with the bell housing separated from the engine as the the dowel pins will cause the flywheel to bind,
make sure to first put 3 bent wire " U"s on all 3 of the pins on the rearside of the Pressure plate prior to loosensing any of the PP bolts,
this will make installing the clutch pack easier and you will need to install the clutch prior to bolting the bell to the block or atleast have the block spaced about 1 in. away from the bell
forwards or the trans mounts disconnected and the TT/ trans pushed back so the flywheel will clear the dowel pins on the Intermediate plate
For the PS and ALT just unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the cassette to the front of the engine then tie with wire so the assembly wont fall down too far. Do the same for the AC compressor leave the lines attached.
Disconnect the wires from inside the car at the CE panel and feed them through the firewall, they can be removed with the engine you may have to remove the coolant bottle first just disconnect the bottle from the lower hard line leave the rubber hose attached to the bottom of the bottle

WallyP

Don't forget the infamous clamp on the wire harness under the engine...

lorenolson888

Hi Wally and Stan

Thanks for the comments.

On the wiring harness.... we removed the clamps for the starter etc. Have not got far enough to feed the wires back through from the central electric panel. Are there any other harne3ss isues that you can comment on?

I just read the clutch removal part... seems fairly doable. I will take a look. and see where I get stuck.

LO

Mrmerlin

you should also remove the starter.
I think that the harness that Wally is referring to is the one thats bolted to the top of the crossmember on the driverside of the car its a 10mm bolt, also there is another clamp in the center of the left timing cover where the wires come through
though i think that you can disconnect the wires that run across the front of the engine feed them through the timing cover and leave it in the car. The rear harness for the engine is the one that you can leave on the engine and push through the firewall

86'928S MeteorGrey

That 10mm bolt is a bitch. If it's not loosened, you will lift the car by wiring harness. I spoke many cursin words getting it out. When I reattach the clamp that the wiring harness goes through (attached with 10mm bolt) I swap out that clamp with a larger one that the harness can pass through without removal. Good luck with the pull...

lorenolson888

Hi All,

I am back from a business trip to Toronto and will take a look this weekend.

Loren

davek9

We here in the "D" have found that it is much easer to remove the Rear Harness from the engine, and placing it over the right fender (do not fish through the Firewall).

You are going to have to remove all the engine connection anyway, why do the extra work under the dash and messing w/the CE panel if you don’t have to.

Also I left the 14 Pin connector wire harness connected to the engine, just undo the Starter and Alternator connections and fish it through the Cross member wire loop.

The 14 Pin Wire harness is very brittle on the top and in the front of the engine, but underneath it is soft and very pliable.

Mine is going back in this weekend, good luck whichever way you choose.

Dave