blown 87

I would do them for free for any of my regulars, but my regulars don't work on their own cars.

Any Atlanta 928 folks need this done, bring then down and I will change them for you.

jon928se

Just a thought while you're all talking of spring compressors (I hate them)

With the car on it's wheels undo the nut on top of each shock in turn then re-install the nut, not tight just engage all the threads on the nut. This way if any of the nuts are too stiff to undo you have the opportunity to use lots of force on a wrench or an impact gun or a nut splitter or a drill through the side of the nut to get the nut off with the spring safely compressed and contained by the weight of the car.

dr bob

My Big Gripe about most of the threaded-rods-with-hooks compressors is that they depend too much on the rod to guide the hooks and keep them 'straight'. The rod is being bent, and it binds in the hooks as it is turned. This points to an dual advantage to units with Acme threads, square faced threads made for this duty. None of the bargain hook-style compressors I've seen really impress me with their strengths. There are obviously some better than others, but none I feel real comfortable using.

In the meanwhile, the one Rob has is adequate for most folks if they are carefull and cautious. Perfect for a group clinic arrangemnt or for a local enthusiasts' group to share too.

I can't stress enough the idea that there is a huge amount of stored energy retained by the compressors, and even a small failure of the compressor or carelessness/ignorance by the opearator can easily do a lot of damage. Up to and including death. Flesh and bones are no match for the forces involved. If you are only doing this once, invest in having a local pro do this part for you. Invest your time in waxing the shock tubes and the springs or something, and let the guys with the right tools and the right experience do the grunt work while you break for lunch.

jon928se

Good point Dr Bob. Most of the cheap spring compressors with conventional screw threads aren't actually intended to "COMPRESS" the spring, just keep it compressed - the screw thread just being for adjusting the hooks to fit the spring..

They're intended for use on Macpherson strut type suspension where you can install the compressor while the spring is compressed by the weight of the car then remove the strut. This can't easily be done on the 928.

jpitman2

I have a set of the threaded rod things (marked Made in Germany), and have done the 928 and 2 other cars with them so far. I was always careful to ensure the things were facing away from me, and no other people were in any potential line of fire if something broke. It pays to keep the threads clean and well lubed to ease tightening. Threaded things under load can always be dangerous - I once had a a car jacked up at the side with a screw pillar jack, and as I was about ready to get under, the wife came out and said 'you are going to put a stand under that arent you?' .....and as I was about to open my mouth the jack nut stripped and the car sank to ground in about 1 second. The planned work was delayed for a trip to the tool shop...Now I have 4 stands, 2 trolley jacks, and no excuses.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k

blown 87

Stuff can go from great to AwChit in a milisecond.

Bill Ball

I have used Lisle's brand of this compressor and it has worked well on over a dozen cars using power tools. The rods are not the thin, fine-thread type in the flimsy HF ones and do not bend or bind. Technically these are not to be used on coilovers, but the clamps are strong and the compressor will not slip if tightened properly. These are much safer than the HF ones or the OTC ones that do not have very secure safety hooks. BUT none of these cheaper compressors will work for springs heavier than stock. The brackets and rods of the Powerbuilt/Lisle ones will bend with anything over 5-600 lb springs.