Marine Blue

So I'm planning on repainting the door lock surrounds in the next few weeks and noted that many here use SEM paint but after some searching I noted that there are several types and finishes. Can somone take a look at their can and tell me which part number they're using?

I also need to source a double sided tape to reattach the rub strips in a few spots. Right now 80% of the trim is attached but there are a few areas where it has pulled away. I want to slide the tape into these areas to reaffix them. Everything I've found in the local auto stores are foam with a thickness to them and I wasn't sure if they would work correctly. Any suggestions on what I should use?

Any help or insight is appreciated.

Thanks!

Rob Edwards

#1: SEM self etching primer black # 39673, then Trim Black # 39143


#2: I think Stan has suggested 3M 06382 "Automotive Acrylic Plus" tape in the past for the body side moulding.

My lower body side cladding is starting to separate, enough that I can see the adhesive pieces- they look wider than the 06382, which is 1/2" tape. Maybe I'm only seeing the top strip....

Marine Blue

Thank you Rob, very much appreciated!



I did note the other thread on the window trim BTW, just wasn't certain if they're the same since the materials of construction are different.

Rob Edwards

I'm confused by window trims. Are all the windshield/door/rear quarter/hatch trims all anodized? Are they all aluminum? I could swear I recall someone saying the rear quarter trims are plastic, but they sure feel like aluminum. I bought a pair of the C-shaped door window trims, and they're metal. While it'd be nice to pull all the window trims off and replicate the factory anodizing in the name of doing it 'right', I am really not in the mood to deal with bending/breaking the window trims during an R&R, especially the C-shaped bits and their rivets at the front edge of the door windows.


I need to re-do all the trims and the door locks on the GT and am planning to tape off the entire car and shoot all of them with self etching primer and trim black, following Dr Bob's recipe (post #4) :

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ndow-trim.html

Calgary Ole

I had removed the small rear rubstrip to repair a dent this past winter. The rubstrip has about a 1/2" profile on the back to allow the tape to be flush when re-installing. I had to scrape away the old adhesive to get the new tape inset enough.

dr bob

In my limited experience, shopping for products like the trim tape is best done at a pro paint and body supply store. The sales folks tend to be more up-to-date on the latest products, and the stuff they sell is likely neewer than that dusty old box of dried tape from the vaults at the O'Really store.

Marine Blue

My rear quarter window trim is also slightly faded and it's on the list of items to be replaced. The reason I think it's not painted is because it does darken and respond to certain vinyl dressings. Maybe a plastic or vinyl coating.

Thank you for the tip, that definitely makes sense.

Randy V

Coincidentally, just this morning I was researching panel tapes for installing windows on my boat.

Here ya go:

http://www.bindingsource.com/pdf/VHB...ctionGuide.pdf

I suggest one of the conformal foam tapes in a 24-45 mil thickness for your application.

BRB-83-911SC

Afshin - I have my passenger door rubstrip off at the moment, and plan to re-install it before the Sunday lawn event at Larz. I sourced the 3M 06382 tape from Automotive Tools Online (http://www.automotivetoolsonline.com...82_p_9951.html) for $23.99/20 yard roll. We'll see how it comes out.

Seems like it would be quite difficult to properly re-attach just a section and get a flush fit without removing the whole strip to remove all of the old foam residue.

Marine Blue

Thanks Randy.

Brian I'll make it a point to take a look at your results on Sunday. Would also be great to get your feedback after you've completed installation. You'll see on Sunday that most of my rub strip is still attached, it's just two areas on the drivers side that are no longer attached. I agree that it won't be easy while installed but I'm nervous about pulling it off and damaging the paint.

Mrmerlin

FWI the 3M tapes can be bought in different widths and thicknesses the 928 uses a thicker tape than the auto store bought stuff so a trip the body store to spec out the correct tape is essential.
The other option is to order some tape from the Dealer this will be the correct stuff, if you use the thinner tape the side moldings may fall off due to not as much contact area to the door/fender surface BTDT

Marine Blue

Sounds like my approach will not work.

My initial thought was to do the following.

1. Measure rub strip width
2. Remove enough protective paper to match the width of the rub strip somewhere in the middle of a 12" Piece so I can slide it through and down.
3. Let the one side adhere to the rub strip and then use a utility knife to carefully cut at the top and bottom.
4. Remove the other protective paper and press.

If the rub strip is notched in back this won't work since only the top and bottom will contact the adhesive. Maybe I can build a secondary layer at the center before I apply it?

Marine Blue

Brian can you post a picture of the back side of the rub strip?

BRB-83-911SC

From what I can tell, the tape sits inside the recessed area, with the top and bottom of the strip having no adhesive. The thickness of the foam tap equals the recess depth, so that the top and bottom of the strip sits flush to the body. I'll take some pics of the backside of my rubstip off the car.

BRB-83-911SC

ha, simultaneous posts....will get a pic up tonight.