Radiator Drain Plug / Drain Cock
06-17-2010, 06:37 PM
#31
Drifting
Thread Starter
I have a couple suspicions:
1. Maybe just air in system that needs time to come out
2. I suspect the old fill may have had wetter in it. That was done during TB / WP change by my mechanic. He is good and it is possible he added wetter. I did not, but I can.
3. I may need to replace T-Stat and related gaskets. They were about 1 year old, so I kept old ones, but its possible the simple act of removing the t-stat and gaskets for service fouled things up in some way..
1. Maybe just air in system that needs time to come out
2. I suspect the old fill may have had wetter in it. That was done during TB / WP change by my mechanic. He is good and it is possible he added wetter. I did not, but I can.
3. I may need to replace T-Stat and related gaskets. They were about 1 year old, so I kept old ones, but its possible the simple act of removing the t-stat and gaskets for service fouled things up in some way..
06-17-2010, 08:14 PM
#32
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Ken--
The original thermostat has a bleed port on it with a little metal dog-bone 'valve' passing through the port. Purpose is to push any air that accumulates in the top of the thermo housing through so it ultimately ends up at the top of the coolant reservoir. Some replacemnt thermostats don't have them, and some folks aren't aware that they need to be at the top when th ethermostat is installed. In either case, a few driving cycles with the thermostat open will purge any remaining air from the bridge.
Water Wetter is good for about 15º of coolant themp reduction on the hottest days. Worth it in IMHO, especially with the light coolant load I use at 25-30% in distilled water for the extra water pump seal lubrication.
The original thermostat has a bleed port on it with a little metal dog-bone 'valve' passing through the port. Purpose is to push any air that accumulates in the top of the thermo housing through so it ultimately ends up at the top of the coolant reservoir. Some replacemnt thermostats don't have them, and some folks aren't aware that they need to be at the top when th ethermostat is installed. In either case, a few driving cycles with the thermostat open will purge any remaining air from the bridge.
Water Wetter is good for about 15º of coolant themp reduction on the hottest days. Worth it in IMHO, especially with the light coolant load I use at 25-30% in distilled water for the extra water pump seal lubrication.
06-18-2010, 11:42 AM
#33
Drifting
Thread Starter
Stimpy you IDIOT!!!!
I had put in the large gasket BEFORE the Thermostat, instead of the thermostat, then the gasket.
Swapped it around and everything is now back to perfect. I did go ahead and add wetter, since I had already bought it. May help cooling performance in coming months and won't hurt...
I had put in the large gasket BEFORE the Thermostat, instead of the thermostat, then the gasket.
Swapped it around and everything is now back to perfect. I did go ahead and add wetter, since I had already bought it. May help cooling performance in coming months and won't hurt...
06-18-2010, 12:30 PM
#34
Rest in Peace
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We drill a small hole (maybe .015") in the ones that do not have that.
Even some from the dealers do not have them on some cars.
+1 on the Water Wetter
Even some from the dealers do not have them on some cars.
+1 on the Water Wetter
Ken--
The original thermostat has a bleed port on it with a little metal dog-bone 'valve' passing through the port. Purpose is to push any air that accumulates in the top of the thermo housing through so it ultimately ends up at the top of the coolant reservoir. Some replacemnt thermostats don't have them, and some folks aren't aware that they need to be at the top when th ethermostat is installed. In either case, a few driving cycles with the thermostat open will purge any remaining air from the bridge.
Water Wetter is good for about 15º of coolant themp reduction on the hottest days. Worth it in IMHO, especially with the light coolant load I use at 25-30% in distilled water for the extra water pump seal lubrication.
The original thermostat has a bleed port on it with a little metal dog-bone 'valve' passing through the port. Purpose is to push any air that accumulates in the top of the thermo housing through so it ultimately ends up at the top of the coolant reservoir. Some replacemnt thermostats don't have them, and some folks aren't aware that they need to be at the top when th ethermostat is installed. In either case, a few driving cycles with the thermostat open will purge any remaining air from the bridge.
Water Wetter is good for about 15º of coolant themp reduction on the hottest days. Worth it in IMHO, especially with the light coolant load I use at 25-30% in distilled water for the extra water pump seal lubrication.
