Twitchy Tach
06-20-2010, 10:42 AM
#16
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06-20-2010, 10:52 AM
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
LOL. Actually, I did have a pretty sleepless night... But not due to the 928... Something I ate.
Will start working on this next weekend. Thanks again to all for the pointers and references.
Will start working on this next weekend. Thanks again to all for the pointers and references.
06-21-2010, 10:59 AM
#18
Reanimator
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Greg wrote:
Lots of mechanics take shortcuts on stuff that they assume won't be a problem for a while. Quality work is hard to find; most mechanics I've dealt with only do 'good enough' work, which means the torque wrench stays in the box and they go 'by feel'. Sure, in many cases a skilled experienced mechanic can get away with that, but I'd still like to have stuff done the right way. Example, I don't like finding loose wheel bearings on a Sunday night down the shore facing a long ride home, and having to pull the hub myself, in the dark, because somebody felt it was 'good enough'. I've also worked alongside people who would charge customers for work that was not done, and parts that were not replaced, because it didn't have to be done yet. The only way the customer would know is if they pulled the work at least partially apart themselves, which I'm sure very few people ever do (I'm an exception, I guess). Most shops only warantee work for 90 days, so as long as the work will last that long, the workers figure they're covered. Sad that's the state of the industry. But a lot of places work like that these days. No one gives a crap.
no mechanic is going to leave stuff loose that he is not going to get paid for to do a second time.
06-21-2010, 11:08 AM
#19
Supercharged
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I also have a '91 GT and I only get the bouncy tach when I really get on it and usually only north of 5k RPM. Car seems to run fine and my data logger doesn't seem to have any issues, so my guess is it has to be an issue between the LH/EZK and the cluster, or the tach itself. For me it's not a big deal.
Can you elaborate how he accomplished this? There isn't a switch that I know of, and all the aftermarket chips (including the Autothoirty chips have the rev limit at ~6500 RPM).
PO indicated that it started after he turned off the rev-limiter for a run, then turned it back on... (that made me a little nervous).
06-21-2010, 11:36 AM
#20
Rest in Peace
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So you pay some one to work on your car then you take it apart to see if it was done. 
I see a couple of problems with that, nobody is going to warranty any work that the customer has been fooling with and if you know enough to be able to take it apart and inspect a job why in the hell did you not do it yourself in the first place?
I see a couple of problems with that, nobody is going to warranty any work that the customer has been fooling with and if you know enough to be able to take it apart and inspect a job why in the hell did you not do it yourself in the first place?
Greg wrote:
Lots of mechanics take shortcuts on stuff that they assume won't be a problem for a while. Quality work is hard to find; most mechanics I've dealt with only do 'good enough' work, which means the torque wrench stays in the box and they go 'by feel'. Sure, in many cases a skilled experienced mechanic can get away with that, but I'd still like to have stuff done the right way. Example, I don't like finding loose wheel bearings on a Sunday night down the shore facing a long ride home, and having to pull the hub myself, in the dark, because somebody felt it was 'good enough'. I've also worked alongside people who would charge customers for work that was not done, and parts that were not replaced, because it didn't have to be done yet. The only way the customer would know is if they pulled the work at least partially apart themselves, which I'm sure very few people ever do (I'm an exception, I guess). Most shops only warantee work for 90 days, so as long as the work will last that long, the workers figure they're covered. Sad that's the state of the industry. But a lot of places work like that these days. No one gives a crap.
Lots of mechanics take shortcuts on stuff that they assume won't be a problem for a while. Quality work is hard to find; most mechanics I've dealt with only do 'good enough' work, which means the torque wrench stays in the box and they go 'by feel'. Sure, in many cases a skilled experienced mechanic can get away with that, but I'd still like to have stuff done the right way. Example, I don't like finding loose wheel bearings on a Sunday night down the shore facing a long ride home, and having to pull the hub myself, in the dark, because somebody felt it was 'good enough'. I've also worked alongside people who would charge customers for work that was not done, and parts that were not replaced, because it didn't have to be done yet. The only way the customer would know is if they pulled the work at least partially apart themselves, which I'm sure very few people ever do (I'm an exception, I guess). Most shops only warantee work for 90 days, so as long as the work will last that long, the workers figure they're covered. Sad that's the state of the industry. But a lot of places work like that these days. No one gives a crap.
06-22-2010, 12:11 AM
#21
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I also have a '91 GT and I only get the bouncy tach when I really get on it and usually only north of 5k RPM. Car seems to run fine and my data logger doesn't seem to have any issues, so my guess is it has to be an issue between the LH/EZK and the cluster, or the tach itself. For me it's not a big deal.
Can you elaborate how he accomplished this? There isn't a switch that I know of, and all the aftermarket chips (including the Autothoirty chips have the rev limit at ~6500 RPM).
Can you elaborate how he accomplished this? There isn't a switch that I know of, and all the aftermarket chips (including the Autothoirty chips have the rev limit at ~6500 RPM).
06-22-2010, 03:17 AM
#22
Three Wheelin'
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So you pay some one to work on your car then you take it apart to see if it was done.
I see a couple of problems with that, nobody is going to warranty any work that the customer has been fooling with and if you know enough to be able to take it apart and inspect a job why in the hell did you not do it yourself in the first place?
I see a couple of problems with that, nobody is going to warranty any work that the customer has been fooling with and if you know enough to be able to take it apart and inspect a job why in the hell did you not do it yourself in the first place?
You obviously take great pride in your work. You, sir, are an exception to the rule, and my posts are NOT aimed at a person like yourself.
The flex-PCB had to be removed to replace the light bulbs that light up the inside of the cluster, right? If I'm right, why would ALL of the terminal screws be completely backed out? The rest of the PCB was screwed in, but the actual screws connecting the PCB to the indicators were ALL backed out. I'm not sure how they didn't fall out of their holes. I find it very suspicious, and coupling that with knowledge of the PO's stupidity, I can see that those guys were setting themselves up for some easy cash. They fixed the problem of the light bulbs, so no warranty work required. Then they can just say "Hey, man, your gauges all just took a **** at the same time. It happens, man". And then they charge him another grand to unStrekStrekStrekStrek what they StrekStrekStrekStreked up. Pardon my French.
