Spring Compressors
#16
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Any Atlanta 928 folks need this done, bring then down and I will change them for you.
#17
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Just a thought while you're all talking of spring compressors (I hate them)
With the car on it's wheels undo the nut on top of each shock in turn then re-install the nut, not tight just engage all the threads on the nut. This way if any of the nuts are too stiff to undo you have the opportunity to use lots of force on a wrench or an impact gun or a nut splitter or a drill through the side of the nut to get the nut off with the spring safely compressed and contained by the weight of the car.
With the car on it's wheels undo the nut on top of each shock in turn then re-install the nut, not tight just engage all the threads on the nut. This way if any of the nuts are too stiff to undo you have the opportunity to use lots of force on a wrench or an impact gun or a nut splitter or a drill through the side of the nut to get the nut off with the spring safely compressed and contained by the weight of the car.
#18
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My Big Gripe about most of the threaded-rods-with-hooks compressors is that they depend too much on the rod to guide the hooks and keep them 'straight'. The rod is being bent, and it binds in the hooks as it is turned. This points to an dual advantage to units with Acme threads, square faced threads made for this duty. None of the bargain hook-style compressors I've seen really impress me with their strengths. There are obviously some better than others, but none I feel real comfortable using.
In the meanwhile, the one Rob has is adequate for most folks if they are carefull and cautious. Perfect for a group clinic arrangemnt or for a local enthusiasts' group to share too.
I can't stress enough the idea that there is a huge amount of stored energy retained by the compressors, and even a small failure of the compressor or carelessness/ignorance by the opearator can easily do a lot of damage. Up to and including death. Flesh and bones are no match for the forces involved. If you are only doing this once, invest in having a local pro do this part for you. Invest your time in waxing the shock tubes and the springs or something, and let the guys with the right tools and the right experience do the grunt work while you break for lunch.
In the meanwhile, the one Rob has is adequate for most folks if they are carefull and cautious. Perfect for a group clinic arrangemnt or for a local enthusiasts' group to share too.
I can't stress enough the idea that there is a huge amount of stored energy retained by the compressors, and even a small failure of the compressor or carelessness/ignorance by the opearator can easily do a lot of damage. Up to and including death. Flesh and bones are no match for the forces involved. If you are only doing this once, invest in having a local pro do this part for you. Invest your time in waxing the shock tubes and the springs or something, and let the guys with the right tools and the right experience do the grunt work while you break for lunch.
#19
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My Big Gripe about most of the threaded-rods-with-hooks compressors is that they depend too much on the rod to guide the hooks and keep them 'straight'. The rod is being bent, and it binds in the hooks as it is turned. This points to an dual advantage to units with Acme threads, square faced threads made for this duty. .....
They're intended for use on Macpherson strut type suspension where you can install the compressor while the spring is compressed by the weight of the car then remove the strut. This can't easily be done on the 928.
#20
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I have a set of the threaded rod things (marked Made in Germany), and have done the 928 and 2 other cars with them so far. I was always careful to ensure the things were facing away from me, and no other people were in any potential line of fire if something broke. It pays to keep the threads clean and well lubed to ease tightening. Threaded things under load can always be dangerous - I once had a a car jacked up at the side with a screw pillar jack, and as I was about ready to get under, the wife came out and said 'you are going to put a stand under that arent you?' .....and as I was about to open my mouth the jack nut stripped and the car sank to ground in about 1 second. The planned work was delayed for a trip to the tool shop...Now I have 4 stands, 2 trolley jacks, and no excuses.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
#21
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Stuff can go from great to AwChit in a milisecond.
I have a set of the threaded rod things (marked Made in Germany), and have done the 928 and 2 other cars with them so far. I was always careful to ensure the things were facing away from me, and no other people were in any potential line of fire if something broke. It pays to keep the threads clean and well lubed to ease tightening. Threaded things under load can always be dangerous - I once had a a car jacked up at the side with a screw pillar jack, and as I was about ready to get under, the wife came out and said 'you are going to put a stand under that arent you?' .....and as I was about to open my mouth the jack nut stripped and the car sank to ground in about 1 second. The planned work was delayed for a trip to the tool shop...Now I have 4 stands, 2 trolley jacks, and no excuses.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
#22
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Out of the low priced ones, these look as safe as any.
http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-647...=pd_sbs_auto_6
http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-647...=pd_sbs_auto_6